Topic: axle match

[damon54]

I am torn.  I picked up a d 44 from a cherokee to beef up the rear on the YJ to run 33's.  Now I am thinking I want 35's.  With the 35's I need to regear to 5.13 instead of 4.88 but you can't get 5.13 for the d 30 up front.  Anyone got a suggestion for an axle to match the 44 that will take 5.13 gears?

[oldjeep]

If you want 5.13's then a narrowed High pinion Dana 44 is a good choice.  If you are looking for additional strength over the D30, then you should plan on a full set of alloy shafts.  The stubs on a stock D44 are weaker than a (non cj)D30 stub and the inner shafts are pretty close to the same strength.

Unfortunately you can't get a 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern on a "real" front D44 due to the hub size.  There are a couple of other options, like the over priced Rubicon D30/44 hybrid axle or the craptastic Dodge Unit bearing Dana 44.

[damon54]

The high pinion d 44 is from the Wagoneer right?  If that is the case I guess I could just get both axles from a wagoneer and sell the 44 I have now.

[oldjeep]

The high pinion d 44 is from the Wagoneer right?  If that is the case I guess I could just get both axles from a wagoneer and sell the 44 I have now.

Nope.  High pinion 44's only came in Ford trucks

[Jeffy]

Ford Early Bronco D44
Late 70's F series D44 HP(needs to be narrowed on the long side)
82-87 Jeep SJ Grand Cherokee D44
Jeep Rubicon D44

Those are about your only choices.  35's can be turned by 4.88's and even 4.56's (I run these) but it would eb ebtter to regear.  Although if you have plans on doing an engine swap you might not want to regear too low.  If you're not wheeling it every weekend then I'd probably regear it to 5:38:1.  Then just drive it around till you get a new front axle.  If you want full use of both axles and don't have the money for a front right now, then go with 4.88's.  Also keep in mind that in most cases you'll have to have the rear D44 drilled for 5 on 5.5" or 6 on 5.5".  Most are already drilled for 4.5 and 5.5.  An Early Bronco has 5 on 5.5.  The F series has 5 on 5.5.  The SJ is 6 on 5.5 and the Rubicon is 5 on 4.5.

For some the Rubicon D44 isn't a bad option.  Yes, it doesn't have manual hubs but you can reuse your outer knuckles, brakes and what nots.  A bare housing can be had for around $200 then you'll need to build it up.  If you're not going to go larger then 35's then it would be OK.

BTW: I'm axing the posts in my thread since they're less on what I'm doing.

[damon54]

Looks like the best option is the Rubi 44 or just sticking with 4.88's.  How does yours run on the highway with 4.56 and 35's Jeffy?

[Jeffy]

Looks like the best option is the Rubi 44 or just sticking with 4.88's.  How does yours run on the highway with 4.56 and 35's Jeffy?

It depends.  I drive it every day and I know the roads out here well.  I know where I'll have to rev it up high so I don't lose too much speed so that helps.  Since, it's inland without too much wind (shielded by buildings and such) I can go 75mph on the downslope and 65-70 on the upslope.  On the flat with a heavy wind, I'm stuck doing 65 unless I want to really rev it and at that point I get really bad mileage.

4.88's will give you about 300-400 more RPM's then what I have which would help a lot in my situation.

[jfrabat]

Jeffy,

I read that because the 4.88's on the D30 (actually, I read about it on a D35, but I am guessing the same principal applies) actually have less contact and this can cause faster deterioration...  Would this be an issue with a 2.5L?

Felipe

[Jeffy]

Jeffy,

I read that because the 4.88's on the D30 (actually, I read about it on a D35, but I am guessing the same principal applies) actually have less contact and this can cause faster deterioration...  Would this be an issue with a 2.5L?

Felipe

About the same as if you drove naked, to save weight. 

[tttppp54]

i thought someone made 5.13's for the d30.

[Jeffy]

i thought someone made 5.13's for the d30.

Only for the standard rotation (shims) D30, which means only CJ's.