Author Topic: "DIY Jeep painting and color matching" Follow up  (Read 13173 times)

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chrisfranklin

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Re: "DIY Jeep painting and color matching" Follow up
« Reply #15 on: April 23, 2007, 09:13:15 AM »
How about it Mozman, "Are you ever going to get pictures with this post?"   Maybe when there is something worth photographing  :lol:   :twofingers:

Offline Mozman68

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Re: "DIY Jeep painting and color matching" Follow up
« Reply #16 on: April 23, 2007, 09:15:35 AM »
 :puzzled:
2009 Audi S5....what....its 4wd...sort of....

chrisfranklin

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Re: "DIY Jeep painting and color matching" Follow up
« Reply #17 on: September 14, 2007, 08:56:57 PM »
Alright Alright, Mozman's going to get his photos.   :lol:  Looks like I was a little short to him last time. Trying to fill,  sand, prime, paint and clearcoat one's Jeep all by hand, over many days and weeks, in less than ideal conditions (remote location 20 miles away from residence) in addition to job demands, life, etc can overload your patience and crash your social skills  :lol:  My apologies to Mr. Mozman. 

I finished out the basic bodywork on the Jeep pretty well using Evercoat filler.  I filled and sanded to completion 5 major sections -- left rear corner, under driver door, left and right fender, and hood-top.  Then I did the same with a couple of minor spots.  Looks like its going to be a good foundation for the rest of the work -- finer sanding, priming, painting.

Like I said, I did this all by hand.  And it turns out that might have been a decent idea for somebody inexperienced working with plastic filler.  Reason being is that I probably would have carved into the filler too deeply with the sander and would have had "re-fill" a second or even third time.  Doing it by hand, let me get close to the level I wanted and then I could sand a few strokes at a time until I was certain that the surface was right.

Now, don't know if you guys have any experience, post-filler, with the Putty application + 320-400 grit paper.  This Putty fills any scratches from the 40-80 grit paper used to shape the filler and it also fills any pores in the filler. 

I had a bad session with it the other day:  I would apply it in small dabs and then spread it on the area with a plastic spatula.  The stuff dries extremely fast though.  To cover every area on a large surface like the hood caused me to partially overlap coats of the putty! 

I ended up in a situation where the the putty was built up too thickly in many areas and was now not drying in those areas.  I started going at it with 320 but was not making progress.  I ended up switching to 40-60 to tear  down the built-up putty only to find that it was not drying where it had overlapped!! :brick: 

Ultimately, I got things down to where I could smooth the surface with the 320 and it came out ok.  But, in the daylight today, I noticed that I still had numerous 40-80 grit-made scratches to fill.  The way I figure it, in order to lay down thin coats of the puddy in a professional fashion, I am going to have to do this probably over most of a day, just doing small sections at a time until the surface imperfections are completely filled.

 After that I may sand and prime the Jeep and then take some time away from it before I gear up for the paint and clearcoat stages :gimp:



   

Offline aw12345

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Re: "DIY Jeep painting and color matching" Follow up
« Reply #18 on: September 14, 2007, 10:35:37 PM »
Chris just remember that a lot of putties kinda shrink a little over time. So scratches and small imperfections will show up again same happens with several coats of primer. The best bet is to get the bondo to go on without pinholes if possible
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chrisfranklin

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Re: "DIY Jeep painting and color matching" Follow up
« Reply #19 on: September 15, 2007, 12:07:30 AM »
Good advice.  And I took it and actually did ok with very few pinholes this time. 

What's putting up the fight are these gouges from the 40-60 grit paper.  I followed directions and used that grit paper to level the Evercoat.  And it did a nice job.  Just that the 40-60 grit scratches run through the filler and on to the sheet metal.  By the time I get done, my Jeep is going to be half-red with the putty and I am probably not going to have time to painted immediately!

I figured that this putty business was going to be a quick and easy follow up after the filler and sanding; maybe a couple hours at most.  I think I confused this putty process with spackling screws after putting up drywall. :'( :lol:
Problem here is that the "screws" I am covering-over in this case are about 16 square feet in area (due to all the scratches)

I am figuring I am going to have to do the putty in 2 or 3 efforts that may take a full day or two.  Its all good, outdoor exercise though  :lol:

chrisfranklin

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Re: "DIY Jeep painting and color matching" Follow up
« Reply #20 on: September 30, 2007, 07:43:01 PM »
It took me a couple of days, but I finished off a few things:

A) Bodywork -  Additional Evercoat filler work plus Evercoat putty application (this putty is way easier to work with versus Bondo Putty.  Me and Bondo Putty  :brick:)
B)  Sanding - Filler and entire body
C) Masking and Primer application.  Ended up doing the entire Jeep in Grey primer out of concern that the topcoat might not seem consistent on a body only partially coated with primer -- ie. if I just primed the areas where I did  bodywork. 

