Topic: Replacing Dana 30 Axle U Joints

[Bounty Hunter]

'95 should be the larger 297 regardless of ABS.

I wouldn't bother with a locking hub kit.  They use small weak parts and will be the weak link if an otherwise decent axle.  If it's locking hubs you want, start building a Waggy d44 now.  You'll get your locking hubs, along with larger brakes, stronger axlehousing, more (affordable) high-steer options, better aftermarket support, deeper gear options, serviceable wheel bearings.

[Jeffy]

Hey Jeffy, I just stopped by my mom's and had a look at the 95 axle. it's a non ABS. Your right my 91 has 260's I was wrong, the 95 will still have the 297's even though it doesn't have ABS? If the 95 has 297's I can order the 5-760's for it then correct?

5-297x's as for all intensive purposes has been discontinued.  Spicer does not make them anymore.  They have officially been replaced with the 5-760's.  There is no difference externally.  5-790x's are stronger then the old 5-297x's so there is no reason to look for 5-297x joints.

I don't believe there were any requirements that forced ABS YJ's to have older style u-Joints. The XJ and ZJ were using the bigger joints already.  You can easily measure the caps and see the difference.

[sharpxmen]

...
  You might want to look into getting an XJ D30 which is also high pinion with the advantage of not having the disconnect housing.   

I remember reading somewhere that the housing with disconnect is stronger due to not having the long tube but i'm not sure how true  it is.

[neale_rs]

The disconnect D30 very likely is stiffer but it is also probably more likely to crack (how is stength defined?).  billavista in one of his articles said that he preferred the disconnect D30.  The non-disconnect axle would be easier to fab for custom link suspensions, and is lighter.  Those might be the only real advantages.

[sharpxmen]

this reminds me of the JK front axle which you're supposed to sleeve the long tube to prevent bending or cracking.

[Jeffy]

this reminds me of the JK front axle which you're supposed to sleeve the long tube to prevent bending or cracking.

Well on those the tube is a lot longer and it cracks inboard of the control arms/trackbar mount.

In all my years with Jeeps, I've never heard of anyone cracking their YJ D30 at the sleeve unless they were doing something stupid and in that case it's moot.

[SamsonJR]

Jeffy, I understand the 297's are no longer made, the 790's would be what I'd be putting in the axle's. I'm not going to be looking for 297's I just wanted to make sure that's what are in my 95 axle before I ordered parts. I'll measure the cap size tomorrow. as for a D44, I looked for one for a little bit, But came across this D30 for real cheap so that's what I picked up. Ideally I'd like to get a pair of D44's but I'm working with what I can find. Who knows, If I find a decent pair I'll hop on em. I was going to pick up a 8.8 explorer rear to replace the D35 eventually, But one thing at a time for me, I need this thing driveable first lol.

[SamsonJR]

Ok, some progress with my axles. Yesterday I started to take the 95 axle apart, My compressor's motor fried itself so no inpact gun. I ended up removing the 2 piece axle with the hub still attached. I have to remove the other side today, I'm going to pick up new joints from my driveshaft guy monday and replace them at my dad's shop. I want to remove the carrier in the 95 axle, its not budging. I read people use a pry bar to remove them, i also saw you can use a spreader attached to the pumpkin at the cover bolt holes. I'm sure my dad has one, I'll just use that, unless someone knows a good safe way to remove it? I'm thinking of replacing the seals on the axle in my jeep when I put in these axles. Should I go to Mopar to get them or are there better replacements? I Figure while I'm in there I may as well replace them, I don't want to put the axles in to have to tear it apart again to do the seals.

[Jeffy]

If you're prying you want to roll the carrier out of the diff.  It should roll towards you, just be sure you're ready to catch it.

[sharpxmen]

are the u-joints bad in the '95 shafts? just wondering, you could replace then as they are.

[SamsonJR]

hey guys, so today was my sisters 21st bday, not much jeep work lol. Jeffy, I called my dad to tell him my progress and ask about the axles and removing the carrier, he told me "most people using a separator do not use a dial indicator and end up messing up the pumpkin wile removing the carrier" he told me pry it out with a few rags at the contact point. and to keep track of the retainers and what side and direction they came off. So tomorrow I will remove it with a pry bar. Sharpmen, the 95 shafts are in fair condition, there not rebuilt but not nearly as worn as my 91's. I'm going to my driveshaft guy, who's a really good friend of my dad's monday. I'm going to see what he will charge to replace them, and if it's more then I can afford right now, then what the joints will cost. if they are reasonable I will either replace them or have him do them. I've never done them before but this isn't rocket science, I'm sure I could manage. My dad is telling me to replace the seals when I pull my axles to replace to the 95's. I've never done this either. I'm kind of nervous removing and replacing them to be honest. He said "messing with something that has been sitting for 20 + years, they  will not like it". He said wile your in there, just do them. what do you guys think? I've read of people trying 6 or more times getting these seals in right, and others doing it fine the first time. I have the tool to do it, but it still scares me lol.  Now when I swap the axles, can I leave in 91  intermediate shaft and the shift collar? or should I remove them and use the 95? One last thing, since I have 2 jeeps to work on now, I have to replace a wheel bearing on my Fiances 93. I found Timkin replacement hubs for cheap! I'm ordering 2 for her. wile I'm in there should I replace mine? or use what I have? Mine seem fine, But a second opinion wouldn't hurt. I'd like to use the ones I have considering the money spent on them could go towards my steering box, But I don't want to half a$$ my job either. Sorry for the long post and the silly questions, I'm learning, and would rather ask a lot of questions to do it right, then assume and do it wrong. thanks guys!

[Jeffy]

I'm not really sure why using the case spreader has anything to do with using a dial indicator.  IIRC the D35 has the shims after the bearing so yeah keep track of those.

[sharpxmen]

I'm not really sure why using the case spreader has anything to do with using a dial indicator.  IIRC the D35 has the shims after the bearing so yeah keep track of those.

you use a dial indicator to monitor how much you spread the pumpkin, although you could just spread slowly until you can pull the carrier.

[neale_rs]

Given that you will be building the 95 axle, it might be best to do just enough to use the 91 right now.  The bearings can be put on the 95 later so that would not be a double expense but the seals would be, double labor too.  The only reason for removing the carrier is to do the seals, so you could avoid that for now.

[sharpxmen]

Ok, some progress with my axles. Yesterday I started to take the 95 axle apart, My compressor's motor fried itself so no inpact gun. I ended up removing the 2 piece axle with the hub still attached. I have to remove the other side today .... I want to remove the carrier in the 95 axle, its not budging.

just occured to me that you might have a problem - you neeed to remove the shafts first before you can take the carrier out, based on what you said above sounds like you still have the driver's side shaft and the 1/2 shaft on the passenger side in there.