Topic: split second ftc-1

[moparstroup]

i just installed a rimmer supercharger on my 2.5l TJ.  installing split second ftc-1 but you need  R4 software loaded on your laptop to program the new maps . would any body outhere running s/c or turbo have a copy of the R4 that they could email me? i would greatly appriciate it. cant wait to finish this so i can get on the bypass an turn my 33's 65 mph without the aid of a drafting partner!

[sharpxmen]

i just installed a rimmer supercharger on my 2.5l TJ.  installing split second ftc-1 but you need  R4 software loaded on your laptop to program the new maps . would any body outhere running s/c or turbo have a copy of the R4 that they could email me? i would greatly appriciate it. cant wait to finish this so i can get on the bypass an turn my 33's 65 mph without the aid of a drafting partner!

i should have a copy but i can't remember what size it is (i'm surprized yours did not came with a CD) - could be too big to email, i'll dig in the garage but not sure when i can do it (next few days).

do you have stock gears with those 33s? and if yes do you account for the difference at the speedo due to larger size tires (did you get the correct speedo gear?) - you should be able to do 65 in 4th gear witout any problems and without the supercharger.

[moparstroup]

actually i do have stock gears and do use only 4th gear and yeah i can go 65 but i live in the mountains so it labors some. i know i need to regear but i just couldnt pass up the super charger project and road2damscus treated my right on price. hes a good guy. i emailed split second about the base map for 4.5lbs of boost with max rpm of 5250 and they sent it to me today. they said they could email me the r4 software for 50.00. but i was hoping that someone had it and could copy it and email it to me. you have been very kind in offering to try. that what 4bangerjp forums are for right? jeep guys helping out jeep guys. i know i am looking forward to sharing this exsperience with other people interested in trying this. i could never find anyone out there who did this and got the drivebility bugs out of it. i hope to be they guy who gets it right eventually. hey while your here the small line that runs along side the fuel supply line. is that for return. on my jeep is is just an open line due to 00TJ's are returnless. if this is an unused return line and not some sort of vent then my regulator problems are handled

[moparstroup]

have any idea whet # plug is 2 heatranges colder? according to napa they would go from a heat range of 12  to 10 but no one supposedly makes that plug. emailed champion today waiting on an answer from them.

[sharpxmen]

have any idea whet # plug is 2 heatranges colder? according to napa they would go from a heat range of 12  to 10 but no one supposedly makes that plug. emailed champion today waiting on an answer from them.

i bought mine from a Marine supplier (NGK something, i'll have to check what they are and let you know) - they were $4 each or something like that.

EDIT:
NGK ZFR7F

two heat ranges colder? napa says no one make it. that would be a champion plug with a heat range of 10 compared to 12 but they tell me champion does not make it. emailed champion waiting to hear. do you know a part number that would work in any brand?

the heat range goes backwards, so 7 is colder than 6 and so on, the one i posted above is the 2 ranges cooler vs stock NGK (at least that's what i remember, bought them a while ago).

[sharpxmen]

actually i do have stock gears and do use only 4th gear and yeah i can go 65 but i live in the mountains so it labors some. i know i need to regear but i just couldnt pass up the super charger project and road2damscus treated my right on price. hes a good guy. i emailed split second about the base map for 4.5lbs of boost with max rpm of 5250 and they sent it to me today. they said they could email me the r4 software for 50.00. but i was hoping that someone had it and could copy it and email it to me. you have been very kind in offering to try. that what 4bangerjp forums are for right? jeep guys helping out jeep guys. i know i am looking forward to sharing this exsperience with other people interested in trying this. i could never find anyone out there who did this and got the drivebility bugs out of it. i hope to be they guy who gets it right eventually. hey while your here the small line that runs along side the fuel supply line. is that for return. on my jeep is is just an open line due to 00TJ's are returnless. if this is an unused return line and not some sort of vent then my regulator problems are handled

PM your email address, i'll send you the software

EDIT: sent you a PM with a download link, so no need for your email.

