Topic: hp 44 swap

[drunkencityworker]

95 yj 5.2l 46rh 231 v8 internals super short sye. Rear stretch 2inch.
Rear axle 3.73 8.8lsd disc.
Front axle chromo in and out locrite hp 30. 3.73.
4.5inch sua 1inch bl.
35x12.5x15 good year mtr w kevlar.

Ok so i am getting a f250 hp44 from late 70s era cut down to either waggy or tj rubi length on the inners. Outers will be chevy withchevy spindle,knuckle,caliper barket and ford rotor hub and lockout.

I plan on keeping my rig sua. Will the high steer arms work in sua. Will my drop pitman arm work or will it be too long and force the tie rod and drag link to hit?
Has anyone else run hp44 in sua configuration and other thing to look out for or plan ahead for?
Rear axle is getting moser chromo stock replacements except drilled for 5
X5.5 pattern.
Picked up set of cj wagon wheels and diybeadlock.com beads should be in the mail.
Also plan on getting grand marqui master and an adjustabl prop valve to help handle the stopping issues.

Any and all advice helpfull. Thanka.

[sharpxmen]

isn't the grand marquis larger diameter? (can't remember but i think i saw this somewhere before). if yes it won't give you improved braking, will displace more volume so if your issue is pedal having too much travel then this will reduce the travel at the expense of clamping force. Just a heads-up.

[drunkencityworker]

From what i remember is bolt on yo yj and pushes more fluig. Do u have link to anuthing different

[FourbangerYJ]

95 yj 5.2l 46rh 231 v8 internals super short sye. Rear stretch 2inch.
Rear axle 3.73 8.8lsd disc.
Front axle chromo in and out locrite hp 30. 3.73.
4.5inch sua 1inch bl.
35x12.5x15 good year mtr w kevlar.

Ok so i am getting a f250 hp44 from late 70s era cut down to either waggy or tj rubi length on the inners. Outers will be chevy withchevy spindle,knuckle,caliper barket and ford rotor hub and lockout.

I plan on keeping my rig sua. Will the high steer arms work in sua. Will my drop pitman arm work or will it be too long and force the tie rod and drag link to hit?
Has anyone else run hp44 in sua configuration and other thing to look out for or plan ahead for?
Rear axle is getting moser chromo stock replacements except drilled for 5
X5.5 pattern.
Picked up set of cj wagon wheels and diybeadlock.com beads should be in the mail.
Also plan on getting grand marqui master and an adjustabl prop valve to help handle the stopping issues.

Any and all advice helpfull. Thanka.

Hi steer should work SUA, but it's really not needed. I don't know what pitman arm I am running. I think it's off a Ford. It does not have much of a drop, maybe 2 inches or so. It just touches the tierod at full stuff. I think a drop arm will be to much. Maybe a stock YJ or TJ arm would work.

[sharpxmen]

From what i remember is bolt on yo yj and pushes more fluig. Do u have link to anuthing different

more fluid (bigger diameter) means less clamping force at the wheels (or more force at the pedal required for same braking force at the wheels) - there was a guy on here that did the swap and confirmed this (there was a thread in which i posted, can't remember the OP nickname). Works beter if you get a hydraulic booster (more braking force) and want less pedal travel. So depends on what you're after, think about the hydraulic jacks, the little cylinder feeds the big one, quick lift jacks have a larger feed cylinder (or 2 of them) but the handle is way longer to compesate - same difference with the braking.

[drunkencityworker]

Is there a booster swap from another vehicle that works or just aftermarket...what do the guys running giant one ton brakes run?

[Jeffy]

Is there a booster swap from another vehicle that works or just aftermarket...what do the guys running giant one ton brakes run?

If you're running larger brakes like from a 3/4T ot 1T then the larger booster will help.

I'd probably go with a E/F350 Master.

[sharpxmen]

Is there a booster swap from another vehicle that works or just aftermarket...what do the guys running giant one ton brakes run?

the '95.5 YJ has the dual diaphragm booster that was on the TJ so that would be one upgrade.

if you have bigger brakes (larger diameter rotors and/or larger pistons in calipers) you can go with bigger diameter master cylinder:

larger rotors means more stopping power - if the caliper diameter is the same i would keep the same master cylinder
larger diameter pistons in the calipers - this means you get better ratio between master cyl and caliper pistons so more stopping power, downside is more travel so in that case a larger diam master might be needed, if your new ratio is better than the old one you get better stopping power

(new_brake_rotor_diam*new_piston_caliper_diam)/new_master_Cyl_diam the result should be bigger than the same calculation for the stock dimensions and you get better braking (keeping the same booster in this example).

i can go into more detail if you want me to.

[drunkencityworker]

I am going to run 78-79 ford f150 rotor with common chevy dana 44 k5 calipers. I have the rotor at home on my 79f150 hp44 at home i picked up cheap for spare parts. And they definitley are larger then the dana 30.

When i get a desent amount of off camber offroad i loose all brake pressure. Goes straight to the floor. This is with my current set up . Stock master,stock prop and front brakes for 95yj and 97 8.8 with disc. Is this common. I know someone that changed master and prop and it went away.

[sharpxmen]

sounds like an issue with the master cyl. Is it possible you get air in it at that point, what's the brake fluid level?

[drunkencityworker]

Level always top off night before a run

[sharpxmen]

dunno the diameter of the piston on those calipers but the larger master might solve your pedal travel problem (if that's the reason and not a bad m/c). do you have that issue when levelled and presing hard on the brake pedal?

[drunkencityworker]

When level or on street its fine. Only when way offcamber. Another friends does it too and he has 8.8 as well. Goes to floor like brakes arnt even there

[sharpxmen]

When level or on street its fine. Only when way offcamber. Another friends does it too and he has 8.8 as well. Goes to floor like brakes arnt even there

might want to look for a master with individual reservoirs, can't think of any other reason though other than maybe the master on it's way out (but that would mean you'd get that levelled at some point as well).

[aw12345]

Here is something to think of, if there is a fair amount of side play on the c clip axles it could push the caliper piston back on the 8.8 axle then you need a lot of fluid to push the piston back out to the point where it clamps the brake pads again.
If that is the case a master cylinder with larger pistons would help mask the problem