Topic: axle throwdown. super35, 8.8, d44

[stan98tj]

When i come home in Oct, it's finally going to be time for the regear and axle upgrade. Money won't be much of a concern (though id like to keep this under 4k) and im still tryin to decide between going 4.56 or 4.10 (3spd auto and 33s).
THe guy im talking to about regearing has a super35 he built wiht 4.56 gears, ARB locker, welded tubes. 5yrs old and can be had for a reasonable price. He's offered it to me in the past and i dont remember the exact price but i recall thinking it was cheap. I on the other hand was planning to lock my front with an e-locker and keep the rear open but have a dana 44 or an 8.8 back there. THe super 35 sounds tempting but ive read guys on here stating that its just an overpriced turd.
Thoughts? Is it going to be as strong as a 44 or 8.8? With the 4cyl, will i need something as strong as an 8.8 if im never going to go over 33s?

[sharpxmen]

When i come home in Oct, it's finally going to be time for the regear and axle upgrade. Money won't be much of a concern (though id like to keep this under 4k) and im still tryin to decide between going 4.56 or 4.10 (3spd auto and 33s).
THe guy im talking to about regearing has a super35 he built wiht 4.56 gears, ARB locker, welded tubes. 5yrs old and can be had for a reasonable price. He's offered it to me in the past and i dont remember the exact price but i recall thinking it was cheap. I on the other hand was planning to lock my front with an e-locker and keep the rear open but have a dana 44 or an 8.8 back there. THe super 35 sounds tempting but ive read guys on here stating that its just an overpriced turd.
Thoughts? Is it going to be as strong as a 44 or 8.8? With the 4cyl, will i need something as strong as an 8.8 if im never going to go over 33s?

it won't be as strong as a D44. You can add a weld-on truss and that can make the tubes rigid. Super 35 shafts are stronger than the stock 44 shafts but your carrier and R&P would still be smaller and weaker than the D44 ones. So you can make it close but not quite the same.

[Jeffy]

If money wasn't a concern then I'd consider a 9".

[stan98tj]

If money wasn't a concern then I'd consider a 9".

the 9"  lacks the c-clip correct? that makes it better in case it snaps, the shaft won't come out? Im concerned with losing some ground clearance, will the pumpkin be hanging down like an anchor, ready to snag on rocks and stuff?

[Jeffy]

the 9"  lacks the c-clip correct? that makes it better in case it snaps, the shaft won't come out? Im concerned with losing some ground clearance, will the pumpkin be hanging down like an anchor, ready to snag on rocks and stuff?

The 9" is a half-step under the D60 as far as stock strength.  No c-clips.  removable 3rd member.  You can shave the housing to gain some clearance.  You can also get a high-pinion but that costs a lot more.  Housing is lighter weight but still very strong as well.  standard pinion is low but shouldn't be an issue.  parts are generally pretty cheap.  You used to be able to get low mileage Detroits for 9's cheap on ebay.

[sharpxmen]

is the 9'' full floater? (I have no idea how it's built, i'll do a search once i post this). If it is not a full floater design then if you break a shaft you can probably crawl a little to get out of the way but won't be able to drive it back home, won't spit the wheel out like the c-clip so there is an advantage to it. It unlikely to break the 9'' from what i understand but then again i'm not familiar with it so don't really know.

[stan98tj]

wouldnt the 44 be plenty strong for the 4banger? i think we are all establishing that even with ARB locker, the super35 ive been offered is a waste? so between 44 and 8.8, would it be better to go for the 44? as far as the 9", it sounds real big and heavy. Im not sure where to get one either.

[sharpxmen]

wouldnt the 44 be plenty strong for the 4banger? i think we are all establishing that even with ARB locker, the super35 ive been offered is a waste? so between 44 and 8.8, would it be better to go for the 44? as far as the 9", it sounds real big and heavy. Im not sure where to get one either.

i wouldn't say it's a waste, with a truss i'm sure it can take way more abuse than a stock D35, but of course for the reasons presented before would still lack strength in some areas. A D44 with cromoly shafts would be a better choice imo for probably the same amount of money (if you consider all parts store bought exceptfor the axle itself).

