Topic: Sound System and Speakers. Chime in!

[Tr00b]

I saw a real nice Jeep sub box in the back of the jeep many years ago... They used a house outlet on the box and  hooked an old lamp cord up to the sub amp... when they needed to take the sub box out of the back, they simply unplugged it and carried it out, like unplugging a lamp. It was nicely carpeted and had handles. If you had time and some ingenuity, I bet you could make a quick disconnect harness (using say a 7 way trailer harness) for an amplifer to be mounted to the box too where that part of the stereo mess dissappears as well.

The bad part about sub boxes is, they take up space and they are a PAIN to hook back up. If that "pain" is reduced, when you can spare the space you can have a sub, its not a big deal to take it out/put it in.

[chrisfranklin]

Besides the space issue, the only way I could run a sub with this JVC KD-X50BT receiver and an amplifier is if I powered the front pair of speaker and the sub through the amplifier without powering any rear speakers. 

You can either do front speakers and a sub or front and rear speakers and no sub with this head unit, based on the connections it offers.  This was an issue raised by a buyer in the Crutchfield forums;  a Crutchfield forum manager said Crutchfield is going to emphasize this point in the Kd-X50BT listings now.

But frankly I was only looking to run front and "rear" speakers anyway -- just with the addition of an amp.  But, not in love with my rear or overhead speaker mounting options...Don't want anything in the doors to dent, don't want a couple of speakers on the tunnel under the dash -- I'll dent those too, gets in way of air flow, AC install probably    Lousy options.  PITA PITA

 

[Mozman68]

Chris...I think you have read my build thread. My Tuffy console was designed to House the standard Jeep sub (which I didn't have anyway...8"?) but I threw a Sony Xplod 10" in there anyway.

That was ok with my original Alpine head unit, but it wasn't until I added the Alpine amplifier (under my rear seat) and upgraded both front (dash w/adapters) and rear (sound bar) speakers to the 6.25"? That I had what I consider pretty decent sound.

About the only time I don't hear the stereo as well as I would like is when I'm doing 70 mph with the doors off and safari top on....and that's probably because I'm afraid to turn it up too loud and damage something. I can still hear it, just not as well depending on the wind.

[chrisfranklin]

Chris...I think you have read my build thread. My Tuffy console was designed to House the standard Jeep sub (which I didn't have anyway...8"?) but I threw a Sony Xplod 10" in there anyway.

That was ok with my original Alpine head unit, but it wasn't until I added the Alpine amplifier (under my rear seat) and upgraded both front (dash w/adapters) and rear (sound bar) speakers to the 6.25"? That I had what I consider pretty decent sound.

About the only time I don't hear the stereo as well as I would like is when I'm doing 70 mph with the doors off and safari top on....and that's probably because I'm afraid to turn it up too loud and damage something. I can still hear it, just not as well depending on the wind.

Must have missed the part about the amplifier for the speakers, Moz.    You talking damage in terms of damage to hearing ability maybe? 

[jfrabat]

Must have missed the part about the amplifier for the speakers, Moz.    You talking damage in terms of damage to hearing ability maybe? 

I think he refers to blowing out the speakers from too much power.

[Jeffy]

I think he refers to blowing out the speakers from too much power.

That shouldn't be a problem as long as your peak wattage is less then the speakers.

Still with no top and doors, you might as well be wearing headphones.  Even the crappiest headphones would sound better.  Although wearing headphones is illegal in some states.  I shake my head at the HD riders who have a stereo blaring while riding with straight pipes.

[chrisfranklin]

With the windows zipped up on my old Sail Cloth top, interior noise isn't terrible.  The top prop I picked up last year helps a bit with highway top noise, also. 

Could see running 4 speakers (dash 4x6s, pair of 6x9s) through an amp, no sub and probably getting by ok provided the top was on, doors on, windows up.   But, yeah, in terms of blocking highway noise interference to the ears, some "prize" headphones out of a Lucky Charms box would still probably do way better than any kind of amplified speaker setup.   

