Topic: Hey Dana 35 guys

[Jeffy]

The "limp" housing causes deflection of the ring gear and in turn the carrier.  But that to is easily fixed with a truss that superior released this year at SEMA as well.

Actually, they are re-releasing the truss.  The first time they introduced it was with the Super 35 kit and no one bought it.  I doubt a few years have changed anything.

I still don't see why anyone want to get a aftermarket D35 C-clip eliminator though.   The shafts are the same Alloy shafts they already sell.  If you break the non-c-clip shaft, you're SOL since you need a specialized non-c-clip shaft.  If you have the C-clips, at least you can swap in your spare stock shaft.  If you don't want C-clips, convert to a early model (1984-1990) D35C shafts without C-clips and use alloy shafts.  At least they will be standardized parts.  Probably cheaper too.

[chrisfranklin]

Those aren't chomoly.  They are 1541H material.  Chromoly shafts are normally 4340 or 300m. 

Thanks for pointing that out.  I assumed in reverse based on their advertisement of 25-30% stronger than stock, etc.

[Jesse-James]

You can't compare welding spring perches on to welding a 5 link suspension bracket kit. 

My point is either you can weld or you can't. Even if you can't having someone else weld up a 200.00 axle is probably less than the 1k or so they'll charge for this crap. If not, find a new shop.

But, hell...it's only money right. As long as it's not mine.

[garydubf]

I agree that a turd is still a turd!  I started down this road and talked with a lot of people in the club about axles!  The general consenses is that the more you get into off roading the bigger tire, higher horse power, lower gears, ect.. you'll want to run!  Money being hard to come by, I don't particullarly want to spend it unwisely on parts that I'll end up replacing down the road.  That's why I haven't bought a locker for my stock running gear.  I want to keep my week link external!  Trail fixes are inevitable, I'd rather replace a u-joint or limp home with only one drive line in than to spend 3-4 hrs pulling broken axles and hoping in the process that my carrier didn't come apart.  I think instead of spending money on "snake oil" for the dana 35 or 30 for that matter, save some $ build your axle of choice over time and then once it's done bolt her up.  BTW  I was quoted $500 to set up an 8.8 with TJ mounts (parts and labor)$300 for the initial buy, so if you can find one with your ratio and a limited slip you  can be into an awesome axle for +/- $1000.

[Mozman68]

I know I went way overboard with my front and rear HP D60's, but it will be so nice going out on the trail with no worries other than my lack of driving ability....

[Jeffy]

I know I went way overboard with my front and rear HP D60's, but it will be so nice going out on the trail with no worries other than my lack of driving ability....

Hey a HP 60 isn't as strong as a standard 60 and with the V8 going in you could still be breaking axles.  Maybe you should have gone with the 14Bolt?    

[Shawn_c]

The "limp" housing causes deflection of the ring gear and in turn the carrier.  But that to is easily fixed with a truss that superior released this year at SEMA as well.

Actually, they are re-releasing the truss.  The first time they introduced it was with the Super 35 kit and no one bought it.  I doubt a few years have changed anything.

your splitting hairs now, it isn't the same truss they had before.  Where I wheel trussing is mandatory.  I jump my jeep on a regular basis, so the trussing is what saves my $$$ on housings.

I still don't see why anyone want to get a aftermarket D35 C-clip eliminator though.   The shafts are the same Alloy shafts they already sell.  If you break the non-c-clip shaft, you're SOL since you need a specialized non-c-clip shaft.  If you have the C-clips, at least you can swap in your spare stock shaft.  If you don't want C-clips, convert to a early model (1984-1990) D35C shafts without C-clips and use alloy shafts.  At least they will be standardized parts.  Probably cheaper too.

No one sells this shaft right now Jeffy.  There is one 4340 chromoly shaft availible that is still 27 spline, and it isn't near as beefy as superior new shaft. This is not a 30 spline super 35 kit. The advantage of not having c-clips is being able to drive home, if you don't have a spare shaft.  Gobs and Gobs of people don't even know how to change a shaft.  That and if you grenade your carrier, quite common problem, your axles shafts will remain in place. 