[moparstroup]

hi sharp, i nstalled ftc  and installed base map they sent me did altitude correction, but jeep runs horrible and has ever since i removed regulator. the regulator was not installed correctly but it did drop fuel pressure. ( supply line was attached to return port but gauge was reading 32 lbs) and vehicle idled fine and took throttle ok as best i can remember) the next change was removing the regulator that was not for returnless fuel and i broke the tps sensor by accident. replaced tps and started vehicle and check engine light was on and wouldnt idle and wont take throttle, tried to take it out on the road wont take throttle and bucks and jerks around 2k under load and under boost it smells like raw fuel and didnt run right at all. next installed ftc-1 and downloaded and installed the 6 psi base map they sent me and did the correction for altitude that it uses for map reference with engine off. road tested almost exactly the same. runs horrible, impossible to drive. wont take fuel (feels like stepping on throttle with choke plates closed on a carb engine. 2k stumble to flat out fuel cut sensation. only time the engine runs in any resemblence of normal is if you feather throttle to 1500 prm or so with no load. took a couple data recordings. it just doesnt seem like it should run this bad with the base map installed. is it normal to run this bad?  jfrom what i read on the tuning papers on ftc site it seems like this point should be fine tuning. i feel like somthing is causing it to run this bad and i would be trying to correct more than what the ftc is made for.

[sharpxmen]

you removed the stock map sensor (unplug the connector)?

edit: you might want to check and see if there's something else going on also, are you sure the new tps is working properly? I would maybe skip the timing feature first and focus on fuel (connect the crank sensor wire directly to PCM and bypass the ftc1), and also if it still does it put back the MAP wire and use the stock injectors - while doing so drive it without boost, if it does not run properly then there's something else going on which you should fix first. Reset the computer and see what codes are stored after that, fix the problem then reconnect the ftc1.

I would also monitor the MAP output from ftc1, if you have a vac pump (the cheap ones used for bleeding the brakes, i got one from harbor freight for $12 or so) you can connect it to the vac port on the ftc and check the output MAP voltage progressively, in your case should be something like 3.3v at 0 and go to about 0.6 or around there at -20inhg vacuum. if all that checks out then you're off to do some tuning. put the scanner on and see what your fuel trims look like (and check the codes also, should tell you if it's too rich or what else is going on). Don't use the enricher yet until you narrow down the base map.

edit2:
how did you connect the vac/boost port on FTC1? post some pics and details of your install, not saying you did something wrong but if it's not connected properly won't work so maybe go over the install and connections again.

[moparstroup]

update. i connected it to port on the bottom side of the s/c, i tried it off of one of the ports on the back but didnt really change much. i measured the voltage comming out of tps and its 1.0 volt at idle and and 4.9 at wot. thought closed throttle was too high at 1.0v but i got a second sensor and it read the same.  then went to the salvage yard and removed one and it also read 1 volt. service manual says .4 or so but i seem to remember the comuter reads differently than dvm backprobed in the connector. hooked up a/f ratio gauge and it does toggle while idling but when you stab the throttle it goes dead lean and chug a lugs. didnt drive it yet and watch it. i will take pics and post to see if you see anything. previous owner said that for him the ftc/enrichner didnt have enough of a range of componsation for him. i took the back off of the enrichner and he had all dials turned the whole way to the lean side. i didnt hook it up yet because i wasnt sure where to cut the signal wires that were already cut when installing ftc. i agree i think something else is wrong but i cant see it. i will get a scan tool this week and see if i can find something

[sharpxmen]

not sure what you mean by the bottom of the supercharger, your ftc1 should have the vac line straight to the intake manifold (below the supercharger). also, did you unplug the stock MAP. the test with the voltage i explained in previous post was for the MAP voltage output from FTC. you will need a wideband, the narrowband gauge is just informational, and you should also have a fuel pressure gauge preferably installed in the cab somewhere so you can monitor it when drive it. did you installed the 30lb injectors? can't see why it's that lean though, but then again it could be just slightly lean and your narrowband can't tell, at that point you might just need some slight adjustment in FTC.

