Author Topic: Cylinder head bolt retorque?  (Read 1040 times)

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Offline dexetr30

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Cylinder head bolt retorque?
« on: April 07, 2013, 01:20:53 PM »
Do the bolts need to be re-torqued when installing a new cylinder head? I'll be doing the work either tomorrow or Tuesday. Depends when the shop gets finished with the head. If it needs to be re-torqued, what's the process?
02 2.5.L automatic: 4.0L t.b., 4.0l air intake, K&N filter, Scream'n Demon coil, 8.5mm MSD Super Conductor plug wires, Stage 1 Jet Chip, 29" BFG all terrain KO's. Taurus E-fan, Hummer front bumper, Skyjacker high capacity trans pan, 48" hi-lift, Rubi susp w. 3/4" BB.

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Cylinder head bolt retorque?
« Reply #1 on: April 07, 2013, 01:59:03 PM »
per FSM: tighten bolts in circular patter 1 to 10 starting with the center one on passenger side. 3 steps for tightening 25ftlb, 45ftlb and then on the last one 110ftlb except for bolt 7 (is the one on the driver side closes to the radiator) which is 100ftlb. bolt 7 needs sealant on the thread, it is not capped and the hole goes into the water jacket inside the block. doesn't specify re-torque, i usually do that after 300 miles but that's with an aluminum head, the Jeep is cast steel so i don't know to be honest.
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
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Offline dexetr30

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Re: Cylinder head bolt retorque?
« Reply #2 on: April 07, 2013, 02:30:29 PM »
Okay, now I'm really confused because my Hayes manual says: "Coat the threads of stud bolt (no. 8 in the tightening sequence) with Loctite Pipe Sealant  with Teflon no. 592 (or equivalent)."

According to my diagram, # 8 is the front most, driver side. My Jeep is a 2002. I'm also wondering if I should coat the threads of the remaining bolts with clean motor oil or grease of some kind before torquing?

Thanks for the help.  :thumb:

02 2.5.L automatic: 4.0L t.b., 4.0l air intake, K&N filter, Scream'n Demon coil, 8.5mm MSD Super Conductor plug wires, Stage 1 Jet Chip, 29" BFG all terrain KO's. Taurus E-fan, Hummer front bumper, Skyjacker high capacity trans pan, 48" hi-lift, Rubi susp w. 3/4" BB.

Offline dexetr30

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Re: Cylinder head bolt retorque?
« Reply #3 on: April 07, 2013, 03:01:22 PM »
I just went out and checked. # 8 (as shown in the Hayes manual pic I posted) does indeed pass through the water jacket. # 7 as shown in the fsm does not.
02 2.5.L automatic: 4.0L t.b., 4.0l air intake, K&N filter, Scream'n Demon coil, 8.5mm MSD Super Conductor plug wires, Stage 1 Jet Chip, 29" BFG all terrain KO's. Taurus E-fan, Hummer front bumper, Skyjacker high capacity trans pan, 48" hi-lift, Rubi susp w. 3/4" BB.

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Cylinder head bolt retorque?
« Reply #4 on: April 07, 2013, 04:27:10 PM »
in the 95 FSM #7 is where you have #8, like i said, driver's side closest to the radiator (which is the same one regardless of the numbering, difference between the 2 manuals is where you start the numbering going clockwise, in your case is the center one on the driver's side, the 95 is the center one on the passenger side, doesn't really matter which one you start with as long as it is one of the 2 in the center)

EDIT: ! make sure you clean the holes so there's no water or oil in them before you install the bolts, otherwise you crack the block.

you put a drop of oil on the threads (except for the one with the sealant of course) and a also little bit under the head of each bolt.
« Last Edit: April 07, 2013, 04:31:45 PM by sharpxmen »
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end