Topic: New suspension-need opinions on tire size and spring size

[stan98tj]

Noticed with my last wheeling trip at the end of the day my Rough Country shocks were struggling to absorb any and all disturbances from small pebbles to big ruts. I've had the RC kit for about 4yrs now and paid just around $300 for a 2.5" kit with springs, shocks and t-case drop. I eventually upgraded to their 3.25" kit which was just a few coil spacers to fit the 33" Toyos and then went up to 1"BL to clear them completely. The thing is that after daily driving the jeep and wheeling it, this kit has run its course. For what it was, it was def a great kit and it doesnt owe me a dime and I would advise anyone who is on a budget (as i was when i bought it) to get one. But now, I'm afraid the ride quality has suffered both on road and off.

Ok, so here is what I want. I want the best shocks and springs on the market. Ok, well let's make it less vague. I'm interested in either Old Man Emu or a good spring combo with Bilsteins. I'm leaning more towards OME.  I'm 100% certain I can clear my 33" Toyos with a 2.5" OME kit as I would keep the 1" BL. My concern is the following: I MAY want to upgrade to the next size up in the toyo line which converts to right around 34.6"x12.4" (this would be when I run these current ones bald and they have QUITE a bit of life left). Toyo calls that a 35" tire even though it measures a hair over 34.5" I'm concerned the 2.5" OME wont be enough to clear. I would be willing to stick the coil spacers to regain a bit of clearance. Moreover, even if it DOES clear, will i be killing my articulation by limiting my uptravel? I have extended bumpstops now which i would plan on keeping in there. My upper and lower control arms have johnny joints on both ends and i run sway bar discos, so my axle is very free to move should I allow it. I don't like very tall lifts and would rather run the Low center of gravity rout with 2.5-3" but I don't want to lose "flex" when running 35s. Oh and lastly, and this is purely just for my personal taste, i would rather not run flat fenders...a bit of trimming is fine but would rather not run tube or flat. So, will i clear or should I be looking at a taller lift? I wouldnt be opposed to 1.25" BL either, but would rather stay at 1" if i can.

Also, if you have driven or ridden in a jeep with OME or Bilstein and think either is total garbage as far as ride quality, please chime in! Ride quality would be important to me.

[neale_rs]

I've never heard bad comments about the OME springs nor the Bilstein shocks.  That combo with a belly-up kit would be great.

[Jeffy]

OME's are some of the best off-the-shelf springs you can get.  As for Bilstein, everyone I know who was running Rancho 9000's back in the 90's run Bilstein's or Fox Racing or King.  5100's are good mono-shocks.  The next up are the 5150's which have an external crossflow reservoir.  Another option would be to step up to rebuildable shocks like the Fox and King.  You can replace the seals and adjust the bound and rebound as well.  Not to mention, replace individual parts instead of the whole thing.

35" tires are rarely 35".  They're usually 34.5-34.7" on their recommended/measured wheel.  Go narrower and the tire will sit taller.  In any case, I wouldn't worry too much.  You can always extend the bump and steering stops to keep the tires out of the fenders.

[stan98tj]

OME's are some of the best off-the-shelf springs you can get.  As for Bilstein, everyone I know who was running Rancho 9000's back in the 90's run Bilstein's or Fox Racing or King.  5100's are good mono-shocks.  The next up are the 5150's which have an external crossflow reservoir.  Another option would be to step up to rebuildable shocks like the Fox and King.  You can replace the seals and adjust the bound and rebound as well.  Not to mention, replace individual parts instead of the whole thing.

35" tires are rarely 35".  They're usually 34.5-34.7" on their recommended/measured wheel.  Go narrower and the tire will sit taller.  In any case, I wouldn't worry too much.  You can always extend the bump and steering stops to keep the tires out of the fenders.

Im afraid that I may need to extend the bumpstops a lot and that would effectively reduce my up-travel. That's my main concern is loss of travel given such a large tire and not too much lift.

[sharpxmen]

between 33 and 35 for the same tire width you only have to extend the stops by 1 inch.

[stan98tj]

between 33 and 35 for the same tire width you only have to extend the stops by 1 inch.

so since i already run 2 inch extended stops, you are saying i wont have to bumpstop any more?

[sharpxmen]

so since i already run 2 inch extended stops, you are saying i wont have to bumpstop any more?

what i'm saying is the thread of the tire at the top is closer to your fender by 1 inch with the current bumpstop when you switch from 33'' diameter tires to 35'' (1'' difference in radius) at the same flex (axle position in relation to the frame), so if currently at your max upwards travel when resting on the bumpstop your tire is not touching but it's almost there you'll need an additional 1'' of bumpstop when going to 35''. if you have 1'' or more room then you don't need to extend it. That's for the same width tire, if you're going from 10.5 to 12.5 then you add another inch (if you keep the same rims).

