Author Topic: Turbochargers  (Read 109978 times)

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Offline Jeffy

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Re: The Official turbo thread
« Reply #105 on: June 27, 2008, 03:58:12 PM »
Actually, IIRC from one of the many louver threads that popped up on the web several years ago. the low pressure spots are still on the sides of the engine.  Mostly along the crease where the hood bumps up in the center.  Most common place to see louvers is up front jsut behind the radiator support and in the back near the firewall.

Still, a top mounted intercooler isn't as efficient as the front mounted ones.  If you really want to be fancy then you could go with a V mounted intercooler.
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99tj2.5l

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Re: The Official turbo thread
« Reply #106 on: June 29, 2008, 11:04:52 AM »
Thanks for the input, i probably sould go for function over form but that still would be probably the sickest way to do it. I looked up the sti hood scoop and its not just a scoop there they have some sort of bellows  :puzzled: probably to correct that very problem. But front mount it is the pluming just seem a little wastefull if that makes sence on the front mount piping the air all around the engine compartment.

Offline jfrabat

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Re: The Official turbo thread
« Reply #107 on: June 30, 2008, 10:19:06 AM »
Actually, IIRC from one of the many louver threads that popped up on the web several years ago. the low pressure spots are still on the sides of the engine.  Mostly along the crease where the hood bumps up in the center.  Most common place to see louvers is up front jsut behind the radiator support and in the back near the firewall.

According to the article I read here, the low pressure points in the hood are actually in the front and along the ridge (as you mentioned).  And it makes sense, because near the firewall is the intake for the heater and vent, so air actually comes in there, so it is a high-pressure point...

Anyway, I agree that regardless, the top is not the best way to put an intercooler...
'94 YJ 2.5L with 4" RE lift, Superwinch EPi9.0, FoMoCo e-Fan, SD30 and SD35 w/ARB-5.13, 165A alt., 33" BFG KM2 on 15" AR wheels, Sony sound system, Pavement Ends Hardtop, Hydroboost

Air Sierra

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Re: The Official turbo thread
« Reply #108 on: July 01, 2008, 11:16:44 AM »
I have 2.4L turbo adapter for sale if you need one.....




Clem

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Re: The Official turbo thread
« Reply #109 on: July 15, 2008, 07:18:46 AM »
Let's bring this back to the top...

I am hoping to compile that shopping list for this project. This is what info I gathered from Rob and Sean's threads here.

1. Your favorite turbo: .48 A/R (I am looking for an internal gated T03. I am looking for a maximum of 8 psi of boost)
2. 19 lb/hr injectors
3. 12:1 FMU
4. Intercooler
5. Some plumbing parts for the oil feed to and from the turbo
6. Intake and exhaust plumbing
7. Possible MAP issues??? (TBD)

The one thing I didn't completely follow was weather or not an adjustable map IS required for this. I read about the map clamps and the adjustable unit that Sean used. It wasn't really clear...

Clem

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Re: The Official turbo thread
« Reply #110 on: July 15, 2008, 07:22:47 AM »
I have 2.4L turbo adapter for sale if you need one.....




I have 2.4L turbo adapter for sale if you need one.....





Does this let you use the newer style manifold on the older engine? I tried your link to the Reno 4x4 site. I didn't have time to register this morning...


st.chevrolet

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Re: The Official turbo thread
« Reply #112 on: September 20, 2008, 09:52:06 PM »
Well I had a look at both of the turbo links, the first one is the same turbo that I am running on my set up and it works very well I really like the water cooled feature. The second one looks brand new now if that is the case that may be a good choice, however I am more partial to the water cooled turbo. I think that either of the two turbos you have picked out would work for your application, both are the rite size for you engine  (from the looks of it) and both are a not too bad price. 

D42

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Re: The Official turbo thread
« Reply #113 on: September 21, 2008, 10:15:24 AM »
Clem, I thinking form the reading I have done so far, I would add the Following to the list too.

1. Boost Gage
2. Wide Band O2 sensor or a Air Fuel Meter.
3. The Split Second PSC1-002

 :rtfm:

st.chevrolet

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Re: The Official turbo thread
« Reply #114 on: September 21, 2008, 10:49:38 AM »
With the PCS1-002 you have the ability to correct the fuel mixture to run without a FMU. From my experiences of using a FMU on my build I would suggest not to use one, they do work and not really that bad however they are not perfect. I found that if you were to let off the gas and then step on it again quickly the engine will back-fire, this is because for a short time the FMU sees no boost so the fuel pressure drops off and then it must react to seeing boost again.
I'm changing my set up to a larger injector and taking out the FMU, I will then just use the PCS1-002 to program proper fuel mixture across the board. This set up will run more consistent as it will not have to react to boost, it will be set up closer to a stock turbo engine.
 