Do see the merits of a hard-top and AC kit if you want audio quality and temps are up there. 

[chrisfranklin]

Have been messing around with the Spotify premium service -- fidelity with tracks is seemingly a bit better than Pandora.  It has me seriously thinking: ah what the heck, buy a couple of tuffy boxes, a pair of 6x9s and a 4 channel amp. 

The amp would need a direct connection to the battery.  Am probably getting an electric fan on there before too long.  And then I already have a lot connected to my Yellow Top as is...

[chrisfranklin]

I've got the winch mounted and it's wired up.  Have a wired Warn remote.  Winch sounds like it's running ok, but haven't operated it under any kind of load as yet (read the vinyl Warn covers were allegedly good at keeping rain out, but tended to trap moisture on the inside -- the vinyl winch cover doesn't "breath" like a good car cover.  So, got the neoprene cover; it doesn't do much to block external moisture, but does breath some and presumably blocks UV.



Was planning to install a MKVIII electric fan -- it'll be looking to connect directly to the battery, I guess.  If I get a 4 channel amp, that's apparently going to have to be wired to the battery also.  

Do have a 210 amp alternator installed.  Haven't searched around on this question: What's the point where you install a second battery?

Daytime on-road driving, I'd expect the electric fan and amp to draw power.  Nighttime it could be electric fan, amp, and headlights...
 

[Jeffy]

Keep an eye on the neoprene, it's going to fade and dry-rot if you don't take care of it.  So clean it and use UV protectant.  You live in CA so moisture isn't a big deal.

You might also want to rotate all the the cables on the side post +12v so they're not stretched.  The one red is at 12 and should be at 9-6 so it's not stretching the insulation.  The main ground on top looks like it could be repositioned in the clamp as well.  Is that Scotch Tape?  Go to a hardware store and buy some electrical tape.  Or better yet, buy some shrink tubing.  You can slip it over the connector and add heat and it will shrink over the cable making it look professional.

As for the battery, I doubt you'll have any problems with your current setup.  As long as your engine runs the alternator will keep up.

[chrisfranklin]

That's actually "clear" Rescue Tape silicone tape.  Had a partially used roll sitting around from something else.   Will probably do some kind of shrink tubing when I get the chance.  Will see about re-positioning the cables.

[sharpxmen]

depending on what the current drawn by the winch is 1 battery won't supply that current for a long time, even with the big alternator 2 batteries will provide that for a longer time (unless the current drawn by the winch is lower than the alternator output). And there's the odd case in which you can't run the motor when winching (on the side, tilted forward, etc when for example your oil pump is dry and you have no pressure) so that would shorten the time as well not to mention possibly draining it). but, with the 210Amp alternator (unless that's a typo) you're better than all (or mostly all) in that department.

[chrisfranklin]

Have been messing around with the Spotify premium service -- fidelity with tracks is seemingly a bit better than Pandora.  It has me seriously thinking: ah what the heck, buy a couple of tuffy boxes, a pair of 6x9s and a 4 channel amp. 

The amp would need a direct connection to the battery.  Am probably getting an electric fan on there before too long.  And then I already have a lot connected to my Yellow Top as is...

Haven't picked up an amp, other speakers yet. 

Will say that, once you get it sorted out, the little $100 JVC bluetooth receiver + a late model Android/IPhone (even Blackberry) is pretty great. 

Using a service like Spotify where you can download/delete your selection of tracks to your phone for $10 a month is outstanding (imho); audio fidelity with Spotify comes across to me as better than what I was getting with Sirius when I had that going. 

Couple of things my Android phone needed, though:

-App that let the Spotify menu screen rotate to landscape  (thing was stuck in portrait; sideways music selecting was getting old).  Went with "Smart Rotator."
-App that reconnects Bluetooth automatically.  Went with "Bluetooth Reconnector."