Only thing is that my use of the primer was a kind of a mid-course correction in the paint process.  I was planning to just go straight to a polyurethane enamel topcoat after doing the bodywork and sanding.  But the bodywork and adjacent areas still had some scratches that made primer seem like a necessary move if I wanted to do a complete job.

Of course, the Rustoleum Primer I used is a water-based enamel.  I am not certain of its compatibility with the Blue Water Marine Polyurethane Enamel I have (I sent the Blue Water people an inquiry on this; may require the Rusty primer to cure for 30 days or something).  If the blue water is a no go then I'll just go with Rustoleum Black Gloss Topcoat, resell the Poly and leave it at that. 

Anyway, even with just the bodywork done and the Jeep entirely coated just in Rustoleum Primer (which effectively looks white), the effect is impressive.   Looks professionally done (at least when viewed at 5ft away or going by at 5mph  :lol:)

Will post the first round of photos tommorrow. 

Jesse-James

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Re: "DIY Jeep painting and color matching" Follow up
« Reply #21 on: October 01, 2007, 12:34:48 AM »

Will post the first round of photos tommorrow. 

Promises, promises.

chrisfranklin

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Re: "DIY Jeep painting and color matching" Follow up
« Reply #22 on: October 01, 2007, 09:47:07 PM »
Here's some photos.  Hopefully this link works.  Just hit the slideshow button.  First 3 photos are my heap "before" with the worn out original black paint.  Second two photos are from yesterday -- post bodywork, sanding and primer application. 

http://www1.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=177059492/a=107729777_107729777/t_=107729777

I am going to stick with gloss or semi-gloss black as the top-coat.   

Jesse-James

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Re: "DIY Jeep painting and color matching" Follow up
« Reply #23 on: October 02, 2007, 05:21:54 AM »
Sorry, not going to register with the site to see the pics.

chrisfranklin

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Re: "DIY Jeep painting and color matching" Follow up
« Reply #24 on: October 02, 2007, 06:13:22 AM »
Sorry about that.  That's a rip

I am going to have to launder the photos through some kind of compression software that will shrink them down.  Or alter settings. 

They are POS cell camera photos at 256k per and the limit is 125k. 

Jesse-James

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Re: "DIY Jeep painting and color matching" Follow up
« Reply #25 on: October 02, 2007, 06:46:50 AM »
Go to photobucket.

chrisfranklin

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Re: "DIY Jeep painting and color matching" Follow up
« Reply #26 on: October 02, 2007, 06:56:08 AM »
I worked with it a little more.  These are the pre-body work, sand, prime

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chrisfranklin

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Re: "DIY Jeep painting and color matching" Follow up
« Reply #27 on: October 02, 2007, 06:57:29 AM »
These are post body-work, sand, prime

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Offline Jeffy

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Re: "DIY Jeep painting and color matching" Follow up
« Reply #28 on: October 02, 2007, 09:36:14 AM »
If that primer is anything like most other primers, it will pull moisture from the air if left exposed.  It's always best to spray a light coast of paint if you're not going to be working with it for a while.
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chrisfranklin

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Re: "DIY Jeep painting and color matching" Follow up
« Reply #29 on: October 02, 2007, 03:22:58 PM »
Jeffy, JesseJames

The writeups on the Rustoleum/Tremclad as AutoPaint Topcoats direct that you thin the paint with mineral spirits by 20-50% to insure fast drying and sandability within a reasonable timeframe -- say 8 hours.  One write-up suggested that applying unthinned Rustoleum as the topcoat would delay sanding (of topcoat) for months!

Like I said, I wasn't planning on using a primer (and none of the write-ups really brought it up unless maybe its a topic that most painters think goes without saying after undertaking "bodywork").  But I put some effort in to the attention to bodywork and manual sanding and didn't want to end up with a half-a$$ed end result that I could have avoided with a primer coat.

The Rustoleum primer can suggested that I could paint over the un-thinnned primer within 2 hours after its application. You think, however, that I should hold off on the topcoat for a while, say weeks/months?  Or,  you think that, because sanding is not an issue with the primer, that I can immediately begin with the topcoat? 

Jeffy mentioned the moisture issue with the primer, also.  And I also have paint compatibility concerns -- Rustoleum Primer is water based and the Topcoat paint I have is Blue Water Marine Paint, a Polyurethane Enamel (no mention of its water or oil base or compatibility with water based primer). Would have gone with the Interlux poly as write-up suggested, but Interlux didn't sell a gloss black.  Perhaps I make much issue about nothing regarding paint compatibility though. :beers: