Topic: Changing rear tcase seal..... bushing?

[Complete Loser]

Oh. And where to I find the bushing tool to install a new bushin?

[sharpxmen]

Ok. Now back to this item.
Its bothered me that i have to drive the drive shaft in and out with a rubber mallet.
After a drive, i touched the tail shaft and its pretty warm. Hotter than it needs to be im sure. Hotter than the rest of the tcase .

So i hammered the driveshaft back out. Measured the OD of the slip yoke. Its a consistant 1.52".

The tailshaft housing was the one from bounty hunter. I left the bushing in it, as it looked very good.

So, now i have the shaft out, and took it over to the bench. I have a bushing by itself, and a 207 tail shaft housing with a good bushing in it also.
I can easily slide the slip yoke inside both of these parts.

So that leads me to believe the problem is the bushing in the housing currently on the jeep.

Anyone seen this weird problem before? Is it a thicker bushing in the t/s housing i got from bounty to accommodate a different OD slip yoke (smaller) driveshaft?

if you take the tailhousing out does the d/s slide in on the splines easily?

[Complete Loser]

Thats what im fixin to check. Hadnt got round to it yet. I do know it slips on nicely until it gets to the bushing. But could be coincidence. 

[Bounty Hunter]

Could it be that you're using a slipyoke designed for a 207 or other transfer case?  Do you have any other slipyokes to test fit into the tailshaft housing?

[Complete Loser]

Ok. I think i see the problem. Bare with me. Its weird.

I took the housing off. And the shaft slide over the splines just fine. Then i slide the housing over the shaft while i had it off also. It slid over fine aswell. But once the output housing is installed, the driveshaft doesnt like to slide in.

In short. The output shaft is slightly offset more towards the top of the output housings hole. So when the driveshaft goes in, it actually hits the bushing at the 12oclock position, and there is a gap at the 6oclock position.

This pic shows i bolted the housing back on, and just butted up the slip yoke to the bushing. You can see no gap at the top. And a gap at the bottom.


So to determine if it was an alignment issue with the t/s housing mating surface, i bolted only the top bolt down. And still, no fit. I bolted each bolt on by itself also. And still the same problem. So the machined mating surfaces are atleast correct with each other.

So i just held the housing on by hand, and slide the slip yoke in and let the housing go where its comfortable. The housing tilted up just slightly to allow the shaft to slide in. In this pic you can see. At the 12oclock position of the parts mating surfaces, theres no gap. At the 6oclock position, there is a slight gap.

I was tired and came in for the night. It didnt occur to me till just now to check for a bent output shaft (by rotating it 180). I guess i will do that in the morn.
yay. 

[sharpxmen]

I was tired and came in for the night. It didnt occur to me till just now to check for a bent output shaft (by rotating it 180). I guess i will do that in the morn.
yay. 

yep, my thought too - good thing i read the whole post, i was about to say that.

just thinking if here if it might be a seating issue on the other half of the housing (the one with the bearing) - might be worth a check.

[Complete Loser]

Bent output shaft. 

[Bounty Hunter]

Pretty common, especially when there's minimal spline engagement.

You're in luck, I have shafts too.  It's a mainshaft and goes all the way through the TC, pretty easy to install.

[Jeffy]

Pretty common, especially when there's minimal spline engagement.

You're in luck, I have shafts too.  It's a mainshaft and goes all the way through the TC, pretty easy to install.

Yet again Bounty comes through with spare parts.

[Complete Loser]

Pretty common, especially when there's minimal spline engagement.

You're in luck, I have shafts too.  It's a mainshaft and goes all the way through the TC, pretty easy to install.

lol.
You know the drill. :)
Invoice me.

[Bounty Hunter]

It's on the way

Have you been able to determine if the plastic pad on the shift fork is okay?  Once you're into the case, shoot me an email if you need any help along the way.  Emails dump straight to my phone so I get them pretty quick.

[Complete Loser]

Ive never done it before. So I will keep you abreast. 

The only thing im really not sure about is, do i need to remove the tcase from the jeep to change the shaft? Or can it be done in place?
I been watching vids and looking at manuals on it. So I think I might be ok.

Thanks again. 

[Bounty Hunter]

You can leave it in the jeep, doesn't make it that much more difficult.  Just make sure you have a set of split-ring or lock-ring pliers, different from o-ring pliers.  Get mine at Sears Item#  00947386000 |  Model#  47386

[Complete Loser]

Yup. Got my split ring/lock ring pliers.

[Bounty Hunter]

The shaft is on the way, post office said Monday but they usually run a little quicker than estimated.