Topic: replacing seal in transfer case

[dan684]

my rear pinion seal is leaking.  how hard is it to replace?  im very mechanically inclined so i know i can do it im just wondering how much i will hav to tear down to replace it

[Bounty Hunter]

See the need for the TC drop or SYE now? :shock:  

It's easy, remove the driveshaft.  Pry the old seal out and tap in the new one.  I use a little RTV around the seal where it slids into the tailcone, and a little grease around the seal for when the slipyoke goes in.

Your seal could be leaking because you don't have enough spline engagement of the slipyoke.  It'll likely leak again soon unless something is done.

And it's called the TC rear output, pinions are in the differentials (and they have seals too).

[dan684]

i already have a tc drop i was asking if i could remove it and be ok.  i think it is leaking due to dargging the driveshaft and rear diff beacause my tires are too small....lol

[Woodyhfd]

I changed one for the first time this morning on my 97.

Remove the driveshaft.

Make reference marks at the 6 o'clock position on the pinion, pinion nut, yoke and your 1 1/8" socket. Then count the number of turns the nut makes as you remove it. (Tightening the nut the same number of turns will give you a reasonable approximation of the origional torque on the nut).  Remove the yoke and the old seal, grease up the new one and tap it into place. Grease the splines, replace the yoke, then put some Loctite on the threads and tighten the nut up to it's original position.

Two tips:

1) Get yourself a seal puller ($9.99 from Advance Auto Parts). The right tool makes the job so much easier. I couldn't pry mine out with a screwdriver but the puller just popped it right out.

2) Don't tap directly on the new seal. Use a piece of pipe that fits around the pinion so the force is spread evenly around the whole seal. Otherwise, you will distort the new seal. Try using a "double female" pipe fitting from Home Depot.

Check out this link:
http://www.jeepingsingles.net/tech/pinionseal.asp

[Bounty Hunter]

Woody, decent tech but the thread is about the TC seal, no pinion nut or related torque issues.

When replacing a D35 pinion seal, it's best to use a lb./in. wrench to set the preload on the pinion.  Good instructions HERE.

[YJmechanic]

for the first time that was pretty well thought out.  good job even though we got away from the topic a little.  

as for the transfer case seal it is also helpful to spread vasoleen inside the inner edge of the seal before install to stop the seal from folding  plus when the vasoleen heats up it will pretty much just blend in to the oil and not turn into clumps like grease does.  but the seal puller is good and also the pipe idea or a seal installer if you have access to one makes it simple.

[Woodyhfd]

Bounty Hunter, et al:

Sorry I missed the part about it being a T-case seal.

I wish I had those instructions before I started. I looked everywhere but couldn't find anything. My Haynes manual didn't offer much detail.

The reason that I chose to use the marking and clocking method is that I had no access to a half inch drive torque wrench that reads in inch pounds. I suspect that after 115 k, my pinion preload is a little off anyway. At some point, I'll let the pros get their hands on it. Right now, I just need to get back on, or rather, off the road.

[YJmechanic]

you should be able to find specs for ft lbs not inch.  and most of the "pros" just do it by feel anyway.  its how i do it.

[Jeffy]

you should be able to find specs for ft lbs not inch.  and most of the "pros" just do it by feel anyway.  its how i do it.

You set the pinion bearing preload by feel?  This is with the whole crush sleeve deal and not shims.  Shims are a snap and goodntight works.

[YJmechanic]

when you change the pinion seal you don't replace the crush washer and you are really only setting it back to where it was.  mind you this is for the seal only and not done when actual gearing problems exist.  don't get me wrong when i install gears and other diff work specs are used.