Topic: Bent tie rod

[neale_rs]

My tie rod got bent about 1 inch up and one inch back today while wheeling




Would it be ok to keep using it or should it be replaced ASAP?  It seemed fine on the 40 mile drive back from the trial.

[Jeffy]

Looks like it's bowed.  If you can get it straightened it will probably be ok.  If you're worried sleeve it.

[neale_rs]

It's a slight bow just 1 inch up and 1 inch back.  Is it worth straightening with such a slight bow? 

[aw12345]

Yes , straightening is a good idea, since it will collapse a lot easier with a bend in it

[stan98tj]

I drove around for a short time on a bent rod. I didn't wheel it at all, however. I upgraded to the Currie correctlync drag link and Ironman Fab 4x4 HD aluminum tie rod. Now i can bang it over and over on rocks and not worry about it bending :)

[neale_rs]

Thanks for the recommendations.  I'll try to straighten it out but will also look into an upgrade.

What would be your opinions regarding these options?

1. Just flip a stock tie rod
2. Flip but with a heavier duty tie rod
3. Tera high steer knuckle and their aluminum tie rod - I've seen this one get pushed into a rock and pop back perfectly straight

[Jeffy]

If this is the first time you've hit it then I'd just sleeve it and call it good.  You could flip it but you'll have to either get inserts or fill in the knuckle and ream a new hole on top.  If you have a dropped pitman arm you might have to swap back to the stock one.

[neale_rs]

Thanks.  One mod that might be coming up is a front SOA so I'll probably skip the tie rod flip and just get a stronger one at some point.

[Jeffy]

Thanks.  One mod that might be coming up is a front SOA so I'll probably skip the tie rod flip and just get a stronger one at some point.

If you do a SOA, like mine, on stock leafs, you'll have problems if you flip the tie-rod.

[Adams77]

Be sure to check your toe in before too long (if you dont change the tie rod)

[FourbangerYJ]

I flipped my tie rod and went with the GM TRE's. No problems ever since. I sleeved some 1 inch tube inside some 1.25 tube with some weld in bungs for the TRE's. There are ready made kits out there or you can DIY just by buying the bungs. I bought my TRE from a local parts store. I got my bungs from Poly Performance.
Parts Mike has kits that are ready to go, other than reaming your knuckles.

[neale_rs]

I flipped my tie rod and went with the GM TRE's. No problems ever since. I sleeved some 1 inch tube inside some 1.25 tube with some weld in bungs for the TRE's. There are ready made kits out there or you can DIY just by buying the bungs. I bought my TRE from a local parts store. I got my bungs from Poly Performance.
Parts Mike has kits that are ready to go, other than reaming your knuckles.

Getting a kit for the flip with GM TRE's sounds good right now.  Actually, SUA springs protect the tie rod a lot, like when slipping off a rock.  Could always look into getting some Deaver springs for more flex.

Thanks for the recommendations.

[Jeffy]

Getting a kit for the flip with GM TRE's sounds good right now.  Actually, SUA springs protect the tie rod a lot, like when slipping off a rock.  Could always look into getting some Deaver springs for more flex.

Thanks for the recommendations.

Not so good if you're planing a SOA though.

[neale_rs]

Not so good if you're planing a SOA though.

True.  Need to finalize which way to go with this. 

The front SOA would provide more flex and more clearance when approaching obstacles but I've always put reliability before capability and SUA is more reliable (protects the tie rod more), so I will probably just stick with SUA for now. 

Some Deaver SUA springs combined with some 35s could provide increased flex and the extra approach clearance when I decide to go for more capability.

[Jeffy]

Get rid of that bumper will probably shorten the front approach 4-5" then you'd gain more by not having the bumper 2-3" below the frame.