[aka-justin]

I'm loving my Fox 2.0 Reservoirs Shocks and Currie Springs; they kick ***.  Feels like I'm not driving a Jeep – if that makes any sense. Only complaint is it's a little soft and dips on braking and big bumps, but the ride is awesome.

[stan98tj]

Seems like you guys think I can tuck 35s on a TJ with 2.5" of lift and 1" Body. Good. Sharp, i'll be increasing my tire width but only by .5" (12" to 12.4" or 12.5") so it shoiuldn't matter much, i don't think. 35s just seemed like an awefully large tire, but I kept hearing about Low COG rigs running them on little lifts, but I figured that involved a lot of body mod/cutting.

[Jeffy]

The only way you're going to really know is to buy them.  The jump from 33's to 35's is pretty minimal if you're on the tall side already.  Typically, it's only minimal work.  Adjust you're steering stops and bump stops if you have to.  It's not a big deal if you lose some up travel.  2-4" is typical for a crawler.

[stan98tj]

The only way you're going to really know is to buy them.  The jump from 33's to 35's is pretty minimal if you're on the tall side already.  Typically, it's only minimal work.  Adjust you're steering stops and bump stops if you have to.  It's not a big deal if you lose some up travel.  2-4" is typical for a crawler.

I looked at my jeep for a long time before i left and really thought i could squeeze them in, but the concern was i would have to bumpstop maybe too much and then lose uptravel. I think now that you guys are right and that I will fit them fine and not lose in uptravel...and if i do lose some it will be negligable. I do have a buddy who runs 35s on his jeep on a 3" and he is CONVINCED the 2.5" OME won't fit given that he has had to run 3" springs, 1" body and flat fenders. I had looked up the OME 2.5" and 35s on google and found a thread on JeepForum where a guy representing DPG Off Road has a jeep on 35s and OME 2.5", but my buddy is convinced those are 4" springs...
Ill call DPG when i get home and get the real story and see how well the 2.5" OME fits on a TJ with 35s

[jagular7]

I run 35s on 7" wide rims with 2" wheel spacers. I run a 13" shock in the rear. I have 8.8 with Mad4x4 brackets. All this adds slight lift difference compared to that of a stock D35. I use LJ Rubi coils and 2" poly spacers. I have extended poly bump stops and 1" riser block on the axle mount. My flares are stock Rubi's.
I have 3/4" of space between the bump stop and riser. It does collapse close to an 1" at full compression during articulation. My 35s rub the rear most portion of the lower panel and flare. Though the top of the tire is not within the flare.
The front is another story.

I don't use photobucket much if at all with FB readily available for pics.

What is real nice about coil suspension is you can remove the coil and articulate the axle with a floor jack to get the travel measurements. You can compress the shock completely as the axle rests on the bump stop and look to see how much tire clearance you have or need or how much shorter or longer shock you need.

[stan98tj]

I run 35s on 7" wide rims with 2" wheel spacers. I run a 13" shock in the rear. I have 8.8 with Mad4x4 brackets. All this adds slight lift difference compared to that of a stock D35. I use LJ Rubi coils and 2" poly spacers. I have extended poly bump stops and 1" riser block on the axle mount. My flares are stock Rubi's.
I have 3/4" of space between the bump stop and riser. It does collapse close to an 1" at full compression during articulation. My 35s rub the rear most portion of the lower panel and flare. Though the top of the tire is not within the flare.
The front is another story.

I don't use photobucket much if at all with FB readily available for pics.

What is real nice about coil suspension is you can remove the coil and articulate the axle with a floor jack to get the travel measurements. You can compress the shock completely as the axle rests on the bump stop and look to see how much tire clearance you have or need or how much shorter or longer shock you need.

You guys have really boosted my confidence about this. When i get home i'm gonna order OME 2.5" springs and shocks (the new nitro ones). I'll go ahead and outboard the rear shocks while im at it too. When I go to run the 35s, if i need a bit more, ill bump up to a 1.25" bl and call it good.

[sharpxmen]

You guys have really boosted my confidence about this. When i get home i'm gonna order OME 2.5" springs and shocks (the new nitro ones). I'll go ahead and outboard the rear shocks while im at it too. When I go to run the 35s, if i need a bit more, ill bump up to a 1.25" bl and call it good.

ok, if you are going to buy new i think you could just go with a higher lift, if you go with budget lift then yeah but imo if you're going to spend some serious coin might as well get something higher than 2.5'', just my opinion.

[neale_rs]

4" of lift works really well, it's a good balance between belly height and approach/departure angles and stability.  2.5" is very nice with huge tires (with a lot of fender modifications) but with just 33s or 35s you might want a bit more belly height and approach/departure angles.  Belly height can be achieved with a belly up kit but it will cost more.  The gas tank can be lifted, but will require a new skid, more $.  The approach angle could be improved with a front stretch, more $. Also, body lifts are hard on body mounts (mine are deteriorating fast even without a body lift), so it is better to avoid them if possible.