[Shawn_c]

I agree that a turd is still a turd!  I started down this road and talked with a lot of people in the club about axles!  The general consenses is that the more you get into off roading the bigger tire, higher horse power, lower gears, ect.. you'll want to run!  Money being hard to come by, I don't particullarly want to spend it unwisely on parts that I'll end up replacing down the road.  That's why I haven't bought a locker for my stock running gear.  I want to keep my week link external!  Trail fixes are inevitable, I'd rather replace a u-joint or limp home with only one drive line in than to spend 3-4 hrs pulling broken axles and hoping in the process that my carrier didn't come apart.  I think instead of spending money on "snake oil" for the dana 35 or 30 for that matter, save some $ build your axle of choice over time and then once it's done bolt her up.  BTW  I was quoted $500 to set up an 8.8 with TJ mounts (parts and labor)$300 for the initial buy, so if you can find one with your ratio and a limited slip you  can be into an awesome axle for +/- $1000.

Your weak link now is your Dana 35's spider gears and carrier.  If you grenade the carrier you'll be taking your rig home on a trailer, because your c-clips will fall off and spit both axle shafts out.  The Dana 30 is a great axle and will serve you well with up to 35" tires.  Again if your axle is stock and your goal is to have over a 33-35" tire this isn't for you.  On the other hand if you already have gears and or a locker and want some extra beef then it is something to consider.  Personally I think this mod would be awesome combined with a detroit true track.  I can do this in my driveway in a couple of hours and use all my stock componets.  No down time, no working out the bugs on a new axle, and I can reuse things I have already bought for my rear end. 

Since everyone has turned this into an 8.8 thread, I have thought about doing an 8.8.  But to do it right there is more to it. 

8.8 axle $300 locally
fresh brake pads, calipers, rotors turned $150?
TJ bracket kit  $250
wheel spacers $150
labor for welding on $250-$300

That ends up being around $1100 for an unlocked ungeared axle.  Then you still have to deal with all the little stuff like drive shaft adapter flange+ a new U-joint.  You'll need a spare flange because those tend to break.  New brake hard lines, brake hoses, proportioning valve, e-brake cables, 4.88 gear set(in my case).  Now if you have a lift on your rig already and don't have an SYE and CV driveshaft you'll need to buy that because the off set center section combined with poor drive shaft angles will almost certainly give you vibes.  Oh and us TJ guys would have to buy adjustable control arms to set the pinion angle either way.  Suddenly what I first thought sounded like a cheap axle swap turns into a much more expensive project.  Then you still end up with an unlocked axle

[Jeffy]

No one sells this shaft right now Jeffy.  There is one 4340 chromoly shaft availible that is still 27 spline, and it isn't near as beefy as superior new shaft. This is not a 30 spline super 35 kit. The advantage of not having c-clips is being able to drive home, if you don't have a spare shaft.  Gobs and Gobs of people don't even know how to change a shaft.  That and if you grenade your carrier, quite common problem, your axles shafts will remain in place. 

I guess it would be a good choice if you were against getting a new axle and wanted something between the strength of Alloy stock shafts and the Super 35 and didn't want tires larger then 33's.  Then I guess you can buy the truss as well. (The first truss was over $300.) You'd no doubt have a locker in there someplace as well.  Sure seems like a lot of money invested in the D35 when you could have gone with something else.  But then if you had no fabrication skills or knew anyone with them and didn't want to pay anyone then that would be an option.  Another option would be to look for someone selling a complete axle already set up.

I still feel the majority, as what was seen here, will either stick with the stock setup and carry spares (saving up) or upgrade.  It's good to have options but I just don't feel this one will be that popular.  Who, knows though I could be wrong and it turns into the newest fad.

[Shawn_c]

IMO this is for people like myself who have wheeled a dana 35 for a long time without ever breaking one.  Heck I didnt even know the dana 35 was a bad axle until like 2002 when I started poking around on the internet.  Most of the guys I know locally never had alot of problems with the 35 until they swapped in V-8's.  I think alot of people would get by just fine with a Dana 35, but it's internet reputation gets the better of it.  I do mud and sand, no rocks, and it seems to hold up well.  Over the last 10 years I have had and built 3 wranglers and 2 XJ's with the dana 35.  I have always been the type of person who keeps spares parts around, but luckily I haven't needed them yet.  Knock on wood

I don't predict this new axle conversion will be hugely popular, and it is def. not for everyone.  But it is an option none the less.

[Mozman68]

I know I went way overboard with my front and rear HP D60's, but it will be so nice going out on the trail with no worries other than my lack of driving ability....

Hey a HP 60 isn't as strong as a standard 60 and with the V8 going in you could still be breaking axles.  Maybe you should have gone with the 14Bolt?    

*sigh*...your jealousy and envy are so transparent....

[Jeffy]

*sigh*...your jealousy and envy are so transparent....

I guess I'll just have to polish my  

[Mozman68]