D42

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Re: The Official turbo thread
« Reply #115 on: September 21, 2008, 01:57:41 PM »
st.chevrolet, Well I just spent the last 3 hours on ebay looking at water cooled turbos TDO4H'S, And doing a lot of goggle search's. If you can please keep us posted on the programing of the PSC1-OO2. I have a question, Will the Three Speed Transmission hold to the turbo ??? I had it rebuilt about 2 year ago and had them put all HD parts in it. This is what I have done to the engine so far, I have put headers on it, 62MM TB Spacer, Had the TB Bored out to 62 MM. Still have the stock Air Cleaner one it. It has 104k miles one it. Hi flow muffler, And got rid of the cat.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T25-TD04-H-TURBO-CHARGER-S13-S14-S15-300ZX-TURBOCHARGER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ33742QQihZ006QQitemZ160284299871QQtcZphoto

http://www.spooledmotorsports.com/turbochargerspage.php?turbocharger=Used_Mitsubishi_TE04H_(13C)_Turbocharger

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/89-94-ECLIPSE-4G63-TD05H-16G-TURBOCHARGER-TD05-TURBO-1G_W0QQitemZ250296653391QQihZ015QQcategoryZ33742QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I think I Will get the Turbo first and the 19# injectors 2nd. Work my way up from there. And what is the difference Water Cooled and oil cooled ??? And witch one takes an inter-cooler. And as far as the plumbing it's or that's going to the muffler Shop, And have them use stainless steel on that.
One more thing, Thank you for Help and Pointers so far. Hell I need all the help I can Get   :beers:

st.chevrolet

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Re: The Official turbo thread
« Reply #116 on: September 21, 2008, 03:36:24 PM »
The programing of the PSC1-002 is all done by trial and error with the use of a air to fuel ratio meter or wide band O2. By monitoring the air to fuel ratio of your own set up, you can then use your PC to write a program to the PSC1-002 adding fuel where you are lean and the opposite as needed. The PSC1-002 comes with everything you need to write your own fuel maps (minus a air to fuel monitor), it comes with Split Second's own R4 software and after reviewing the instructions programing in not a problem.
The three speed transmission should have no problem holding up to the power the little 4 bangers will make, provided they are well maintained and not abused.
I think you may need to go with a bigger injector though, especially if you do not use a FMU.
All turbos can be intercooled, the intercooler goses inline between the turbo and the engine throttle body, it works like a radiator but for the hot air coming out of the turbo and into the engine. As for water cooler and oil cooled turbos, all turbos are oil cooler/lubricated the oil is there to lubricate and cool the bearings more then it is to cool the turbo. The water cooler turbos use engine coolant to cool the turbo, this greatly decreases coking inside the turbo oil passages.
To have the a muffler shop do all of your exhaust plumbing it will cost you allot of $$$$$$$, if you can try to do as much as you can before hand. The exhaust and your turbo bracket will all have to be made up ahead of time, and installed in conjunction with oil and water lines before you can drive your jeep.

I hope this helps with your questions, feel free to keep them coming.

D42

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Re: The Official turbo thread
« Reply #117 on: September 22, 2008, 08:12:52 AM »
Well got some mustang 19# injectors lined up,  I will need to uninstall the A/C and two Idlers. I will need a shorter Serpentine Belt after this. Also what are the measurement's for the turbo mount, And it's thickness ???  I will see if I can sell the A/C to off set the cost of this project.

Thank you for the update

st.chevrolet

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Re: The Official turbo thread
« Reply #118 on: September 22, 2008, 12:04:21 PM »
Well got some mustang 19# injectors lined up,  I will need to uninstall the A/C and two Idlers. I will need a shorter Serpentine Belt after this. Also what are the measurement's for the turbo mount, And it's thickness ???  I will see if I can sell the A/C to off set the cost of this project.

Thank you for the update

The #19lb injectors are used (as far as I know) on most inline six 4.0L this includes the Cherokees that are in abundance at your local Pick&Pull, and are a hell of a lot cheaper then most auto-wreckers will sell the same injectors for. (I thought you mite want to know)
On the TJ's the FMU and 19lb injectors should work very well due to them being OBDII. OBDII responds very well to mechanical fuel adjustment, however with no return line on the fuel rail the use of a older one like the YJs use will need to be added to your list of parts. With my turbo mount you should not need to remove your AC, I will try to get it drawn up on auto-sketch (no access to auto-cad). I used 5/16 plate to avoid the vibration caused by the engine, a thinner plate will work but I do not recommend it.