Topic: Got myself some 19lb injectors.

[Jeffy]

Ok, does anyone know how to take teh cap off the injector?  I've asked a few and no one has come back to me on it.  They look like they just clip on but it's requiring a lot of force and still doesn't pop off.

I know what you are saying about getting the cap off. They are on there pretty good. I am wondering why are you trying to take if off? Not trying to question you just wondering if there is something that I missed. I would suggest maybe sending them out to be rebuilt. There are a number of places that will do it for 12-15 per injector. That is with new O rings and all. For what ever the kit cost that you bought it may be worth taking that back and getting them rebuilt.

This thread is a bit confusing since there are three threads on the subject.  The whole purpose of this project is to keep it cheap so anyone and everyone can do it.  The reasoning behind removing the caps is to replace the O-rings and seals.  Some where torn when they were removed.  The injectors were only $16 shipped.  Seal kits are $3 a set and costs nothing.  It's cheap insurance to replace all of the seals and O-rings now then having to take it apart a second time to redo them.



BTW: I figured out how to take the caps off.  It was fairly painless but took more effort then you'd think.  I noticed the new cap seal and spacer don't roll around on the end if the injector anymore either.  So all I need to do now is depressureize the fuel rail then take it off and swap the injectors.  I might do this theis weekend since I've got some free time.

So car the project adds up like this;

Injectors - $16 (thanks dexetr30)
Seal Kit - $2.97 x 4 (Online they're $2.19)
4 O-rings - $3.99 (bought these before I found the kits.)

So it's around $27 right now, not including the extra O-rings.

[Jeffy]

Well, they're in.  That's about all I can say right now.  Took it around the block and didn't really notice any difference.  Getting those injectors in and out was a PITA too.  Overall I'd give this a 5/10.  Lots of PITA here and tehre to make it more difficult then it should be.  Not to mention no one had a decent writeup and the FSM is very vague at best.

Let me get some miles on them and I'll probably hace something better to say.

[Jeffy]

I haven't noticed much difference, at least in the lower RPM's.  I need to see how well it does over 3000RPM.  Maybe I should reset my computer once more, just to be sure.

I did manage to get a parking ticket today though!  

[jwrape]

I wanna hear if it runs rich or not. Mine didn't at first but did after about 3-4 days of driving and the computer adjusted.

[warro]

How do you reset the computer? Just dis connect the battery or is there something else?

[Jeffy]

How do you reset the computer? Just dis connect the battery or is there something else?

Disconnect the battery for a few minutes.  I forget if you're supposed to ground the positive or not.  Still leaving the battery disconnected for a few minutes will be sufficent.

[dexetr30]

So what's the word Jeffy? Notice any differences so far? I've been a bit to busy to do the swap myself. As soon as I can get out of the philadelphia area and head back home I can get back on a few unfinished projects. Let us know what you've experienced so far.

[Jeffy]

So what's the word Jeffy? Notice any differences so far? I've been a bit to busy to do the swap myself. As soon as I can get out of the philadelphia area and head back home I can get back on a few unfinished projects. Let us know what you've experienced so far.

I haven't driven the Jeep in a while so I haven't been able to test it.  Although it fired up fine when I did drive it.

[Jeffy]

Well, I've got a few more miles on the setup and did a few more hills.  Here's what I think.

For $30, it's worth it so far.  I don't notice the change much at the lower RPM's but when you get over 2500rpms and up to 3000rpm's, it's more noticable.  On the freeway it didn't seem to lug as much in 5th as it once did.  On another route, I did a loong hill that starts off gradual then climbs and snakes a bit.  I was holding it in 4th at 3000+ rpms all the way up.  I know if I don't rev it up, or run up to someone slow I'll be in 3rd.

I haven't noticed any gas mileage difference but then again I haven't gone through a full tank.

[Gr8Ride]

New to this so I hope I'm posting correctly and in the 19lb injector thread.  I noticed in the picture that the blue plastic cap (unit on the right) looks larger than the presumably stock unit on the left.  If that's the case, how does it seat properly in the intake?

[Jeffy]

New to this so I hope I'm posting correctly and in the 19lb injector thread.  I noticed in the picture that the blue plastic cap (unit on the right) looks larger than the presumably stock unit on the left.  If that's the case, how does it seat properly in the intake?

They are actually about the same size.  I've got a lot more pictures but haven't had time to write it up yet.  The only part that does seat is the O-ring really.  The rest of the injector is held in place by the fuel rail.

