Author Topic: Air intake idea  (Read 1329 times)

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Nicks92jeeper

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Air intake idea
« on: November 12, 2011, 05:49:36 AM »
Let's say you have a cold air intake system with the conical shaped filter. Would it be possible to twist the filter a little bit so as the air goes in you would get a swirling effect? One of the main reasons some people buy throttle body spacers and those tornado devices is to get the swirl effect but if you could start out sooner then the throttle body, my theory would be that it would have way more swirling motion and by the time it gets to the injectors it would mix more.

YJmechanic

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Re: Air intake idea
« Reply #1 on: November 12, 2011, 07:34:25 AM »
if you twist the filter then it will still just be taking in air from all sides as that is how a concical filter works.  the reason for the swirling effect in the tb spacer is because the air is channeled into the spacer.  kinda like a funnel causing the pressure to rise and swirl.

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Air intake idea
« Reply #2 on: November 12, 2011, 08:17:08 AM »
like he ^ said

assuming it would work and provide the spiraling effect
swirling the air at the airfilter would give you nothing, by the time it gets thru the throttle body and past the butterfly and from there split into the 4 runners after a 90deg turn won't be swirling anymore.

if you want to improve flow you pretty much need to achieve laminar flow, that is just like in aviation, once that is lost the air slows down and lose the advantage given by it - to avoid that you need smooth surfaces with no ridges, protuberances and so on and the airflow should not be disturbed by any sharp turns or edges, if you do then a turbulence in flow occurs and you lose air velocity which is what ultimately gives you the volummetric efficiency of the intake and head.
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Offline jfrabat

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Re: Air intake idea
« Reply #3 on: November 13, 2011, 02:36:50 PM »
if you want to improve flow you pretty much need to achieve laminar flow, that is just like in aviation, once that is lost the air slows down and lose the advantage given by it - to avoid that you need smooth surfaces with no ridges, protuberances and so on and the airflow should not be disturbed by any sharp turns or edges, if you do then a turbulence in flow occurs and you lose air velocity which is what ultimately gives you the volummetric efficiency of the intake and head.

By the way, and just to clarify for the erodynamically-challenged, laminar flow is an air flow without turbulence.  And protuberances, ridges, turns, etc cause turbulence.  In wings, you can only get laminar airflow over a certain percentage of the wing, but never the ENTIRE wing.  This is why in WWII, the P-51 mustang's wing had an airfoil with the thicker surface further back than used before, and also why even on "Silver" mustangs (polished aluminum), the wings were never silver (they were prepped much as you would prep a car today for paint, with primer and body filler, so that the surface was as smooth as possible).
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YJmechanic

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Re: Air intake idea
« Reply #4 on: November 13, 2011, 02:51:36 PM »
i love when classic aeronautics comes into the fray with an explanation.  sorry im just fascinated by planes and always up for what another form of mechanics can create in my world of wrenches

quicksand

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Re: Air intake idea
« Reply #5 on: November 14, 2011, 12:24:51 AM »
Its amazing how air works, I actually tried a AEM cone filter over my flat K&N. My flat panel yeilded better results. But then again that could be due to the fact that I have the front of the factory box cut open, along with the pasenger side of the box cut open with a adjustable sliding air plate. This allows me to adjust the amount of air presure build up in the box. If I open the slide to much I lose top end power, close it to much I lose crawling or idle control. It is cold air fed from the removed headlight bezels. It has worked real well for me as cool air pressure is build up at higher speeds. Also my air tube is insulated with heat wrap followed by a bored out 4.0L TB and custom TB spacer. My 4.0L TB is bored 62mm on the very top as it tapers down to 60mm just above the throttle plate. The 62mm bore is tapered at a angle slope only about 1 inch deep. The bottom of my TB has a slight bore of 56mm compared to the stock 54mm on a stock 4.0 TB. I did not want a overkill. Yeah does not sound like much but what a difference in allowing more air in along with keeping and increasing its air charge. Like a funnel, or the tip of a pressure washer. Works great the best my rig has ever ran. Fast off the line and great at WOT and passing power. Ofcourse thats in conjuction with other mods. I am now debating  should I do a electric fan or not. I kind of feel like I dont need it. I cant imagine having just a bit more power. We will see. Anyway works for me.