Thanks for all of your help. I found a post in the FAQs about injector sizes and ones that might fit. It looks like a T-Bird Super Coupe red top injector does 30#. are these easy to find and will they actually be what I would want? Earlier you said there were a few things about timing I needed to know...want to share?
ok, timing: the advance of the spark is meant to account for the time it takes for the air/fuel mixture to ignite entirely and the goal is to have it fully burning when the piston is at TDC on that cylinder. Now, the colder the mix the slower it ignites, so you need more advance. Same for the rpm, the higher the more spark advance you need and that is because it takes less time for the piston to reach the TDC and therefore you need to ignite it earlier. On most of the new vehicles with an MPFI (and probably all at this point) there is an air intake temp sensor - that sensor tells the ECU what is the density of the air (how many molecules of O2 per cubic feet of air let's say) so it can adjust the mix but also how hot is the air and resulting air/fuel mix to adjust the timing - the hotter it is the faster it ignites so you need less timing. But keep in mind that this does not mean that is better to have it hot - once the temp rises you basically get less oxygen per cycle, so that accounts for less power and also (and this is more important) the risk of having the mix auto-ignite or instant detonation which translates into ping/knock that you can sometimes hear. The lower the octane the more likely to have knock, so for lower octane you have to retard the spark more.
So,
1. with a turbo/supercharger you will need less ignition advance because the mix is hotter and the pressure in the chamber is higher (also helps the mix to burn faster) - this will not affect your power when you retard the timing.
2. you run the risk of detonation (which is random most of the time) and then you will need to retard the spark even more, this is mostly due to too high temp in the chamber or too much boost for the engine (which in turn is related to the temp and too muck pressure in the camber) - this will require even more timing retard but unlike #1 this will hurt the power output.
- to address number 1 and 2 there are a few options
a. you will need a timing retard module if your ECU will not adjust it properly or too much due to the increase in air temp - you will have to test this once you have your system completed, but a fair guess would be that you most likely need one. ***Now, if you do end up with a timing retard module of some sort i suggest that the Air Intake Temp sensor to be moved ahead of your turbo - some companies do that to keep the ecu and boost timing control from fighting each-other (both trying to achieve the same thing, you'll end up with too much spark retard/too little ignition advance).
b. you most likely need an intercooler to address #2 (in the winter you could get away w/o one, but if it's summer you will see what i mean).
c. Use cooler heat range spark plugs - the cooler the heat range the faster the sparkplug removes the heat from the chamber
d. lot of people decide to increase the fuel volume and therefore get the air/fuel ratio to low values to lower the temp of the mix - but that is just going to hurt your mileage, there are no benefits other than addressing the knock issue
e. you can also add octane booster, that would help but it get's pricey since you have to add it every time you put fuel in the car
f. run water injection that kicks in at certain air intake temp and boost - water is free but you need a tank for it and keep adding so you don't run out (and the idea is the same with increasing fuel drastically but in this case it's cheaper).
the advantage with turbos is that it only kicks in at higher rpm, so less range to actually worry about ignition advance, the disadvantage is that the air is hotter.
hope i covered most of the issues, could've missed something but feel free to ask if you have any questions.
