Author Topic: Things to check  (Read 1294 times)

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Offline jfrabat

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Things to check
« on: March 29, 2010, 09:57:53 AM »
OK, so after a 16 hour drive from Panama to Costa Rica, and some wheeling (which included some water fording), it's time for maintenance, and I need some advice.  First off, I am changing diff oils (this will also take care of that pesty rear diff leak that I currently have; it seems I did not put the RTV on properly, but at least it was only a slow drip), TC (was also leaking, this time through the speedo gear casing, so there is a good chance water got in there; better safe than sorry!), motor oil and filter (my Oil Pressure Sending Unit is toast, so I rather change the oil and make sure the oil is flowing properly).  I am also greasing all the Zirk fittings under the Jeep for good measure.  I am not replacing the tranny oil because all they have here are the standard oils; any recommendation on what to use if I cannot find MT90?

Also, I am hearing a soft whining coming from the engine (I hear it mostly when downshifting, and more when I am turning).  Any ideas on what to check for here and how to actually check it?

I will also change the current patched together brake booster for the '95.5 dual diaphragm design.  This means I need to relocate some stuff so that it will fit.  I am thinking moving the airbox forward about 4 inches, and relocating the power steering reservoir.  Here I need advice on the best way to extend the TB elboe (or however that hose is called), and the Fresh Air Vent hose.  Also, do you think the Ford Taurus fan shroud will be strong enough to carry the PS bottle?  I think it is, but since this is for a Jeep (read, bouncing all over the place), I thought I'd checked...  The other option I am considering (have yet to measure) is what Sharp recommended (using a 90* angle to rotate the bottle to the side and gain some space).  If the angle works, i will go with this option as a first choice, as it seems to me to put less stress on the shroud...  But what do you guys think?  By the way, how hard do you think it would be to move the stock  airbox?  I guess I'll have to fab up some brackets/support for the stock tray and rivet them into place (the originals seemed to be riveted), right?

Also, I still get hot air from the vent when I turn the ventt to open; anyonme know where to check this?  It seems the heater core is still receiving coolant, but I have NO idea where to look for issues (the controlling lever at the dash is working properly and has all the cables attached; it must be somewhere else in the system).  Any advice on where and what to check would be gret, as it would be awesome not to have to run with AC when wheeling!

Once I return from my vacation in May, I will be bringing back from the US the exhaust and intake manifold gaskets, which I will need to remove the broken exhaust manifold stud (I'll also take advantage of the fact that I have to take the intake manifold out anyway to enlarge the TB opening, which I still have on my pending list, and thus avoid getting any  crap in the combustion chanber).  I will also change the Oil Pressure Sending Unit, and, most likely, the seatbelts as well as the rear tail light (I need to raise the last one so that it peeks over the spare).

Also, once it arrives (the postal office in Costa Rica gives a whole new meaning to SNAIL mail!), I will replace the fuel pressure regulator with one of Sharp's, which should give me a few more ponies and will allow me to take better advantage of the cam and other mods I have on my rig.  Time permiting, I will also have the Cruise Control either fixed or replaced (VERY useful for when doing a 600 mile road trip!  My right foot was aching REALLY bad when I got to Costa Rica last time!).  Once all this is done, I should be ready to drive back to Panama without issues...
'94 YJ 2.5L with 4" RE lift, Superwinch EPi9.0, FoMoCo e-Fan, SD30 and SD35 w/ARB-5.13, 165A alt., 33" BFG KM2 on 15" AR wheels, Sony sound system, Pavement Ends Hardtop, Hydroboost

Offline Bounty Hunter

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Re: Things to check
« Reply #1 on: March 29, 2010, 11:35:13 AM »
Penzoil Synchromesh, or any synchromesh I would think, is more commonly available and acceptable for your transmission.

Offline jfrabat

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Re: Things to check
« Reply #2 on: March 29, 2010, 11:43:13 AM »
Thanks, Bounty.  I´ll see what I can find.  This time around, I am not doing the fluid changes myself (gotta work!), but since labor here is MUCH cheaper than in the US, it's just easier to have it done than doing it in my garage...
'94 YJ 2.5L with 4" RE lift, Superwinch EPi9.0, FoMoCo e-Fan, SD30 and SD35 w/ARB-5.13, 165A alt., 33" BFG KM2 on 15" AR wheels, Sony sound system, Pavement Ends Hardtop, Hydroboost

Offline Jeffy

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Re: Things to check
« Reply #3 on: March 29, 2010, 11:46:53 AM »
Thanks, Bounty.  I´ll see what I can find.  This time around, I am not doing the fluid changes myself (gotta work!), but since labor here is MUCH cheaper than in the US, it's just easier to have it done than doing it in my garage...
Check the FAQ under GL-3/GL-5
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Offline jfrabat

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Re: Things to check
« Reply #4 on: March 29, 2010, 12:14:36 PM »
OK, will check the FAQ.  What about the other stuff?

