Topic: When did AA add a 21 Spline D300 Input shaft to the catalog?

[FourbangerYJ]

Hmm, I haven't seen many 241OR's for sale, though I haven't really looked.  If a D20 or even D300 can be done for $1500 or less I'd get more cred and that's all that matter, right? 

I have seen some 241OR's in the $1100-1200 range. What spline input do they have 23?

[sharpxmen]

The second link is a 3 speed manual with a D20 hooked to it.

geez, i don't know how i misread that (and i didn't have anything to drink either )

[Jeffy]

Tera makes a 3:15 kit. There are some 4 and 4:86 gears avail. but they are crazy spendy!
The idea behind the D20 is to put a reduction box infront of it. In my opinion a box with a 4:1. That way you have more choices in gears combo's.

The second link is a 3 speed manual with a D20 hooked to it.

Those are the Rock Lobster and Jeep Eater from years ago right?

Wouldn't you have the same or similar selection in gears either way you go?  Though putting lower gears in the D20 while doing a Klune would be expensive.

I have seen some 241OR's in the $1100-1200 range. What spline input do they have 23?

Yup 23 Spline only.

[FourbangerYJ]

Those are the Rock Lobster and Jeep Eater from years ago right?

Wouldn't you have the same or similar selection in gears either way you go?  Though putting lower gears in the D20 while doing a Klune would be expensive.
Yup 23 Spline only.

For the D20 the 4:1 and lower gears are in the $1600 range for the gears alone! So that kinda does not make sense on the money side. Tera has a 3:15 set but it's not low enough when you have a 2.72 Klune infront of it IMO. I think the perfect set up would be a 2.72 and a 4:1 or (4.3) set to choose from.
The 300 would be nice gear wise. 2.62. Not sure on how the length with a Klune would be.

[sharpxmen]

I have seen some 241OR's in the $1100-1200 range. What spline input do they have 23?

you can use a doubler in front of it with 21 spline input, still the billet option from the DDMachine guy comes to mind (i said Box4rocks but i was wrong EDIT: it is actually called box4rocks) as the cheapest in combo with a 241OR and using the 231 parts (and no need to buy a 21 spline input shaft). Only thing i don't know is how well it holds/lasts - i'd check the thread from pirate or jeepforum but can't remember the title or on which one of those sites it was.

EDIT: I take it back regarding the length, the combo will be too long, his doubler is built just like klune with the bolts on the outside, i thought it is like the blackbox-i where you have the bolts on the inside but they're on the outside and too long of a combo for that matter (i guess it has to clear the input shaft anyway, i was thinking of saving length but without an integrated output from doubler to input to t-case is not possible (how the blackbox-i is).
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/motor-tranny-t-case-performance/1075295-billet-planetary-doubler-699-box4rocks.html

[Jeffy]

Honestly, I don't think I need a doubler.  The only reason to add one would be to use as an an expensive adapter.  Though things can and do change.  Also seems that the if you want to modify the D20, parts are expensive and reinforcements needed unlike the D300.

How common are flipped D300 though.  There was a lot of hubbub for them several years back but now you don't hear about them.  Doesn't seem that popular an option anymore.  The fabrication is the one catch though.  I saw that someone on POR made a rail with some square stock for really cheap.  JB Conversions makes a 4:1 for $575.  AA shifters are $189.75.

I don't think a doubler and a NVG is a good choice when dealing with a SWB Jeep.  I know Klune recommended putting a David infront of a 231 with a HD SYE but that's a LONG setup.

[FourbangerYJ]

My buddy with a Klune in front of his plain old 231 with a standard SYE has had zero issues. He wheels it much harder than I do mine.

[Jeffy]

My buddy with a Klune in front of his plain old 231 with a standard SYE has had zero issues. He wheels it much harder than I do mine.

Has he moved his engine forward?  Otherwise, his driveshaft must be pretty short.  15"?

[FourbangerYJ]

Has he moved his engine forward?  Otherwise, his driveshaft must be pretty short.  15"?

