Topic: Worth regearing a Superior Gear Super 35?

[czjeeper]

I want to go to 4.88's.
My current setup is factory D30 and D35 rebuilt with Superior's Super 35 kit.
I doubt that I can actually destroy the 35 w/my 2.5l, but people treat it like a devil child.
I am not going bigger than 33's, and will probably keep 31's on it most of the time.
90% is daily driving.
What say you all?

[sharpxmen]

I want to go to 4.88's.
My current setup is factory D30 and D35 rebuilt with Superior's Super 35 kit.
I doubt that I can actually destroy the 35 w/my 2.5l, but people treat it like a devil child.
I am not going bigger than 33's, and will probably keep 31's on it most of the time.
90% is daily driving.
What say you all?

that's what i am actually doing. The axles are in fact same diameter as the D44 and they're cromoly, so stronger than the stock on the 44, however the housing is weaker (i plan to make a truss) and what is left is the R&P for which unfortunately there is no solution, but i guess i'll have to find out. Since you already have the super 35 axles i think it's worth doing it this way, if I would start all over again would probably consider a D44 housing and get all the insides upgraded (and not be limited to the max of 4.88 like with the D35) - but even if i go with 35s i would still be better than what it was with the 4.10 and 33s (but again, weak point would be the R&P)

[aw12345]

A friend of mine runs a super35 and 4.56 gears in his 6cyl YJ so far 2 broken axle shafts but the ring and pinion are still ok. so it seems that the ring and pinion going out first is somewhat doubtful. What will go out unless you put a locker of some sort in is the spider gears, adding a truss will be a good idea will keep the tubes from bending and the axle housing from deflecting which will help the gears

[sharpxmen]

i broke the stock R&P and the 27 spline shafts are fine, go figure.

[aw12345]

You just never know what will implode do you

[jagular7]

Choosing a route is not an easy thing to do when upgrading. Time, money, plans add all into the mix. Based on what you describe as a timeline and plans, I would say do it. In the short term and to the long run, spending the money today will be the least expense. Swapping diffs, doing more gear work, lockers for the limited tire size will probably be more expensive but that really depends on how much you spend on it as well.
Only other place where you can upgrade with minimal amount $$ are in the front axles. Look at upgrading to TJ shafts as they have the 297/760 larger ujoints compared to your 260 ujoints in the YJ shafts. You could also go to alloys as well with them, but why? unless you break them more often...

[jcsanders79]

I went with a D-44.

[jfrabat]

I upgraded my '94 2.5L with alloy shafts (G2 IIRC), 4.88 gears, 31 pline and ARB's front and rear (D30 and D35).  I run 33's BFG MT KM2's.  Have not wheeled it yet (just shipped it to Panama this week for wheeling), but I think it should hold OK.  I can keep you posted of how it does, though...

[jason 00 tj]

My 2cents is look for a rubicon dana 44.
Why, locker is dependable and has a very smooth operation, plus it's a limited slip
when not locked. You can get up to 5.38's with the factory locker carrier and factory disk breaks.
It's also a direct bolt in swap the only thing i had to changed was the ujoint , you will need an
adapter joint, not a big deal to get at your local driveline shop. 
I feel in the long run this is the simplest most dependable swap in stock form.

[jcsanders79]

I'm not so sure that you can put 5.38's on a Rubicon locker?  They require the thicker ring gears and I believe that limits them to 5.13.  If you change the locker then you can go 5.38's.

[jdarg]

I'm not so sure that you can put 5.38's on a Rubicon locker?  They require the thicker ring gears and I believe that limits them to 5.13.  If you change the locker then you can go 5.38's.

This is correct. The strength of the stock Rubicon rear locker is also pretty questionable at or above 35" tires. The front is actually stronger and some guys who blow up the rears swap in a front to replace it, sacrificing the torsen LS which is actually the weak link in the rear - locked or unlocked.