Author Topic: Tools  (Read 2376 times)

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Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Tools
« Reply #15 on: April 25, 2010, 12:59:04 PM »
  If you cant find a decent used american machine in your local I would suggest setting grizzly as the low line of quality.  Harbor freight machines are not even good scrap metal. 

the belt driven mill/drill machines are identical between HF and Grizzly and made in China - most of the parts are interchangeable, slight differences in the table size and travel  but nothing major. Grizzly has better lathes and the knee mills are better quality but they will step up in price quite a bit.

If you want better quality probably Jet is a step up, also King Canada have better quality and they are made in Taiwan (i think some of the Jet ones are made there too but i'm not sure) - same here, the price will be higher but you get what you pay for.

neither of the hobby class milling machines will be up to par as far as quality or precision regardless if they're Grizzly, Jet, HF or whatever

a compound slide table is about $150 and probably about $100 on sale.
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
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firebrick43

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Re: Tools
« Reply #16 on: April 25, 2010, 03:43:47 PM »
I was looking a larger machines so I didn't pay attention to the table top sized machines.  I eventually found some heavy american iron that wasnt worn out for a decent price along with a lot of tooling.  Buying new you will spend more for tooling than you will for the machine itself if you do much. 

Buying a package deal if its in good condition saves alot.  But it does take some patience to buy like that.

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Tools
« Reply #17 on: April 25, 2010, 04:10:53 PM »
I was looking a larger machines so I didn't pay attention to the table top sized machines.  I eventually found some heavy american iron that wasnt worn out for a decent price along with a lot of tooling.  Buying new you will spend more for tooling than you will for the machine itself if you do much. 

Buying a package deal if its in good condition saves alot.  But it does take some patience to buy like that.

when i was looking i did find a small size bridgeport for like $1500 that needed some work, but the problem is that even being small it weighs literally tons,. freight would have been a fortune and there is no way i can get it in my garage (or maybe there is if i would hire someone that does that for a living).
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

Offline oldjeep

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Re: Tools
« Reply #18 on: April 25, 2010, 04:21:25 PM »
when i was looking i did find a small size bridgeport for like $1500 that needed some work, but the problem is that even being small it weighs literally tons,. freight would have been a fortune and there is no way i can get it in my garage (or maybe there is if i would hire someone that does that for a living).

My buddy Nutter has bought a couple nice milling machines (Bridgeport and a Gordon) for pretty reasonable prices and paid a rigger to move them for him.  They were local moves, but the rigging compnay had the right stuff to move and place the extrememly heavy machines.
Chuck P
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firebrick43

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Re: Tools
« Reply #19 on: April 25, 2010, 09:29:37 PM »
Your thinking to much in the 21st century. 

With a pair of levers, a bit of blocking in 1", 2", 4" and 6", 6-8 2"x4' heavy pipe, and 4 8' 2x4s you can move most anything.  A heavy rope is helpfull.  A winch or comealong and a hydraulic jack help in certain situations as well. 

Lift the edge up of the machine with the levers and start working even around it slipping in blocks until you can get some 6" wood runners under it.  Lag the machine down to the runners.  set 2 2x4's down in front of the machine in the direction you want to take it.  lift the runners up and slip the pipes between the runners and the 2x4 track.  Slowly push/pry the machine forward, as one pipe comes out the back take it to the front.  use the levers, dont strain yourself.  As you reach the end of the track you can put down the other 2x4 overlapping/slightly offset the the inside/outside.  This works across gravel, grass or concrete.  Don't try the pipes directly on concrete as the tinniest pebble can stop every thing, use the 2x4. 

A low car trailer can be used to haul, some have decent ramps or use blocking and 4x4s as ramps.  Tie the heavy rope to the front of the trailer and go around the machine with a truckers knot.  As the levers are used to pry the runners up the ramps have some one purchase(taking in) the rope through the truckers knot.  A come along or pair of them(or even a block and tackle can be used.  Remember if the load is tall and top heavy to pull from the middle or 3/4's way up, not the runners so it doesn't go over backwards.  Tie down the load well to the trailer, many machines are top heavy so tie up top not down low. 

