Topic: May be required to increase to 35s, may be required to go up to HP D30

[stan98tj]

Talked with HP Motorsports yesterday and my plans for a TDi swap are pretty much all set, got the answers I needed but the conversation did raise a few issues I hadn't originally thought of. My 4.56 gears just MAY push my RPMs a bit too high. HPA generally runs 4.11 with the 5spd on 33s and wants you to be right around 2200 rpm at 60mph. My current set up has my RPMs at 2850-3k at 60mph. This isn't a real issue for the 4banger as it's pretty much in the powerband at those turns. The diesel, on the other hand will want to turn lower.

Two solutions: regear or run 35s. HPA suggested I absolutely run 35s as it won't affect the power, the motor will turn the 35s with ease, my fuel economy will be intact and it will bring the turns down. This, however brings up a different issue. I had planned to keep my current LP Dana 30 as the 4.56 gears weren't near the capacity for the carrier and I felt that on 33s I wasn't in real danger. However, if i have to step up to 35s, I don't think I'd like to sit on an lp and would feel better with an HP 30. I also need to be conscious that there will be a significant increase in torque with the swap, somewhere in the neighborhood of 300ft lb, so I feel like I may want to beef it up a bit and prep it for the weight of the tires with some sleeves, gussets and ball joints (perhaps synergy). I have plans to run RCV shafts as well, but I would have ran them in the low pinion as well if I were staying on 33s.
Thoughts? Suggestions to do this in a fiscally conservative fashion? Suggestions where I could get the sleeves and good set of ball joints for a decent price?

[neale_rs]

You should be ok on 35s.   That said, I haven't gone to 35s because it would require more mods (maybe fenders, bumpstops, or body lift) and every mod takes up a lot of time, so due to lack of time, I've just stuck with 33s.

[Mozman68]

 Damn...I'm glad you're going the same route as me.  I hope to do the conversions as well this summer assuming I get a nice bonus.  I imagine I should be good with my 37's and 4.88's.  I hope.

What is your schedule for install?  New engine or did you find a used one?  I haven't come across a nice enough used one and may just go new.  My logic is that it will basically be like getting a new car for under $20,000....at least that's what I expect any of you to tell my wife if we ever meet....

[stan98tj]

Damn...I'm glad you're going the same route as me.  I hope to do the conversions as well this summer assuming I get a nice bonus.  I imagine I should be good with my 37's and 4.88's.  I hope.

What is your schedule for install?  New engine or did you find a used one?  I haven't come across a nice enough used one and may just go new.  My logic is that it will basically be like getting a new car for under $20,000....at least that's what I expect any of you to tell my wife if we ever meet....

Glad I'm not the only one looking at this swap! I came in way under 20k when I figured the costs. The HPA tech is going to send me an email with all the stuff i need from them if I were to pull from a doner car and what I would need if I got it from them.
Basically ball park you're looking at:
$1495.00 for the truss kit which has all the mounting stuff
$1295.00 Transmission adapter
$1395.00 Turbo
$595.00 for the ECU flash (free if purchased with truss and trany pack)
$1595.00 for the wiring harness. Not absolutely needed if you can do your own. I'll prob get it, though to keep installation simple
HPA sells a new TDi for around $7000 (or 6k, can't recall). That's brings the total around $13,000. There are some other misc items, such as the fuel pump and gas pedal. I plan on looking to see if i can get a used TDi first. I had spotted some for around $2500 with about 80k on the clock. The HPA guys had said to try and find one with under 80k for the swap.
My plan is to do the bulk of the install myself. Pull the engine out, install the new one and then get a shop to do the wiring. I figure if I go with the wiring harness, that 1500 spent will save me in the end as the shop should be able to get it hooked up quicker.

[sharpxmen]

why do you have to buy the turbo? (what's included with that?)

[stan98tj]

It also seems as though buying in package form from them saved a bunch as well.
SO i may just purchase the stage 1 and 2 package and then source the engine elsewhere. That would bring it to 4699 without the engine.

[stan98tj]

why do you have to buy the turbo? (what's included with that?)

It's actually the intercooler package and K&N filter as well as the water pump. I thought I had seen turbo kit somewhere...

[Mozman68]

Yeah...I was just planning on buying everything from them and having my Jeep buddies for an install party weekend.

I like it since it would be a new engine and they can chip it for more horsepower.  Is the perfect solution for my Jeep as it is a daily driver putting on 80 miles a day.  Want to do it before any issues crop up with my current 4-banger.  Has been running perfectly though.

[stan98tj]

Yeah...I was just planning on buying everything from them and having my Jeep buddies for an install party weekend.

I like it since it would be a new engine and they can chip it for more horsepower.  Is the perfect solution for my Jeep as it is a daily driver putting on 80 miles a day.  Want to do it before any issues crop up with my current 4-banger.  Has been running perfectly though.

The tech said most folks are seeing 29-30 highway mpg running 33s-35s. 4.88 is a pretty deep gear, you may find yourself as I probably will and either need to regear or change tire size. In your case, I'm not sure if 40s are a viable solution.

[Mozman68]

I could go that big with some minor mods, but don't want to...love the 37's for their performance and look.

Re-gear wouldn't be a big deal other than cost since I'm running D60's front and rear, but would probably keep the 4.88's just to see how it runs.  I imagine it would be fine with my 5-speed.

[Mozman68]

Actually, now that I read your first post again I think I'll be fine.  I usually have to drop down to fourth gear now at about 65 mph/2500 rpm.  I imagine I would be in their sweet spot for 60 in 5th gear...will check when I get home...

[stan98tj]

Moz, do you plan on using their standard tune package for 265ft lb torque or do you plan on having them tune it more? I asked them about 300ft lb and they said they would more than likely be able to dial it up. The guy told me about one of their customers from the Netherlands had them tune out to 400ft lbs 

[sharpxmen]

i would think it develops a big cloud of black smoke to get it to 400ftlb, what's the point anyway - will kill your mpg, is not like you'll get it at idle so won't help with crawling.

[Bounty Hunter]

RCV's and all the other mods mentioned are a ton of money to throw at a d30.  You still have a small R&P, small brakes, and Non-serviceable bearings that will wear quickly.

[neale_rs]

If you swap the front axle just jump from the D30 to a D60.  There is just a small tire size range that a front D44 will handle that a D30 won't also handle, maybe 36 inch tires, and then you are into D60 territory anyway.  The weak link is the u-joint, D30s (newer ones) and D44s (non-JK) generally use the same size.