[Gr8Ride]

Thanks.  I bought a set of holley injectors for the ford (yellow 19lbs) and they came with the same blue caps.  Actually, some were tan, but anyway, I compared the two (old and new) before attempting the replacement.  I noticed the size difference right off the bat and wondered if there was something left inside my intake?  There is no way the new injectors will go in if I leave these caps on.  Also, I wondered why they weren't metal, like the original injector tips.  Just don't see how they'll fit...and I've tried, with the plastic blue (or tan) cap on.  And both old and new look exactly like the photo you posted.  SO......  If I wrestle the blue cap off, making the injector fit into the hole and seat properly (depth as well), will it leak?  The only difference I see is in the thickness of the blue cap.  If I simply push them in until they bottom out on the plastic, there would be an 1/8 inch or so difference in how far down the nozzle or pintle is into the intake.  Thanks for your assistance, just don't want to screw anything up or worse yet, have a fire.

[Jeffy]

All of my Ford OEM injectors I got had the brown caps.  I changed them to blue when I bougth new seal ktis ofr them all.  The color of the cap doesn't mean much.  The stock Denso injectors caps are metal because that's what they used.  Interesting thing though, the cap and O-ring kit I got will work on Jeep injectors among other things.  For and most others I've seen use plastic caps.

From what I've experianced the injector does not bottom out in the intake.  It only goes in around half way.  What holds it in place is that the clip on the injector is attached to the rail and the rail is bolted down to the intake.  You shouldn't be able to push them into the hole easily.  It's a really tight fit and the O-ring might bind.  I  ended up mounting them into the rail and using the rail to press them in.

I think I said this before but, the Denso injectors don't or didn't seat all the way into the hole.  You don't want to take the cap off because that's what keeps the O-ring from slipping off.  It wouldn't be good if it got sucked into the engine.

How much did you pay for those Holley Injectors?  This mod with ebay parts and rebuild kit only cost me $25-30.  That's for 4 injectors where Dexetr split with me.  I'm not sure if this would be worth it to do with new parts although.  It definatly doesn't make it a cheap swap anymore.  I like the low budget approach.

[Gr8Ride]

Well sir, I bought the set off e-bay after following a few of the threads here before I became a member.  Less than $40 for 8 and that included shipping.  I went to the wrecking yard today and picked up a 4.0 TB and air intake.  My spacer came yesterday so I pulled the 2.5L off, ground away the intake materiel to meet the gasket and beveled it.  Switched all the electronics off my 2.5 TB and bolted it up.  Idled a bit high (1000) then came down after a trip around the block.  Didn't really notice any difference to be honest.  So, in my haste, I decided to try the injectors.  I looked into the intake where the injectors go and the hole was only large enough for the tip of the injector to fit through.  The o-ring and nylon seal fit inside the larger opening.  Had to take the plastic cap off the end of the injectors to make them seat properly.  I tried to make them work but it was obvious by the scarring on the plastic tip that they were not going in that way.  The O-ring was extremely tight.  Put a little tranny fluid on them and the uppers to try making the job easier.  COULD NOT put them in your way.  Was a SOB on the top side.  Actually ruined two o-rings trying to get them up into the fuel rail.  After all four were in the top, I actually placed the o-ring and washer into the intake and then worked all four into place at nearly the same time.  Bolted all down and It bolted tight - not as if there was any slack at all from the removal of the caps...it went together very tight.  Reconnected the battery, pressurized the systed (this was attempt # 2 as I did all this before when I noticed the fuel pouring out from the torn o-ring) and no leaks.  Fired it up (so to speak) and let her idle, no leaks.  Went around the block.  Noticed an incredible jump in throttle response.  Low end torque through the roof.  Got on her and man does she respond.  Hit 4K easily 1st-3rd nothing flat!  70mph at 3K in 5th so gears are low (stock 225 tires as well) so no top end to measure.  Most impressive throttle response - more so than with the 4.0 TB alone.  Moves along with a lot less throttle effort than previously.  Kind of bogs down if you don't let her warm up though- almost a backfire.  Still no leaks so I think I'm OK.  Looking at putting 31" tires on so the tire height may help my top end a bit.  On a side note, had to make a trip to the hardware store for a 2" rubber sleeve (with hose clamps attached) and a 2" PVC sleeve (worked it in the rubber sleeve and into the intake tube) to give me that little I needed to connect the 4.0L air intake.  Think I'll encounter any probs with this setup?

[tttppp54]

do these injectors only work on yj's?