1. Engine whine
2. Best way to extend the air intake and hoses
3. Heat coming out in vent

Any idea on what to check for those (or most likely problem areas)?
'94 YJ 2.5L with 4" RE lift, Superwinch EPi9.0, FoMoCo e-Fan, SD30 and SD35 w/ARB-5.13, 165A alt., 33" BFG KM2 on 15" AR wheels, Sony sound system, Pavement Ends Hardtop, Hydroboost

TrailsLessTaken

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Re: Things to check
« Reply #5 on: March 29, 2010, 12:34:54 PM »
On the whine you say you hear it when turning, is that just when wheeling or just normal driving?  Your power steering could be overheating if its doing it when wheeling if you havent added a power steering cooler, or maybe a bearing is going out on your power steering pulley

Offline jfrabat

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Re: Things to check
« Reply #6 on: March 29, 2010, 12:38:24 PM »
On the whine you say you hear it when turning, is that just when wheeling or just normal driving?  Your power steering could be overheating if its doing it when wheeling if you havent added a power steering cooler, or maybe a bearing is going out on your power steering pulley

When driving...
'94 YJ 2.5L with 4" RE lift, Superwinch EPi9.0, FoMoCo e-Fan, SD30 and SD35 w/ARB-5.13, 165A alt., 33" BFG KM2 on 15" AR wheels, Sony sound system, Pavement Ends Hardtop, Hydroboost

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Things to check
« Reply #7 on: March 29, 2010, 01:45:35 PM »
By the way, how hard do you think it would be to move the stock  airbox?
i would look into doing it this way
i would think leave the metal support where it is and use two 1/2'' bolts with 2 sets of nylock nuts each - go thru the bottom of the airbox with each bolt, then have 1 nut to tighten the bolts to the plastic box (use big flat washers on each side), then have these bolts go thru the rubber grommets in the airbox support and use the other set of locking nuts on the bottom (and use large flat washers here as well on each side of the grommets) - tighten the nuts but not too much, just to hold it all together there. the only thing i don't know is if you would have enough room for the second bolt (the one closer to the firewall) - not sure if there are 4 inches available there between the current plastic post that goes in the grommet and the end of the airbox.
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
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Offline Jeffy

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Re: Things to check
« Reply #8 on: March 29, 2010, 02:06:49 PM »
I'd actually drill out the rivets and move the whole bracket.  If anything you can modify the bracket to move the plate forward.

Engine whine could be a number of things, water pump, belts, bearings on pulleys, PS pump, etc...

Heat coming off the duct is normal.  IIRC, the heater core is always open.  It shouldn't be blowing heat though.
« Last Edit: March 29, 2010, 02:07:37 PM by Jeffy »
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Offline jfrabat

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Re: Things to check
« Reply #9 on: March 29, 2010, 02:40:21 PM »
I'd actually drill out the rivets and move the whole bracket.  If anything you can modify the bracket to move the plate forward.

I was thinking along these lines as well...  I dont want to make any more holes in the stock airbox because it's just more potential for water to leak in during a river fording (keep in mind the ones on the last trip are relatively shallow because it was dry season; but dry season only lasts for 3 months around here!).  Besides, it looks simpler this way, even if it means adjusting the brackets.

Engine whine could be a number of things, water pump, belts, bearings on pulleys, PS pump, etc...

What's the best way to figure out which one it is?  Because none of those seem like a fun thing to chage out in the middle of nowhere or on a road on the way back to Panama...

Heat coming off the duct is normal.  IIRC, the heater core is always open.  It shouldn't be blowing heat though.

I used to be able to get cold (or rather ambien temperatre) air coming off the vent, but now I get heat.  I would like to get normal air coming in back again, as the half hard doors only give you a tiny little bit of an opening...  Is there a louver that shuts off flow to the heater core or something?  Maybe that's what's not working...
'94 YJ 2.5L with 4" RE lift, Superwinch EPi9.0, FoMoCo e-Fan, SD30 and SD35 w/ARB-5.13, 165A alt., 33" BFG KM2 on 15" AR wheels, Sony sound system, Pavement Ends Hardtop, Hydroboost

Offline Jeffy

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Re: Things to check
« Reply #10 on: March 29, 2010, 02:57:58 PM »
Use a dowel or long screwdriver and listen to the engine.  just be careful not to get it sucked into the belt or pulley.

I would guess that one of the air actuated traps isn't closing when you have it on VENT.  The vent traps should open and are not associated with the heat ducts.  You can see the driver side vent in my 'leak' thread.  The passenger side should be venting from the box with the flap.  If the flap isn't opening then it's driving air into the heater core which dumps out the center.
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline jfrabat

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Re: Things to check
« Reply #11 on: March 29, 2010, 05:08:30 PM »
Use a dowel or long screwdriver and listen to the engine.  just be careful not to get it sucked into the belt or pulley.

I would guess that one of the air actuated traps isn't closing when you have it on VENT.  The vent traps should open and are not associated with the heat ducts.  You can see the driver side vent in my 'leak' thread.  The passenger side should be venting from the box with the flap.  If the flap isn't opening then it's driving air into the heater core which dumps out the center.

I'll check the vents when I come back; I have seen them before, so I know where they are.  There is air coming in on both sides of the cab, but it comes out hot from under the dash (you can actually SMELL the heater, if you know what I mean), and the flap is visibly opening as well.  Anyway, I am looking on the FSM to see the diagram so that I can take a look, but I think this requires taking the whole dash out (which is a REAL PITA!).
'94 YJ 2.5L with 4" RE lift, Superwinch EPi9.0, FoMoCo e-Fan, SD30 and SD35 w/ARB-5.13, 165A alt., 33" BFG KM2 on 15" AR wheels, Sony sound system, Pavement Ends Hardtop, Hydroboost