Topic: Added a electric fan to teh 2.5L this weekend WOW!

[Jeffy]

You want to be pushing around 1600CFM or more, I believe.  Most OEM fans will do that.

I think it's funny that someone would want to carry their boat anchor as a spare.  If you want a backup get a flex fan, much lighter.

[littleredbeater]

think it matters if the shroud comes out?

[Jeffy]

The fan needs a shroud.  If it has one built into it then you don't need it.  If it doesn't have one, then you'll want to make one.  The shroud focuses the fan and makes it more efficent.

[trailerrails]

That is one thing I like about my Mini Cooper fan. It has a shroud built in and it is only about 3" thick. I was able to get rid of that huge shroud.

Now I can stand on my front axle and work on my engine. I think I could fit a spare engine in that space.  



Edit: Sorry for the huge pic.

[Jeffy]

Looks nice...

Wanna send me one!

[SMC4WD]

really!!  Group buy on the Cooper fans??

Looks great in there!!

[trailerrails]

Let me talk to my guy and see if I can get my hands on some.

[jwrape]

any ideas on how many CFM you'll need on a continuous running electric fan to have sufficiant cooling in summer? I have a 2000cfm fan left over from another project I'm thinking about using. How much less effective do you think a fan would be mounted right to the radiator without a shroud? As soon as it warms up here I'm going to try this, I can almost drive up the hills near my house without downshifting........ just 5 more hp! haha

2000cfm's would be plenty. The little 4 bangers don't make a lot of heat. I installed a 160 degree thermostat thinking it would run about 180 degree after it warmed up, it actually runs at 150 degrees. So with the lower thermostat and the electric fan it barely gets warm. I am planning on changing out to a 180 degree thermostat just so my heater will still work. But I definately recommend running a lower temp thermostat than factory because every Jeep I have seen has burnt oil deposits built up under the valve cover from over heating. I know my YJ 2.5L ran at 212 degrees before I changed the thermostat out for a new one.

I am only running a low speed 16" fan on mine and it does great. A 2000 cfm fan might need a temp switch on it to not be too much for that little motor.

[MA2LA]

I thought the electric fan might bring the temp down a couple degrees but it hasn't so I will be replacing the thermostat to 160 degree

You may have isuse if you go with the 160. the computer reads it as not up to operating temp and can make it run like crap.  buddy tried it in his 4.0 and had issuse.

[Jeffy]

Typically, unless your engine is overheating swapping out the thermostat will not lower the operating temp.  Once the thermostat opens it's open.  Adding a lower temp thermostat would mean that it might take longer for the engine to warm up.  What some people do this for is to trick the computer to think it's running cooler then it actually is which richen's the fuel mixture for a while.

[jwrape]

Well I ran all the way home(38 miles) in slow and go traffic with the fan turned off to see how fast it would get hot and the temp never got above 175 degrees, even when i would come to a stop in traffic. That darn little motor doesn't run hot at all with the 160 degree thermostat.  It doesn't seem to be running rich either. No richer than normal anyways.  I do think I will be putting the 180 degree stat in it later though because my heater barely gets warm now. LOL! But as for it running bad, it runs really nice cooler. Go figure.  :D

[jackhammer]

what is optimal temp for out 4bangers

[jwrape]

what is optimal temp for out 4bangers

Good question. Personally I don't like how hot mine was running when I bought it. 212 seems a little high to me. And besides that I have A LOT of burnt oil build up under the valve cover that indicates high temps before. I think it should run around 180 or 190... The stock thermostat is 195 but that put me at the 212.

[Jeffy]

The stock thermostat is a 195.  The engine should settle anywhere from 197-210.  EFI like to run a bit warm.

[midnightcwby]

Ok, so I just found my electric fan I yanked from a honda 4banger before I sent her to her final resting place and decided it looked like it would fit my jeep pretty nice.  It did, almost too nice! It was kinda sceary that a part made for a jap ride fits so nicely where that plastic megaphone like fan shrowd used to be.  I wired the fan up with a switch powered by an "ignition on" hot wire. This controls a automotive grade single reed relay.  That runs that fan as long as I please with out any heat from the wires or relay.  So no worries there.  The most interesting thing is what I noticed when I took it for a test drive.  I didn't notice any power increase, and the off-idle wind-up is only just barely noticably quicker, but what I noticed and find rather interesting is that fact that I now run 5 to 10 degrees COOLER on the highway than I used to!? My only guess is that the damn stock fan shrowd was funneling so much air down to such a small diameter (The stock clutch fan is defiantely the smallest I've ever seen!) which must be causing a slight restriction of airflow through the radiator at higher speeds (60+).  At city speeds, the jeep runs at the same temp as it used to... WITH OUT turning the dang fan on?!  The ONLY time I have to turn it on at all is if the jeep is going to be idling for an extended period once it is already up to operating temp.  I haven't used it more than just to test it out a few times since I put it in.  I know that radatior seems a little bit bigger than this 4banger needs, but this is kinda nuts!  I'm definately hooking a T-Stat switch for the fan.  I will bet this thing will almost NEVER kick on automatically!  Well, if any one else has noticed this little observation, speak up!