Just looked and the 9'' is not full-floater, here's an article from a guy that made one using D44 fronts, too much money invested though
http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/ff9/

[Jeffy]

is the 9'' full floater? (I have no idea how it's built, i'll do a search once i post this). If it is not a full floater design then if you break a shaft you can probably crawl a little to get out of the way but won't be able to drive it back home, won't spit the wheel out like the c-clip so there is an advantage to it. It unlikely to break the 9'' from what i understand but then again i'm not familiar with it so don't really know.

You can have them built as FF's or SF.

wouldnt the 44 be plenty strong for the 4banger? i think we are all establishing that even with ARB locker, the super35 ive been offered is a waste? so between 44 and 8.8, would it be better to go for the 44? as far as the 9", it sounds real big and heavy. Im not sure where to get one either.

Personally, I'd probably consider a Toyota 8".  The big advantage of the removable third-member is that gear changes are a lot easier.  Pull it out and then you can change gears on a bench.  Carry a second their-member and swap back and forth.

The 9" is probably going to be lighter then a 8.8".  A 44 is strong but it really depends on how big you go.  If you want to do 35's or larger then you'd be better off with the 9.  If you're sticking with 33's or less then 44's are going to be fine.

I don't like the Super35 at all.  They're expensive and you can build a JY axle for less.  I'd consider a builder axle from say Currie or some other shop though.  Especially if you can't handle the welding and such.  Price would be too far off if you don't go crazy with the options.

If you want to do some welding then I'd consider JK D44's or even the J8 axles.  Cheapest would be to find some TJ Rubicon axles.  Yeah, they might not be the best but they are bolt-in and still strong then stock.

[stan98tj]

I intend to stay at 33. What about between 8.8 and d44? Im asking because the guy who is going to do the work mentioned he can get an 8.8 easier than a d44. I can purchase a brand new d44 with the gearing i want from quadratec and still be within budget, but why spend extra on that if a cheaper 8.8 can do the job. I believe the 8.8 is c-clip so that would be a problem if it breaks. Spend the time and maybe the extra cash on getting a d44 or go with the 8.8?

[AGUHR]

For a 4banger to break an 8.8 would take a lot out thrashing. I just put an 8.8 LSD in and the LSD locks up just like a full locker. So for under $1000 total - mounts, rebuild seals I have an axle that shouldnt ever cause any issues with me. I'm running 34 swampers (close to 33s really) and have absolutely no fear of the 8.8 snapping on me. Plus replacement parts for the 8.8 are all over and cheap. Not sure what gears but most 8.8s you can find with 4.10 and disc brakes. Even if you snap one the disc brakes will hold you together to get off the trail - (if its a last option). just my 2cents.

[neale_rs]

With a 4k budget, a Currie 9" would be the best way to go.  Another great option would be an exact width D44 (the 8.8 is a tad shorter). If you get the 8.8, make sure you get the tubes and center housing welded together by an expert, otherwise they will separate sooner or later.

[FourbangerYJ]

The D44 is going to be easier and faster since it's a bolt in for you. The 8.8 is going to need all the brackets and tubes welded. Both are strong enough for what you need. Personally I would do the D44 since they came from Jeep with one, there are plenty of upgrades if you choose to do them down the line. If you are buying brand new VS. used there is many places that have them ready to buy, or it wouldn't take long for them to build one for you.
Either way do the 4.56's.

Like others have said the 9 inch is the strongest if it's in your budget you should seriously think about it.

[Jeffy]

The D44 is going to be easier and faster since it's a bolt in for you. The 8.8 is going to need all the brackets and tubes welded. Both are strong enough for what you need. Personally I would do the D44 since they came from Jeep with one, there are plenty of upgrades if you choose to do them down the line. If you are buying brand new VS. used there is many places that have them ready to buy, or it wouldn't take long for them to build one for you.
Either way do the 4.56's.

Like others have said the 9 inch is the strongest if it's in your budget you should seriously think about it.

You mean TJ D44 though.

[FourbangerYJ]

You mean TJ D44 though.

  Isn't that what most companies use when they offer ready to bolt in D44's for a TJ?