Topic: tranny questions

[Bounty Hunter]

You won't need a transfer case drop for any lift up to about 2.5".

You can install a full-length add-a-leaf (always make mine out of spare YJ front springs).  It'll lift 1.5" without stiffening the ride.  I usually cut the eyes off two extra front spring packs and add the top two leaves of each pack, one in each stock leaf pack all the way around.

Good luck fitting 31"s with no lift, especially with a plow.  Consider adding TJ fender flares if you want some good extra tire clearance.

[jackhammer]

Thats not a bad Idea. So the top 2 leafs from the front added directly under the top leaf all the way around. Now you got me thinking. That would save some dough. I would need a torch though wouldnt I.  Is there a tech page here for add a leaf.  I was looking rubicon express add a leaf w/shocks for around 300. I was planning on a greasable 1"shackle lift as well.  With 1.5 from add a leaf and 1 from shackle you still dont think I'll get 31's.  I wanted to do the trnasfer drop kit b/c added strain on ujoints when pushing snow.

[Bounty Hunter]

You should clear 31" with the AAL and shackles.  You only add one leaf per pack, using the two 2 leaves from 2 front spring packs as donors.

You don't need a torch, I used a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder to open the tops of my spring clamps.  You can use heat and bend them open and closed, but I went the easy route.  4 new spring center pins and that's about it, easy to do with the main leaf never coming off the jeep.

[Jeffy]

Problem with just cutting the clamps off is that the leafs will tend to wear and are more prone to bending.  Not to mention feathering.  You'd be better off heating up the clamps and bending them open a bit.

If you're going to buy AAL's you want full length leafs and not the short leafs.  The short ones tend to be very stuff while the long leafs are softer.

[Bounty Hunter]

I cut the tops off of my clamps, so the sides are still .25" to .5" above the top leaf.  This prevents the leaves from fanning out, and I don't know how they could possibly bend sooner due to this.

[Jeffy]

I cut the tops off of my clamps, so the sides are still .25" to .5" above the top leaf.  This prevents the leaves from fanning out, and I don't know how they could possibly bend sooner due to this.

Well, he probably won't see it happening, but when articulating the suspension the clamps keep the leafs working together.  If there is no clamp you can stretch the leaf pack so the main leaf is the only leaf supporting the axle.  This works the main leaf more then the others and weakens the main leaf faster.  Stretch it out and hit something sold hard enough and it will break.  In any case, it causes the whole leaf pack to sag prematurely if it doesn't break.  Most of the leafs I've seem only get a season or two out of the modified stock leafs.