Topic: TJ Dana 44 Front Axle

[jcsanders79]

Rubicon D44's don't

In order to build what is in that link, you would need to get a Dana 44 front end - preferably a high pinion from a Ford.  Then you need to remove the C's from the ends of the tubes.  Then you would need to remove the C's from your Dana 30 and have them milled out so that they would actuallyu fit on a D44 tube.  Then you would need to cut the D44 to the correct width, install the C's and weld them on.  Once you do all that you need to weld on TJ coil and control arm brackets.

You would then get some D44 inner axles cut down to the size you need and attach them to the stubs from your D30 (assuming you have the larger ujoints)  The reattach all the outter D30 stuff and you're done.

If you replace the carrier on the Rubi I think it will take 5.38?  It doesn't really matter because I can't find a Rubi axle under $2000.
Actually it doesn't sound to hard when you put it like that.  There is a local shop that has a jig and can do all that cutting and welding pretty cheap.  The TJ has the 297 size joints, I am pretty sure that is the large size.  High pinion Ford hmmm, know if there is a great year?

easy

[oldjeep]

78-79 F250 or supercab F150 are the easiest since they will have leaf spring perches on them instead of the clamshells for the radius arm mounts.  If you do get an axle that had radius arms you need to make sure that it does not have the cast in mounts.

[oldjeep]

78-79 F250 or supercab F150 are the easiest since they will have leaf spring perches on them instead of the clamshells for the radius arm mounts.  If you do get an axle that had radius arms you need to make sure that it does not have the cast in mounts.

Honestly I'd be suprised if you could buy the parts and then pay a shop to do all the cutting and welding work, and setting gears for less than buying the one in your link.

[jcsanders79]

Honestly I'd be suprised if you could buy the parts and then pay a shop to do all the cutting and welding work, and setting gears for less than buying the one in your link.

I have found a 79 ford D44 and I found some good info on them but got to make sure it is the one with leaf springs like you said.  I should be able to buy this axle and have it cut/welded up for $700, OX locker $840(this incldes the cable) and new gears and bearings $250, thats $1790.  The cheapest I can find a standard D44 with OX locker ready to bolt in is $2600.  So for $900 less I get what I want but its a highpinion as a bonous!

[oldjeep]

I have found a 79 ford D44 and I found some good info on them but got to make sure it is the one with leaf springs like you said.  I should be able to buy this axle and have it cut/welded up for $700, OX locker $840(this incldes the cable) and new gears and bearings $250, thats $1790.  The cheapest I can find a standard D44 with OX locker ready to bolt in is $2600.  So for $900 less I get what I want but its a highpinion as a bonous!

Are you installing the gears?  And you forgot to add in the cost of having the inner axles cut and resplined, or custom alloy inners.

[oldjeep]

Are you installing the gears?  And you forgot to add in the cost of having the inner axles cut and resplined, or custom alloy inners.

Also does your $700 include the TJ coil/ control arm brackets?  I'm not sure if you've ever tried to remove and reuse a stock set, but I've removed 3 sets of them and it's near impossible to get them off intact enough to reuse.

[jcsanders79]

Also does your $700 include the TJ coil/ control arm brackets?  I'm not sure if you've ever tried to remove and reuse a stock set, but I've removed 3 sets of them and it's near impossible to get them off intact enough to reuse.

.The guys at the driveline shop said they can remove and reinstall no problem?  Something about having a jig probably helps.  The $700  does include the cost  of cuting and resplining the inner axles, same shop(they estimated $500 worth of cuting and welding and the axle is $200).  I'll most likely do the gears myself but if I get lazy thats an additional $125.  I am getting ahead of the project because I don't know if the axle has leaf spring perches or coils yet, they are closed so I wont find out till tomorrow.

[oldjeep]

.The guys at the driveline shop said they can remove and reinstall no problem?  Something about having a jig probably helps.  The $700  does include the cost  of cuting and resplining the inner axles, same shop(they estimated $500 worth of cuting and welding and the axle is $200).  I'll most likely do the gears myself but if I get lazy thats an additional $125.  I am getting ahead of the project because I don't know if the axle has leaf spring perches or coils yet, they are closed so I wont find out till tomorrow.

Well, good luck to you.  I would make sure you get all that in writing before they get started.

[Jeffy]

Rubicon D44's don't

The only difference with the Rubicon 44 is the carrier.  They only use one carrier and no gear splits so you need to use thick gears when going lower.  Currently, you can only get 5.13's without getting a shim.

[oldjeep]

The only difference with the Rubicon 44 is the carrier.  They only use one carrier and no gear splits so you need to use thick gears when going lower.  Currently, you can only get 5.13's without getting a shim.

Right but if you take out the magic rubicon air locker it's a pretty expensive way to get a 44 front.

[garydubf]

So the early Waganers have the same width?  I'm glad you said something about the pumpkin being on different sides I totally forgot about that

Wagoneer is approx. 2" wider. But you can forget about custom axles with that set up and use stock waggy axles.


Setting the c's are pretty easy as long as you take your time.  Problem with using the dana 30's is the extra machine work.  I went with the 5 x 5.5 front and rear.  Manual locking hubs and bigger disks for stopping bigger tires!

Good luck with your build

[oldjeep]

Wagoneer is approx. 2" wider. But you can forget about custom axles with that set up and use stock waggy axles.


Setting the c's are pretty easy as long as you take your time.  Problem with using the dana 30's is the extra machine work.  I went with the 5 x 5.5 front and rear.  Manual locking hubs and bigger disks for stopping bigger tires!

Good luck with your build

If you go with the wagoneer, just remember that not all wagoneers are drivers side diff.  79 and older are passenger side diff.  And some of the 80's axles have a vacuum disconnect.

[jcsanders79]

All good info, thanks guys helped out a lot in selecting a starting axle, looks like Ford 1/2 tons are the way to go because they had HP and weld on C's.  One of the benefits for me of building it verses buying one ready to bolt in is I can do it a couple houndre$ d at a time.  I know it doesn't make a lot of sense to some of you that I want to reuse my stock knuckes and stuff but thats what I'll get if I buy one of the ready to bolt in axles (I know you can get them with beffy kuckles included but thats more money than I can or want to spend).  So if I build it at least I will be getting a HP D44 and spend a few less $'s.

[Mozman68]

Rubicon D44's don't

In order to build what is in that link, you would need to get a Dana 44 front end - preferably a high pinion from a Ford.  Then you need to remove the C's from the ends of the tubes.  Then you would need to remove the C's from your Dana 30 and have them milled out so that they would actuallyu fit on a D44 tube.  Then you would need to cut the D44 to the correct width, install the C's and weld them on.  Once you do all that you need to weld on TJ coil and control arm brackets.

You would then get some D44 inner axles cut down to the size you need and attach them to the stubs from your D30 (assuming you have the larger ujoints)  The reattach all the outter D30 stuff and you're done.

easy

That sounds so easy I think I'm going to sell my already completed D60's and go this route instead.....

[jcsanders79]

That sounds so easy I think I'm going to sell my already completed D60's and go this route instead.....

Hah hah.  You've been talking about these axles for at least a year are you ever going to install them?     If I wanted to put 60's in I would save up and do it.  Don't need them though it would be a waste of money, I actually plan on staying with my 4 cylinder and not going larger than 35's.  If I ever want something bigger I'll build a buggy.