Topic: New issues with the Jeep

[jfrabat]

As usual, fix something on the Jeep, and 3 more things pop up...  I now got the radios (CB and 2m) tuned and running (plus, I re-installed the linear amplifier for the CB), but now I have a couple of issues going on.  Oil pressure gauge is showing pressure pegged (AGAIN!  I am TIRED of changing this sensor!!!), water temperature gauge is fluctuating, and I got a CEl (code 23).

I am pretty sure the oil pressure is the sensor (has done it about a gazillion times).  The code 23 I think is the air temp sensor gone bad (this is the first time it does this, though).  The water temp could also be the sensor, but not 100% sure on that one.  Anyway, I am just rating.  So far, except for the gauges showin whacked numbers and teh CEL being on, the jeep is running just fine...

[bigal389]

I'm not sure if the 94 is the same but I had a similar issue with my 87, oil pressure was either pegged or not working at all, temp would fluctuate and the amps would always read low even after replacing the alternator , oil sender and temp switch. What I did was remove the gauge cluster then remove the brass nut that connected each respective  gauge to the ribbon on the back, cleaned all the contact areas with fine grit sandpaper wrapped around a pencil eraser til it shines then apply an oxide inhibitor and reassemble. All the gauges worked a lot better. The temp doesn't fluctuate, the amps are where they should be and the oil gauge has worked as it should. Hope this helps!
Al

[jfrabat]

Where exactly is this connector?  I think I will give this a shot!  After all, it jsut takes a little elbow grease!  Defenetly cheaper than replacing even more sensors!  And, since my votlage is always showing lower than it should (especially when I turn on the high speed on the AC), it seems I DO have the same symptoms!

[sharpxmen]

my guess was also a bad connection, for the oil pressure unless you get a mechanical gauge it won't be accurate (or maybe if you go with an expensive one). Autometer pro-comp mech oil pressure gauges are fairly priced and very accurate, I wouldn't run anything else.

[bigal389]

I have to pull my cluster out to replace a couple of bulbs tonight I'll try to post a couple of pictures tonight. If you pull your cluster out and look at the back side where the ribbon connects to all of the gauges the re is a black plastic piece with a stud that had a brass nut on it, remove the stud and gently pry the black plastic piece up and remove it, you will see the copper contact areas on the ribbon and the plastic piece clean them all (mine had turned green from corrosion in a couple of places) then use an electrical oxide inhibitor to keep it from corroding again. Be careful when you reassemble everything, the stud is what holds your gauge in place, if it pushes in to far you will have to take the lens off to get back in place. It gives  a little piece of mind when your gauges act as they should.
Al

[jfrabat]

Here's the video of the temp gauge...

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/4nN_ie6kBcI" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="bbc_link bbc_flash_disabled new_win">http://www.youtube.com/v/4nN_ie6kBcI</a>
Sorry, but I could not get it to show on preview...

[bigal389]

That's pretty much how my oil gauge was acting but it would peg out the drop back down.

[Jeffy]

I'd suspect the sender for the oil gauge.  Check the connector for the temp.  It's just behind #4 on the head, pointing up.  Should be one wire, IIRC.

If you're creative you could take the stock gauge out of the cluster and see if you can get a regular gauge to fit with some cutting and gluing.  Otherwise make a bracket and then replace all of the gauges with some decent ones with new senders.  The PCM doesn't get a signal from that temp sensor.  I don't think the oil pressure gauge is connected either but check a FSM.

[jfrabat]

I have always wanted to change the gauges to Autometer ones, but that's expensive, so for the time being, they are staying stock...

[sharpxmen]

I have always wanted to change the gauges to Autometer ones, but that's expensive, so for the time being, they are staying stock...

actually they're cheap (you'd be surprised). the digital/full sweep ones are expensive, the mechanical and short sweep are reasonable.

[jfrabat]

actually they're cheap (you'd be surprised). the digital/full sweep ones are expensive, the mechanical and short sweep are reasonable.

Well, yes and no...  You see, I have to do things right.  So, to do it right, you need the dash panels:
driver $58.97
center $58.97

Then you need the gauges (and, again, I REALLY like their Phantom gauges, which is what I would use!):
Speedometer $207.97
Tachometer 124.97
Fuel $48.97 (not sure this is the right one)
Water Temp $54.97
Oil Pressure $69.97
Volt Meter $49.97
Wide Band Air/Fuel Ratio $243.97

That totals $918.73 and it does not even include the shipping and importing to Panama...  Even if I leave out the wideband and replace it with a clock (which goes for $72.97), it still comes out to $747.73.  That's expensive for me...

Again, I know what you mean; if you replace just one, it is not that bad, but IF I were to do it, I would do it right or not do it at all.  And that means dropping another $1K into my Jeep for something that is not really needed at this time...

Felipe

EDIT: Looks like the Phantom II are the ones that change color; those are the ones I am looking for...  And those are a bit more expensive!

[sharpxmen]

i wouldn't recommend the speedo/tach part since you'll need to do way more than just installing the 2 in the dash, for the gauge cluster in the pro-comp line (EDIT: I meant sport-comp and not pro-comp, phantom is nice but you're right you would need the speedo/tach to match)
Fuel Level - $50
Water Temp - $55
Oil Pressure (Mechanical #3321) - $56
Voltmeter - $47

and you need to add one as the cluster has 5 spots (the 5th one in the Jeep is the 4wd indicator)  - a good choice would be Vacuum #3384 at $55 (which is for the manifold air pressure, great tool to understand the load on the engine, airplanes have this as a standard instrument), Compressor Air Pressure, Fuel Pressure or AFR

EDIT: what i mean by the speedo/tach is that you'll need to fab the center part with all the indicator lights, they are part of the same unit in the stock form.

[grumpygy]

To Get a good oil pressure sender I needed to buy a factory one.  Fixed mine a couple of years ago and still good.

  Temp sender look at the connection at the head like was said look for Corrosion or busted connection at the sending unit.  They break way to easy.

 

[bigal389]

As promised

[bigal389]

As promised! Remove this black piece and clean all the contact points to a bright copper coat with inhibitor and re assemble
Sorry for the double post