Author Topic: fuel filter swap  (Read 16608 times)

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Offline sharpxmen

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Re: fuel filter swap
« Reply #90 on: July 06, 2011, 02:22:15 AM »
I'm going to guess it's a reinforced composite and not cork.  If you really don't trust the work done to the engine, pull it apart and assemble it yourself.

what's interesting is that they do swell where not pressed between the head and block (if it sticks out a bit), however that doesn't happen in 10 miles of driving
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
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bammerman

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Re: fuel filter swap
« Reply #91 on: July 06, 2011, 08:55:59 AM »
I will let you guys know what my new mechanic says if he comes over today to check oil pressure.

bammerman

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Re: fuel filter swap
« Reply #92 on: July 06, 2011, 07:46:00 PM »
What is the chance... no remember not so engine smart, that the gear lube (crank or cam forget which one) we used a black type of lube to put them in or the lifters?  There are no bubbles and it doesn't look like it is taking on water.  It can't be radiator fluid.  Mech coming tomorrow so I will know more, but talked to a buddy who rebuilds old ass cars and he offered up that idea.

Offline Jeffy

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Re: fuel filter swap
« Reply #93 on: July 06, 2011, 08:08:08 PM »
What is the chance... no remember not so engine smart, that the gear lube (crank or cam forget which one) we used a black type of lube to put them in or the lifters?  There are no bubbles and it doesn't look like it is taking on water.  It can't be radiator fluid.  Mech coming tomorrow so I will know more, but talked to a buddy who rebuilds old ass cars and he offered up that idea.
The Mechanic can pressure test the coolant system and compression test the cylinders.
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bammerman

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Re: fuel filter swap
« Reply #94 on: July 07, 2011, 07:34:06 PM »
my mech did test and oil pressure is @ 8 when idle and 16 at 3k rpm's, have to dig thru the book to see what the stock pressure is for the 4.0L for him, but my guess oil pump bad.  He looked at the head and says he will need to do a test to be 100% but looks ok visually.

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: fuel filter swap
« Reply #95 on: July 07, 2011, 09:09:06 PM »
my mech did test and oil pressure is  (at)  8 when idle and 16 at 3k rpm's, have to dig thru the book to see what the stock pressure is for the 4.0L for him, but my guess oil pump bad.  He looked at the head and says he will need to do a test to be 100% but looks ok visually.

take it back to the mechanic who did the rebuild, 10 miles in and you have 8psi at idle and 16 when you should have over 50 it's obviously a rebuild issue.

oh, you can't tell visually if the head is ok without taking it off, neither can you tell if the head gasket is ok.

if what you said before is correct (that the head gasket looks 1/4'' thick) i am going to guess that the engine was not rebuilt unless you saw it being taken apart and put back together, that is not happening in that much driving, it takes some time for the gasket to swell like that.
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

bammerman

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Re: fuel filter swap
« Reply #96 on: July 08, 2011, 08:48:54 AM »
Sorry, we were looking for visible leaks from the head.  We couldn't find them. I watched it being taken apart and put back together.  I do not remember them replacing the oil pump during the build.  I guess the reason that the gasket looks like wood is because there is some copper substance painted on it for it to stay in the correct spot and help seal.

Original mech in Nevada I had to trailer it here to CO when I moved.  Wish I could see him again would put a boot in his ass for costing me so much damn money (could have done this easier with carb V8)

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: fuel filter swap
« Reply #97 on: July 08, 2011, 10:34:34 AM »
so what was done to the motor? bearings, crank?

not sure why they put that much copper rtv on the gasket, shouldn't be any if you're asking me.
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

bammerman

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Re: fuel filter swap
« Reply #98 on: July 08, 2011, 11:33:49 AM »
I basically took a old running motor.  Had the head decked, machined.  10 over on the crank.  New everything else.  Block, and valve cover only original thing not touched (just cleaned). Once I get the specs for the idle oil pressure we are going to try to narrow down what could be causing the issue. 

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: fuel filter swap
« Reply #99 on: July 08, 2011, 11:36:37 AM »
I basically took a old running motor.  Had the head decked, machined.  10 over on the crank.  New everything else.  Block, and valve cover only original thing not touched (just cleaned). Once I get the specs for the idle oil pressure we are going to try to narrow down what could be causing the issue. 

i think it's 20 or 25 psi min at idle and something like 50 revved up.
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

bammerman

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Re: fuel filter swap
« Reply #100 on: July 08, 2011, 11:56:28 AM »
Got this off alldata, sound right
-----------------------------------
At Low Speed (600 rpm)    89.6 kPa (13 psi)
At 1600 rpm and Higher    255-517 kPa (37-75 psi)
Oil Pressure Relief    517 kPa (75 psi)

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: fuel filter swap
« Reply #101 on: July 08, 2011, 02:25:51 PM »
Got this off alldata, sound right
-----------------------------------
At Low Speed (600 rpm)    89.6 kPa (13 psi)
At 1600 rpm and Higher    255-517 kPa (37-75 psi)
Oil Pressure Relief    517 kPa (75 psi)

sounds right but that would be minimum acceptable, for a freshly rebuilt should be way better.
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

bammerman

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Re: fuel filter swap
« Reply #102 on: July 09, 2011, 05:35:10 PM »
Well ya learn something new everyday.  I have doe a few oil pan gasket swaps in my day and just found out your suppose to torque the bolts.  I have never once done that. 

Offline grumpygy

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Re: fuel filter swap
« Reply #103 on: July 09, 2011, 08:55:49 PM »
Really watch what you use its probably Inch Pounds not Foot Pounds.



Quote
The oil pan has two different fasteners, each having their own torque values: 1/4-inch bolts and 5/16-inch bolts. The 1/4-inch bolts require 85 inch-pounds of torque and the 5/16-inch bolts require 11 foot-pounds. These values apply for both the 2.5 and 4.0 liter engines.



« Last Edit: July 09, 2011, 08:59:58 PM by grumpygy »
94 YJ, Cool Air intake, 19lb Inj, 4.0 Throttlebody with spacer,  31/10.50/15's

bammerman

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Re: fuel filter swap
« Reply #104 on: July 10, 2011, 12:08:18 PM »
The oil pump looks brand new, the strainer doesn't though looks really rought.  Could that cause no oil pressure?  here is a picture of the brand new one I bought and the one in the engine.

The one in the engine has a number stamp of 348 where as the new one has a 239.  Could it have been the wrong pump from the start?

*UPDATE, they both say M-81A so my guess is it is the right one. just a different brand
« Last Edit: July 10, 2011, 12:17:05 PM by bammerman »