I have move several machines this way, yes it takes an hour or two, especially the first time, but it cost virtually nothing, the wood blocking is scrap, the pipes can be scrap, Even one of my pry bars is an old disc axle.  A winch on the front of the jeep can be a help but remember to take it very slow the first time you do something like this. 

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Tools
« Reply #20 on: April 25, 2010, 11:20:03 PM »
Your thinking to much in the 21st century. 

With a pair of levers, a bit of blocking in 1", 2", 4" and 6", 6-8 2"x4' heavy pipe, and 4 8' 2x4s you can move most anything.  A heavy rope is helpfull.  A winch or comealong and a hydraulic jack help in certain situations as well. 

Lift the edge up of the machine with the levers and start working even around it slipping in blocks until you can get some 6" wood runners under it.  Lag the machine down to the runners.  set 2 2x4's down in front of the machine in the direction you want to take it.  lift the runners up and slip the pipes between the runners and the 2x4 track.  Slowly push/pry the machine forward, as one pipe comes out the back take it to the front.  use the levers, dont strain yourself.  As you reach the end of the track you can put down the other 2x4 overlapping/slightly offset the the inside/outside.  This works across gravel, grass or concrete.  Don't try the pipes directly on concrete as the tinniest pebble can stop every thing, use the 2x4. 

A low car trailer can be used to haul, some have decent ramps or use blocking and 4x4s as ramps.  Tie the heavy rope to the front of the trailer and go around the machine with a truckers knot.  As the levers are used to pry the runners up the ramps have some one purchase(taking in) the rope through the truckers knot.  A come along or pair of them(or even a block and tackle can be used.  Remember if the load is tall and top heavy to pull from the middle or 3/4's way up, not the runners so it doesn't go over backwards.  Tie down the load well to the trailer, many machines are top heavy so tie up top not down low. 

I have move several machines this way, yes it takes an hour or two, especially the first time, but it cost virtually nothing, the wood blocking is scrap, the pipes can be scrap, Even one of my pry bars is an old disc axle.  A winch on the front of the jeep can be a help but remember to take it very slow the first time you do something like this. 

you gotta see my driveway first, if i leave the Jeep in first gear will turn the engine over - that's how steep it is
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
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Offline aw12345

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Re: Tools
« Reply #21 on: April 26, 2010, 07:06:14 PM »
Well Jeffy you got a winch that and a block will move some serious stuff.
Put whatever you are moving on some pipes or round poles and drag it with the winch
You can even rig a couple a pipes of the front bumper and a pulley and some chain to roll bar and use your winch as a crane, kinda gettho but it works
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Offline Jeffy

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Re: Tools
« Reply #22 on: April 26, 2010, 08:04:21 PM »
What am I moving?
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Offline FourbangerYJ

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Re: Tools
« Reply #23 on: April 26, 2010, 09:03:26 PM »
What am I moving?
Your mill, it can't stay on the truck.  :fish: :wall:
Scott~

Using tools you have not used in a while is like shaking hands with old friends. :nod:

Offline sharpxmen

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Re: Tools
« Reply #24 on: April 26, 2010, 09:06:06 PM »
What am I moving?

Your mill, it can't stay on the truck.  :fish: :wall:

 :roflol:
you guys are hilarious
'95 YJ, NSG370 6spd / Hurst shifter, Dana 300 + 4:1 Doubler / tri-stick, Custom skid, Super D35 / Auburn LSD / 4.88, 35x12.5x15 BFG KM2, 64mm t/b, 1.7 RollerRockers, MkVIII e-fan, Dual Diaph Booster
Latest: Corbeau BajaRS heated seats :dance: keeping warm the rear end

Offline Jeffy

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Re: Tools
« Reply #25 on: April 26, 2010, 10:40:13 PM »
Your mill, it can't stay on the truck.  :fish: :wall:
What did you guy's get me?
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."