I swapped in the '95 booster and master.
It actually made a really big difference.
Since it is all stock, it was pretty easy w/out any fabbing.
The only thing I needed was adapters to go from my brake lines to the new master.
My '92 MC has a front fitting that is 5/16, the rear is 1/4 and uses inverted flare fittings.
The '95 uses a M12 on the front, and a M10 on the rear with bubble flare fittings.
So, not only do you have to change the fitting size, you have to change the fitting type.
It would be easiest if a one piece adapter existed, but I can't seem to find one.
SO, on the '95 master, I am using 3 fittings on one and 2 on the other. It works, but is pretty ugly.
Here is a quick'n'dirty install:
This project goes better if you bench bleed the MC before installation.
The booster studs are different on the '95 than on my '92. Make sure you get the correct nuts before starting! Oddly enough, the '92 spacer/booster nuts worked on the '95 booster/MC studs. I only needed new booster/spacer nuts.
Remember to chock your wheels!
Okay, with the adapters, MC, and booster in hand I started the project.
Start inside the cab, looking up at the pedal/pushrod union.
The pedal on my '92 had an odd retaining clip for the push rod.
Pop this loose and wiggle the rod off the pedal.
Unbolt the MC from the booster and gently move it aside without damaging the brake lines.
On my '92, I did not have to unbolt the spacer from inside the cab. I just unbolted the booster from the spacer.
I needed to remove the airbox, and unplug the vacuum line from the booster.
The old booster pulled out pretty easily.
The new '95 booster came with a boot installed on the push rod, so I discarded the old '92 protective cover.
Before sliding the booster flush to the spacer, go into the cab and line up the push rod with the pedal to prevent any binding.
The new booster slid onto the spacer with a little persuading. The studs are larger, but go in without any hassle. I was prepared to drill out the spacer holes, but did not need to.
After checking alignment with the pedal, push the booster the rest of the way in. Go into the cab and slide the push rod onto the pedal, reinstall the retaining clip.
Tighten the nuts on the booster to spacer.
I then installed the adapters on my bench bled '95 MC.
Unbolt the brake lines from the old MC.
Carefully bend the lines over from the passenger side to the new drivers side location for the new MC.
Loosely thread the lines into the adapter on the new MC.
Install a new MC to booster seal. My booster came with a new seal.
Carefully install the new MC onto the booster, taking care that the pushrod slides into the MC.
The studs are a different size than the '92 so install and tighten the new nuts.
You should now be able to do any final tweaking of the brake lines.
Tighten the brake lines and top off the MC with DOT 3 fluid.
Reinstall the vacuum line to the new booster, and the airbox.
Go back into the cab and contort yourself to get a good view of the pedal, pushrod, and sensor switch.
On the '92 pull/push the threaded switch toward the pedal until there is contact with the pedal and switch "button".
My brake lights stayed on after this swap and I needed to adjust the switch.
After testing the brakes at a VERY slow speed and verifying that there were no leaks I took it for a spin.
Everything seems fine.
I am going to let the brakes gravity bleed over night.
If there is any air in the line (squishy pedal) I will bleed them.
I will comment on the effectiveness of this swap after driving it for a few days.
So, there is a breakdown of the install.
I am sorry I didn't have any pics. I had to do this at 10 at night to keep my apartment manager from griping at me.
This little project took me about 45 minutes.
Tools I recommend are a good set of flare wrenches and racheting end wrenches (the space between the booster spacer and firewall pretty tight).