[moparstroup]

sorry intake manifold, according to the rimmer instructions that is where it can see boost and vac. although the instructions for tj say vac port as opposed to some other vehicles that say vac / boost. did not unplug map but the wire is cut and open at the sensor side. the part that kills me is it doesnt run any different with or without ftc when not under boost. also the s/c vibrates when making boost only. gas pedal vibrates like a vibrator. did you isolate the throttle linkage with rubber bushings or anything? i was carefull to solder and heat shrink all conections. the only other thing i can remember is i replaced vac lines to several pieces but i dont think i could have done anything to cause it what it is doing now. cant hear any vac leaks. also i think i  told you this but the s/c was rebuilt 5k miles ago . yes on the 30lb injectors. got a wideband and monitor for it,i assume you dont replace the narrow band but drill hole and weld in bung and add it. is that right? i will check the ftc map voltage and get back to you. thanks again sharp

[sharpxmen]

sorry intake manifold, according to the rimmer instructions that is where it can see boost and vac. although the instructions for tj say vac port as opposed to some other vehicles that say vac / boost. did not unplug map but the wire is cut and open at the sensor side. the part that kills me is it doesnt run any different with or without ftc when not under boost. also the s/c vibrates when making boost only. gas pedal vibrates like a vibrator. did you isolate the throttle linkage with rubber bushings or anything? i was carefull to solder and heat shrink all conections. the only other thing i can remember is i replaced vac lines to several pieces but i dont think i could have done anything to cause it what it is doing now. cant hear any vac leaks. also i think i  told you this but the s/c was rebuilt 5k miles ago . yes on the 30lb injectors. got a wideband and monitor for it,i assume you dont replace the narrow band but drill hole and weld in bung and add it. is that right? i will check the ftc map voltage and get back to you. thanks again sharp

yes, you weld a bung and add the wideband sensor.

when you say it vibrates, could that be maybe running in 3 cylinders? ans also, did you take out the timing feature of the FTC (leave the crank signal unchanged). i would put back the stock injectors, reconnect the stock map sensor and drive it without boost, then if it runs right you know it's related to ftc or injectors, if it runs the same then it's something else.
as far as throttle goes, you shouldn't have to do anything, but you to make sure the bracket that holds the sleeve is firmly tightened and that is not binding anywhere (if you anchored it to the body somewhere and not to the motor can do what you describe).

[moparstroup]

update : ok i think i got something i can work with now. just for the heck of it i jacked the fuel curve up to about 20.0 then at 3k and in boost the full 25.0 and the off idle bog is gone and most of the bucking and jerking is gone. still goes lean under boost wich is understandable without the enrichner. all i wanted is some baseline that i could work with. threads are damaged on wideband so be a few days till i do any real accurate attempts at mapping. the only thing that bothers me is why with bigger injectors and higher pressures i would have to richen it up so much. anyway thank you for all your help so far and i will chime in again soon.

[sharpxmen]

did you check the fuel pressure? not sure why you need to add so much enrichment, doesn't sound right unless all that is in closed loop, but it should still run ok so who knows what's with those injectors. I would look for a set of 32lb/hr at junkyard and work from there (they don't have to be perfect but can be a good test platform if they are decent, if it runs better then you can look for a set of good ones). Since i saw you mentioned 6psi of boost I think you can even go 34 since you have no boost reference for fuel pressure (it means the injectors will be operating at 43 psi at full boost)

get the wideband in and then you'll know more, I'd be interested in hearing how things progress, good luck and keep us posted.

[moparstroup]

oh gosh sharp i feel like an idiot. i contacted the original owner and he said that he forgot that he took the 30lb ford racing injectors out and installed 23/24 lb injectors in it. i guess that explains why things are leaner than they should be. now that i have a wideband took pipe off yesterday welding in new bung and reinstalling tomarrow i will be able to start mapping correctly. i guess i should take them out and reinstall the 30lb ford injectors though huh. in mapping with wideband i assume thats done in open loop. i asked him why he took out the 30lb ones. i will let you know why when he chimes back in.