Topic: quick axle question

[Jeffy]

One more thing about the axle swaps! I can't remember where I read this at but the gist was that larger axle tubes can change your height by up to 5/8 of an inch?  Has anyone ever run into this?


Yes, you will get less lift when SUA and more when SOA if you increase the axle DIA. size.

[officer mike]

Right now I have Hyperutectic pistons from sivolite part # 3238hc you can get stock .30 and .60. These are a little stronger than cast and run about $150 for a set.  You will have to call them to get a dealer local to you. Also they do not come with rings. www.kb-silvolite.com    If you plan on raising compression or using forced induction you will probably need forged pistons.  Flatlander racing will custom make those for you if you want them but they are around $500 for a set and take 6 weeks to get.  Hope that helps.

I will probably stick with the 4.88s right now to keep costs down too.  I plan to change the rear axle to d44s or the 8.8s but will probably leave the d30 up front for now.  The engine, rear axle, lift and tires are enough for a while!

Thanks.. so what do I do about rings?

[damon54]

What ever auto parts dealer you get the pistons from should be able to match you up with rings.  I got some hastings rings but I can't recall what the part # was (the rings are at the machine shop right now).  I will be heading down to the shop sometime this week and I will try to get the part # on those.

[officer mike]

Thanks Damon



Today I scored an 8.8. Its from an 01 explorer and it had 4.10s so let me know if anyone wants that gearset pretty cheap. It has disc brakes and it has the facotry limited slip. The guy said it was a locker but I think that he meant limited slip. Anyway it cost me 250. So I guess I have to purchase the axle kit from either tera or M O R E or rubicon express. I am going to get the clayton long arms and that comes with the truss which has the upper mounts on them. is there a way to get away with out buying the bracket kit? or just the coil buckets? Also with 6 inches of lift will I need to do something with my shock mounts? Thanks guys

[Jeffy]

Thanks Damon



Today I scored an 8.8. Its from an 01 explorer and it had 4.10s so let me know if anyone wants that gearset pretty cheap. It has disc brakes and it has the facotry limited slip. The guy said it was a locker but I think that he meant limited slip. Anyway it cost me 250. So I guess I have to purchase the axle kit from either tera or M O R E or rubicon express. I am going to get the clayton long arms and that comes with the truss which has the upper mounts on them. is there a way to get away with out buying the bracket kit? or just the coil buckets? Also with 6 inches of lift will I need to do something with my shock mounts? Thanks guys

You are correct it's an Eaton Limited Slip Differential.

[officer mike]

Hey Jeffy Do you know how well it works? Thanks

[jagular7]

Since you are going LA, you could look into transferring the spring pads over from axle to axle. You lower control arm mounts could be made from box tubing and cut to fit the tube. You are going to probably have to bring the rear axle under the Jeep, get a measurement for the ds/pinion angles, figure to move the axle as far back as possible (don't forget if you adding a thicker cover to it) and spot them in. That way, you can actually take use of the LA geometry. For your shocks, I'd suggest that you consider to relocate them directly behind the control arm mount. Angle them to a mount that is 'outside' the frame. Basically take the Ford F250 shock mount (it's close to 1/4" thick), cut your frame to fit it, weld it in the frame and angle enough to have articulation clearance. Remember articulation is the twisting of the axle against itself. Droop and compression is part of the measurement, but you have other considerations when the axle is articulating. If you do a search on JeepsUnlimited, you'll see about what I'm suggesting for the shock relocation. I wouldn't use the stock configuration. The stock mount is not sturdy enough for the long travel and the shock interferes with the spring mount.

[officer mike]

Since I am going to have a cv ds, the rear pinion has to be aimed at the transfer. my question is should weld my spring buckets a little more forward on the axle, and maybe do something with the shock mounts? Thanks guys. Mike

[Jeffy]

Hey Jeffy Do you know how well it works? Thanks

I believe it's a clutch type differential.  It has springs that press against the clutches.

Since I am going to have a cv ds, the rear pinion has to be aimed at the transfer. my question is should weld my spring buckets a little more forward on the axle, and maybe do something with the shock mounts? Thanks guys. Mike

Do you have poly or rubber mounts on your control arms?  If so you might want to add 1-2* to the pinion angle so it's slightly less(ie. down) then the driveshaft angle.  This is done because when rotational torque is applied the axle housing will want to rotate in the opposite direction as the rotation.  I'm not sure if this still applies to solid joints but I would assume it wouldn't hurt either.  Tom even mentions it;

NOTE: To prevent drive shaft tensional vibrations your net "U" joint angle at the differential end should be less than 3 degrees. It will be better to leave the pinion tail a little downward rather than too far upward to allow for natural spring wrap.

As for the buckets, I'd probably rotate them so they are inline.  A couple degrees shouldn't really matter though. With the shock mounts, I would rotate them up so they aren't hanging below the axle tube.  This gets them out of the way.  It's just one less then to get hung up on.  Stock position isn't really critical so you can move them a bit.