Well soon I hope to be upgrading my tires. Can't yet side between 33's or 35's. I'm looking for opinions on best bang for the buck. What I'm looking for is: strength, weight (light is better if it doesn't compromise too much strength), tread wear, grip, etc. What are your opinions for the best all around tire, because this will be a daily driver. I'm leaning towards 33's. I don't want all terrains because I will be off road hopefully as much on road. 
also I'm curious about rim sizes and what rim sizes work best with what said tire.
sorry if this question has been answered a lot, I have decided not to get super swampers because of gas mileage.
Also I plan on doing an 8.8 swap and I understand most everything about how I would need to upgrade my axles and stuff, blah blah blah money money money. ok so no axle talk on here unless it pertains to a particular tire/rim set up. Don't want jeffy getting mad at people getting off topic. 
You need to give more info. What's your current gearing? Are you going to regear? How far is your commute? What kind of trails are we talking about? gravel, fireroads, powerline trails, mud (watery vs thick), rocks, dirt, etc...
The more aggressive the tires are the faster they'll wear. The more grip the tire has the faster they will wear. The faster you driver, the more they will wear. Bias ply tires wear faster then Radials. Open < Limited Slip Differentials < Auto-Locker? See the trend?
Even if you're 50/50 onroad,it doesn't mean you shouldn't use AT's. For most people AT's would be fine for 90% of what they do. Tires like the BFG KO's are fairly aggressive AT's and work well for most people. So don't write off AT's so quickly.
That being said, I'd say the best tire for a daily driver is probably the Goodyear MT/R. I'm sure others will say BFG AT's or some other tire but here's what I think. The MT/R's are aggressive but not overly. They have good street handling and work well offroad as well. They tend to last a long time with regular tire rotations as well. I like them better in heavy rain then my old BFG AT's since the AT's plowed through water instead of shedding it. They have thick sidewalls which is a big plus as well. BFG's are notorious for their thin sidewalls. The tires may not be as sticky as a Swamper but they hold up a whole lot better with a lot of onroad driving. Their only down side is cost. Swampers are pretty cheap in comparison.
I'm kinda partial to the Pro-Comp Xtreme AT's though. The 40,000 Mile tread life warranty sounds good. I have around 30,000 on my MTR's and there's about 30-35% tread left. Although I don't really like directional tread. Interco TrXus MT's are kind of interesting too. Toyo has some nice tires as well. Oh there's also the new BFG KM2's. Kind of a combination of their KM and the KX (Krawlers). I really like the looks of these, I haven't seen them till now. No one I've talked to has ever mentioned them. If they perform 90% of the Krawlers and have the treadlife of a KM, I might buy them next.
As for wheels, it really depends on the tire size, the trails you do and not much street you drive. There's two width's, 8" and 10". With a 12.5" wide tire you can run either. Rockcrawlers like the 8's because the tires wraps around the wheel and protects the rim from damage. They are also less prone to breaking the bead. The down side is that you have to run less pressure (20's) in the tires to get a flat tread pattern. This means the tires will heat up more while onroad. Heat causes wear. 10's on the other hand have a flat tread pattern at the higher psi's. (30's) They also tend to look a bit nicer. The downside is when aired down they don't protect the rim of the wheel as well and can break the bead if you run in the 10's (psi) or lower. They are also heavier.
Then you have offset (OS)/backspacing (BS). Stock wheels are usually 5.5" BS. For a most Jeeps it's good to stay between 4.75 and 4.25. Although you can run as wide as 3.75" but that really puts the tire well past the stock flares. A 12.5" wide tire on a 8" wheel with 3.75" will stick past the stock flares around 5-6". This tends to put more stress on the wheel bearings but I've never seen it being an issue ever. The downside is that you'll be flinging mud, rocks, water, etc onto the side of the Jeep. If you have a soft top the side windows will never really be clean. Also, if you happen to have the window open. The rooster tail off the front tires will get you when you turn. This is also a legal issue in many states. Some states don't allow flare extensions. Just to give you an idea of how wide is it, when I remove my flares, 90% of my tires are past the actual body of the jeep with 3.75" BS.
On the opposite end of the spectrum, you could run more BS. This helps keep the tires under the fenders and flares. This keeps the Jeep look stock but it does come at a price as well. Bring the tires inboard and they may rub the suspension or frame when at full turn. To keep this from happening, you'll need to adjust your steering stops. This sets the turn limits. For 95% of your driving you probably won't ever notice it unless you're doing a U-turn. Some say you get more stability with the wider stance but in the real world its not really enough to make that much of a difference. At least onroad. Offroad, it does give you a bit more stability and you get greater range of articulation.
Another thing to consider, most Jeepers who run 35's and up tend not to worry about tread life so much.
