Topic: rusted out frame questions

[blacknblue]

     After a brutal Chicago winter I now realize that my frame has significant corrosion.  So bad that 2 of the mounting bolts for my transfer case skid on the passenger side are rusted off and completely gone.  As for the skid itself, the dimple mount has rusted off at the last bolt on the passenger side.  The skid is hanging off on the passenger side.  I am now planning on upgrading the skid to Skyjacker's High Clearance Skid.  This is the only kit I have found that comes with new bolts and has Zinc coating for corrosion resistance, plus an extra 2" clearance won't hurt.
     I have tried to remove the other mounting bolts and they are rusted so bad that the thread is gone and they are just spinning in the frame.  I may have to saws-all the bolts off.  I looked at the mounting holes in the frame were the other bolts fell out and there is no thread at all.  I am considering my options here do I tap the already corroding frame or install something like a Heli-coil?  Anyone have experience with this kind of problem?
     I now realize that I am going to have to start the POR-15 rust treatment I bought a while ago.  My frame is rusting from the inside, really bad at the frame holes.  I plan on blowing out the loose rust with compressed air and spraying in some rust converter paint for the hell of it and possibly filling in the holes in the frame with either POR-Patch or POR Epoxy Putty and then doing the POR-15 treatment for my frame covering over the openings.  I see no need for the frame holes, all they do is collect water and rust the inside of the frame.  If I ever needed to mount something I can always drill them out. 
      If anyone has experience with treating a rusted frame I would greatly appreciate any kind advice.
 

[aw12345]

The frame has nutserts in it, for the transfercase skidplate. It's kinda like a riveted on nut. You can drill a hole all the way through the frame make spacers for the height of the frame out of some tubing and use long bolts that go all the way through the frame as an easy fix

[Jeffy]

An easier way is is drill out the welds for the nutcerts and remove them.  Then weld nuts to a strip of steel.  Then weld the whole thing to the bottom of the frame.  You may have to drill out the old holes so it fits flush against the frame. (nuts inside the frame not hanging down)

[jagular7]

I have similar problem but where the nutsert broke from its weld.

The nutsert is actually a threaded tube with a flange on the bottom.

[st.chevrolet]

Had the same problem with my skid plate except the PO had welded the skid to the frame on the drivers side.
I ground the welds out, then drilled out the stripped holes just big enough to insert the proper size nuts
through the hole. I used an 8" bolt (to give myself room to work) to hold non plated nuts centered in the hole's
and tacked them into place. Once they were tacked in place I welded them in completely let them cool and ran a tap through them. I repaired the bolt holes in the skid by welding in large thick flat washer's.
If you decide to go this route make sure you get a proficient welder to do the welding on the frame.

[blacknblue]

     I just ordered the Skyjacker High Clearance Skid Plate part #SJ-SP28A.  The A I assume is for the included tranfer case shifter relocation bracket.  I recently had to repair the shifter linkage,  I have always had occasional problems shifting into 4wd, probably from the p.o.'s 3" body lift.  I am excited to experience smoother shifts with the new relocation bracket.  Also gonna have to get a transfer case lowering kit for the time being for the driveline vibration caused by raising the skid.  Eventually I plan on doing a lift and will be using a slip yoke eliminator kit and a C.V. driveshaft...but that is down the road a bit.
     My plan is I to have my neighboor who is a machinist fabricate some stainless steel plates with new nuts welded on.  Then I will drill out the nutserts and weld the plates to the frame.  Then I will use POR-15 over the new plates and the frame before installation.   If my new camera gets here by then I will do a write up.  And yeah I will be using a profiecient welder for this.  Thank you all for your suggestions. 

[oldjeep]

Holesaw to drill the insert out and then weld a flange nut into the bottom of the frame.

[sharpxmen]

i just buy grade 8 bolts and drill a large hole to fit the nut with a lock washer through the frame. and hold it with a wrench. 2001 and up ford explorers always have the bolts snap off at the head for the crossmember and it is a brutal repair. however rust from the inside out really sounds like a sucky situation. i don't idea on how to completely remove the cancer on the inside. changing the frames on jeeps arent too bad though you do need alot of room and space.

yeah but the frame you're getting might be in the same shape (or will be) - were you thinking a new frame? how much do those go for?

[sharpxmen]

talkin bouts a new frame. they are around 2800 galvanized i believe. check out 4WD.com and get free catalogs. i believe they are only available for yj cj-5 and 7

i know you can find them at the major retailers, i was wondering if there is a source for cheap ones - mine is fine so i don't need one right now, i wish it was galvanized though.

[drunkencityworker]

I am in chicago as well...the holes in the frame are there for a reason. To let condensation evaporate other wise they would rust out even quicker. I cut a square hole in the side of the frame. sawzalled bolt and sleeve crap out. then I dropped a grade 8 bolts in it so the threads were on the outside. I then had the square hole welded shut with a plate. It has worked well for my lil yj. I understand the need for the high clearance belly on tjs. Its like a shovel.

Every spring and fall I try and scrape any loose stuff off the frame and brush on rustoleum black. It has worked fairly well to slow it down. Tho I didnt get a chance last fall and I could tell the difference when scraping andd painting this last week.

I have had hit and miss effects with por15...some places I used it it worked great. others it held together because so thick but under it rust grew. I pretty much stick to rustoleum cause when it pops up I can hit it again before structural damage.

[Jeffy]

I like Hammerite or if I can't find that, Rustolium Professional in the tall silver can.

[stan98tj]

im starting to get some rust around the edges of the frame holes. Mine is a 98 and it barely has any rust on it. Ill be going over to my buddy's place tomorrow to help him de-rust his TJ. He has an 04 and has significant amount of surface rust-esp on the rear bumper. He bought a rust kit from quadratec. ill post about it once we're done. if it works well ill prob hit mine with some rust inhibitor as well.

[drunkencityworker]

hammerite...I have had it pop off metal quicker then rustoleum but that could be my lack of prep skills..I does go on thick simular to por 15. Made by same compan that makes kills. another thing I noticed with the hammerite is it takes a looonnng time to dry. like por 15 didnt stick as well to new furnishes as well as imperfect furnishes. Hammerite is 50 a gallon in chicago and rustoleum is half that. I just ran out of rustoleum and have a bit of frame togo. I will finish with hammerite and we will see next spring if theres a difference.

[blacknblue]

I like the idea of being able to spot repair the frame if any rust comes back with a spray on product versus the POR-15.  It seems like it would be a big P.I.T.A. to patch POR-15 spots with rust underneath it.

[neale_rs]

POR-15 is mentioned a lot but seems to yield inconsistent results, it's affected by UV, etc.  I've had better luck with Rustoleum rust converter or just about any brand I can find, brushed on.  I go around the Jeep in hot weather and scrape the rust spots a bit and then brush this stuff on.  It works really well.  Some spots have been in the sun for about two years unpainted and no rust has returned. 

I have heard that Naval Jelly might be even better but I haven't tried it.