Topic: Rear tire swing opinions and ?

[smashcoast]

I have the DirtWorx rear tire swing bumper which, I like the way it looks but even with my 33's it rattles to much for me.


here's what it looks like.

My question is I am going to use the bumper and make a new tire swing. I want to get the tire as close to the tailgate as possibe. Still mount the gerry can's and hi-lift as well.

I was wondering how high the tire should be from the top of the bumper? Should i leave it at it's current height?

Also was thinking about offsetting the tire to the passenger side and then doubling up the gerry can's on the opposite side.Do you think that would cause any problems?

Sorry so long and thanks for any response!

[oldjeep]

How about just building an upper bracket that ties into the top of the tire carrier and secures with a pin.  Should stop the rattle.  You're not goint to get much tighter to the body if you want to carry cans

[FourbangerYJ]

I agree with Chuck. Add a 2nd latch. Move your CB ant. You can build a mount for the latch to fit about where the sticker is on the tub.




I have 2 hinges and 2 latches. I have no rattles even with the 37.
These shots might give you some ideas.

[smashcoast]

Well i'm going to use your tire swing as my model. I like how it looks and the 2 latches look like the best way  to stop any rattles. I think I will build some sort of holder for the gerry cans that can be removed for when they are not needed.

i am gonna go off of your build in your project thread.

U dont have a copy right I should be worried about do you?

[Jeffy]

You might also want to still use bumpstops to put pressure on the rack so it doesn't rely just on the latches and hinge.

[FourbangerYJ]

Well i'm going to use your tire swing as my model. I like how it looks and the 2 latches look like the best way  to stop any rattles. I think I will build some sort of holder for the gerry cans that can be removed for when they are not needed.

i am gonna go off of your build in your project thread.

U dont have a copy right I should be worried about do you?

I do have a copyright on that swing out....for 1 miiiillion dollars I'll let you go off my designs.

Naw knock yourself out! If I didn't want people to do it I wouldn't have posted PICS and gave advice! I would like to see a build thread!
My latches are from Carr-lane. But the Detasco ones are real nice too. I like the 90* ones best. I'd go with some that are fairly heavy. It's been to long to remember what pound rating they have.

[FourbangerYJ]

Well i'm going to use your tire swing as my model. I like how it looks and the 2 latches look like the best way  to stop any rattles. I think I will build some sort of holder for the gerry cans that can be removed for when they are not needed.

i am gonna go off of your build in your project thread.

U dont have a copy right I should be worried about do you?

Thinking about this some more, are you gonna start from scratch or modify what you have? It seems like 90% of the work is done already. Adding a couple of latches is a lot less work than starting all over.

[smashcoast]

I was thinking about starting allover with the tire swing. I want to get the tire closer to the body and build a removable mount for the gerry cans. Also a rack above the tire for ice chest and camping gear.

[Jeffy]

I kind of like the swing away carriers that are hinged to the tailgate so they swing out together.  Kind of like the Bestop.  I've seen a few others that do that as well.

Also, keep in mind how much weight you'll be adding.  How many cans are you wanting?  How big is the cooler?  etc...

[FourbangerYJ]

I was thinking about starting allover with the tire swing. I want to get the tire closer to the body and build a removable mount for the gerry cans. Also a rack above the tire for ice chest and camping gear.

If I had to do it over again I would pretty much build it the same. I don't think I would use the bronze bushings. I have not had a single problem with them and they are dirt cheap! But with a big load on the swingout like my rack with camping gear,tire,highlift,ETC it would sag pretty bad when opened. Infact the one time I used my gear rack I just unloaded it first before I would open the tire carrier. Luckily it was not that big of a deal to do so but if you use the gear rack a lot it would not be fun.
Instead of the bronze bushings I think I would try some heim joints. Seems they are the rage now with the swing outs.

I kind of like the swing away carriers that are hinged to the tailgate so they swing out together.  Kind of like the Bestop.  I've seen a few others that do that as well.
Also, keep in mind how much weight you'll be adding.  How many cans are you wanting?  How big is the cooler?  etc...

I don't mind the tailgate and tire carrier to be independent of each other. It comes in real handy not to have the tailgate open when you are working on adding lights,wiring. Or getting things on or off the tire carrier. There is plenty of room to do what you need without having the tailgate in the way.

[Sine Deviance]

Those wheels look very familiar Nice spare carrier BTW.

[YJmechanic]

might seem overly simple but i just used the factory spare tire bumpers that come attached to the tailgate.  i just lined up the carrier with one of the bumpers when i put it together and the bumper holds it nice and tight with no rattles and one latch/hinge

[FourbangerYJ]

If I were to do this again I would seriously consider these tube adapters and a couple Jonny Joints for a pivot. Or any 1.25x12TPI joint.
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/125quot-Square-tube-adapter_p_1557.html
Check there clearance section, there is 2 of these for $8.00 ea.

[sharpxmen]

If I were to do this again I would seriously consider these tube adapters and a couple Jonny Joints for a pivot. Or any 1.25x12TPI joint.
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/125quot-Square-tube-adapter_p_1557.html
Check there clearance section, there is 2 of these for $8.00 ea.

since you're welding it anyway you can just use some cold rolled square bar drilled and tapped, no need to have a shoulder on it and just leave it out 1/2'' or so - you can chamfer the edges to for the portion that goes inside the tube and leave the part that you want out jsut as it is so it would stop right there when you slide it in. the $17 each seems steep to me.

[FourbangerYJ]

since you're welding it anyway you can just use some cold rolled square bar drilled and tapped, no need to have a shoulder on it and just leave it out 1/2'' or so - you can chamfer the edges to for the portion that goes inside the tube and leave the part that you want out jsut as it is so it would stop right there when you slide it in. the $17 each seems steep to me.

True, but most people don't have a 1.25x12TPI tap. Most of the suspension joints use that size. Plus that bung is threaded all the way thru. Lots of thread engagement and lots of room for adjustment.
To my knowledge Ballistic is the only ones that make a square tube adapter. You prolly could use a round one and fill the corners in with weld. I have not priced those in a long time last I checked the round ones were in the $10-12 range depending.