Author Topic: Replacing Ignition Switch  (Read 1591 times)

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Wheezer

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Replacing Ignition Switch
« on: May 09, 2013, 10:39:32 AM »
I will be replacing my ignition switch in my '95YJ this weekend and since I'll be in there replacing the switch I'll go ahead and change out everything connecting to it... the rack, the pinion and the switch itself. The switch is worn to the point that it takes two hands to start the Jeep in cold weather, this added effort has resulted in the rack and pinion wearing to the point that it slips every once in a while. So it all has to go. Any hints, tips, or tricks out there? I have my FSM to guide me so wish me luck.

Wheezer

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Replacing Ignition Switch
« Reply #1 on: May 09, 2013, 10:51:22 AM »
what rack and pinion? shouldn't be any in the steering column

i can dig out the FSM procedure but that might be later tonight or tomorrow morning.
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

Wheezer

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Re: Replacing Ignition Switch
« Reply #2 on: May 09, 2013, 03:01:09 PM »
The rack and pinion are the mechanisms that transfer force from the lock cylinder to the ignition switch. My switch is so stiff that a tooth or two has broken or worn out causing it to slip occasionally. I have read up on the procedure in the FSM and it wants me to remove the entire column in order to effect the repair. A mechanic experienced in the job tells me that I don't need to pull the column though it would probably make the job easier.

Wheezer

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Replacing Ignition Switch
« Reply #3 on: May 09, 2013, 11:08:47 PM »
rack and pinion would have a toothed gear somewhere, i dont think you have such a thing in your contact/key assembly. I think you can get away without removing the column but have not done it myself so i can't tell for sure, most vehicles you can so i would think that's the case with the Jeep as well.
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Replacing Ignition Switch
« Reply #4 on: May 10, 2013, 08:05:24 AM »
i checked the FSM for YJ, looks like once you remove the steering wheel you have access to the lock pin for the key cylinder so it should allow you to remove it. I understand what you mean by rack and pinion now, probably the steering lock mechanism and you're right it's just like a rack and pinion.
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

Wheezer

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Re: Replacing Ignition Switch
« Reply #5 on: May 13, 2013, 07:58:30 AM »
Well, I got'er done. It turns out that the rack and pinion were just fine, it was the switch itself that was crispy. Strangest thing though, I had planned to change it all while I was in there. To get the rack and pinion out the lock cylinder needs to be removed, mine refused to come out. I even had a friend who used to service steering columns for a living, give it a go and "no joy". So I left the rack and pinion inplace (it was in good shape) and changed the switch only. All in happiness now. I did clean and lube everything while I was in there and it feels kind of strange now, smooth and easy to operate. That's not normal is it?

Wheezer

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Replacing Ignition Switch
« Reply #6 on: May 15, 2013, 07:38:30 PM »
from what i recall in the FSM it asks to remove the pinion first in order to pull the rack, never done it so i can't tell if it's normal or not.
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end