Topic: Gear DIY Tips Please

[Greatwhite]

Debating taking on installing a set of gears front and rear, just want to have a rough idea of what im getting my self into, i have no doubt in my ability of actually putting the gear set in, its the adjustment that i have questions about.  Is it as easy as paying atention to the shims in place on the stock gear set and placing them in the same spots with the new gears?

[Jeffy]

Have you don't anything remotely similar?  Rebuilt an engine?  Gears are about 50% skill and 50% luck.  Sometimes you'll get lucky and have the correct shims other times you'll have to redo them over and over and over.  Cheater/setup bearings are a must though.  Getting good gears is also a plus.  Good gears will have the shim size etched into the pinion.  Setting the pinion depth is the hardest part.  Once that's setup then setting the carrier is a lot easier.  The other problem is setting up the crush sleeve.  On a YJ you have one,  on a TJ you have two.  These require >300lbs to just start crushing the sleeve.  You will need a lbs-in torque wrench (not lbs-ft) to make sure the bearing preload is correct.  I dial type is probably best since they are the most accurate.  A swing beam would also work.  You can't use a clicker type though.  Crush the sleeve a little then recheck the preload. Crush a little then check.  It's a PITA.  Over do it and you have to get a new sleeve and start over.  Some axles have shim replacement kits but the Dana's don't.

If you can find someone to install the gears for under $200 each, I'd consider it.

[Greatwhite]

I have rebuilt a small block chevy with no issues, but it does sound like there is alot going on inside there.  This is something i have always just payed to have done, never even considered doing it my self, but thought i would dig in a little bit and see if it was a possibility, hmm did some searching on google was hoping to find a step by step walkthrough with pics  no luck.  Sounds like i just need to give West Coast Differential a call.

[chrisfranklin]

If you don't use your Jeep as a daily, you have a garage, a place to work, all the right tools and few interruptions, your odds of pulling it off successfully probably double.  Even then, its probably still a monster that you'd probably want a bud or two helping out with (even if its just for moral support  ). 

To me, though, it sounds like one of those things that, if you've never done it before, you probably don't want to try it yourself.  Almost a Catch-22 unless you've helped other people do theres or done the same on other cars and trucks.

[Greatwhite]

Well heres the thing, i have a real good buddy of mine that is a master tech at a ford dealership, he is an amazing mechanic, talked to him about giving me a hand, and he didnt know how similar the dana's are in comparison to a ford set up as thats what he works on mostly.  So i thought i would do a little research before buying the parts.

[wrangler387]

If the jeep is not your daily driver, then definately try and do the gears yourself. Or if you can purchase a second axle to regear/lock etc.. and then swap out the one under your jeep for it, then i say go for it. If you understand how/why things work, have tools, time, and want to try it yourself, then go for it. One day when I get to a point that I can swap in new axles and upgrade i plan to do the gears myself, but i wouldn't do the axles under my daily driver since i have no experience.

[aw12345]

If your Ford mechanic buddy has done differentials then it should be a snap for him a differential is a differential.
All you need is the specs a pointer or dial inch/pound torque wrench a regular torque wrench a shim set bearings would help a foot/ pound torquewrench something to hold the yoke while collapsing the spacer on the pinion a socket that fits the pinion yoke nut somekind of paint or marking compound to read the the gear contact a dial indicator with magnetic base an axle spreader if you can find one. Don't need it but makes it easier.
On the Pinion there are generally markings say if it has +1 on the old one and -2 on the new one that would mean you would remove 0.003" of the pinion depth shim pack those are the shims that are underneath the large pinion bearing. if both have no markings then you don't add or remove any shims ie no markings means zero.
Hope this helps, once you have done one its really not a big deal it can just be a bit time consuming to get it right.
There are some good writeups on Pirate4x4.com

Art

[might4banger]

I did my own... hardest was the 8.8 due to the crush sleeve and I did not use a lift. I had to make a "holder" for the yoke flange to crush the crush sleeve.

Helps a lot to make a set of set up bearing so you are not pressing on & off all the time.

I used a dremel on the original bearings - to make the set up bearings.

Borrowed a friends press, lift, breaker bar and big AZZ vice.

Got the Harbor Freight split bearing puller and borrowed a 3 prong type. Beefed up the split puller with grade 8 hardware.

Takes lots of "speciality tools" and patience...

Start with the original shims as a reference.

Also, replace your axle U-joints while you have the shafts out.

Not a fun job, but, rewarding when complete...

Good luck!