He had Jason Bunch move it 7 inches.
I would think with the SS SYE's moving the motor would not be needed. They did not have them when he did his.

[Jeffy]

He had Jason Bunch move it 7 inches.
I would think with the SS SYE's moving the motor would not be needed. They did not have them when he did his.

Yeah, that's what Jason did.  I talked to Lou who did the install for Jason years ago.  He said I could fit it without doing more then a HD SYE but I've seen those shafts and they're small.

I'm going to keep an eye out for Ford D20's and D300's though.

[sharpxmen]

Honestly, I don't think I need a doubler.  The only reason to add one would be to use as an an expensive adapter.  Though things can and do change.  Also seems that the if you want to modify the D20, parts are expensive and reinforcements needed unlike the D300.

How common are flipped D300 though.  There was a lot of hubbub for them several years back but now you don't hear about them.  Doesn't seem that popular an option anymore.  The fabrication is the one catch though.  I saw that someone on POR made a rail with some square stock for really cheap.  JB Conversions makes a 4:1 for $575.  AA shifters are $189.75.

I don't think a doubler and a NVG is a good choice when dealing with a SWB Jeep.  I know Klune recommended putting a David infront of a 231 with a HD SYE but that's a LONG setup.

you don't need a flip kit to flip a D300 (check my thread), not to mention if you do it you'll lose the ability to clock it upwards, all you need a clocking ring and good (not rusted and not worn rails). If i'd do it again i would go with the new rails from AA (if they sell them without the shifters) and a set of cable shifters, there's a lot of fiddling around with the shifters the way I installed them to get them right, cable ones are straight forward. Only downside is the gear ratio, that's why i think an atlas 5:1 is probably the best option (to be honest 4:1 in the doubler is plenty low so 5:1 will give you a lot of options with all the 5 gears in the transmission)

[Jeffy]

OK so you left the shifters at the bottom.  I can see why you recommend going with cables.  I don't think I've seen anyone do a flip and not relocate the shifters.  Seems strange that others aren't doing it.  How far did you have to clock it so the shift rail wasn't under the yoke?



Looks like AA sells a cable kit for their Atlas; http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/advance-adapters-atlas-cable-shifters-p-4754.html

There's also these: http://www.northwestfab.com/Dana-300_c_82.html  by the description, they recommend using the reverse kit which has the longer lines even in a flip situation?  Seems that would be too long unless you're using a doubler.

[sharpxmen]

OK so you left the shifters at the bottom.  I can see why you recommend going with cables.  I don't think I've seen anyone do a flip and not relocate the shifters.  Seems strange that others aren't doing it.  How far did you have to clock it so the shift rail wasn't under the yoke?



Looks like AA sells a cable kit for their Atlas; http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/advance-adapters-atlas-cable-shifters-p-4754.html

There's also these: http://www.northwestfab.com/Dana-300_c_82.html  by the description, they recommend using the reverse kit which has the longer lines even in a flip situation?  Seems that would be too long unless you're using a doubler.

Others have done it, there's a guy selling the flip shifters (to use it as i installed it) on ebay, i looked at them way back when but decided will make my own, with his you would use the stock mountpoint for the shifters and i think you would have to keep it clocked more (but i'm not sure) - problem is that most of them have leaks since they keep the old rails and like me initially use the omix replacement seals which are extremely sucky, i can give you the part number for the other ones if you ever get to that point, they don't leak a bit but like i said I got brand new rails. The other thing i forgot to mention is that you need to modify the front shifter rail to allow for 2wd-hi/lo-front/rear.

mine was initially clocked 15 deg, but after the doubler install is only clocked about 5 or so. If you go by center shaft to center shaft is pretty much horizontal (look at the pic below between the rear output shaft and the cap for the front output and you'll see what i mean, the bottom is angled a bit more than the actual centers of the yoke shafts). I've had no issues shifting to hi/lo either front or rear. the shifters rods are positioned much better now and it aint touching anywhere (tested the driveshaft and is not even close.




the pic you posted is in the new clocking position, it was much worse before, it's aligned fairly well with about 1'' offset.

here's a better one with it installed in the jeep