Topic: Borla Headers for '91-'95 YJs?

[chrisfranklin]

My last few highway trips to Vegas and Oakland/SF from LA were a bear in terms of trying to keep up with traffic (4:10s, 31MTs). And recent events have suggested I am going to be on the highway a lot more with this Jeep in the months ahead.

Personally, I'd tend to just regear.   However my tires are decent and probably won't wear out for another 2-3 years.  And I was planning to go 4:88s when I moved to 33s or 35s on the next tire change (I remember Felipe saying it's a b@tch going from 31s and 4:88s to 33s and 4:88s)

So, I was considering buying a set of Borla headers.  At least for me, their SS cat-back has worked fine over the years I've had it.    

But I look around online and find out Borla only seems to be making headers for YJ 4Bangers for the years '87-'91!  Do I have this right?!  

I sent Borla an email saying I was looking for a set for a '94, so maybe they'll get around to making for the 91-95 years if they aren't already.  

  

[Bounty Hunter]

I've got a Borla on my '95 YJ, but bought it used so I can't speak of what model it was originally intended.  Bolted up fine.

I've heard many speak highly of 4.88 gears and 31" tires.

[jfrabat]

Dont know about the headers, but I would defenetly regear.  I did.  33's with 4.88 is not really bad, but after you've had 31's and 4.88, you kind of like being able to accelarate on the highway.  I still run 33's and 4.88, and I am happy with it, but I wish I could go lower on the R&P.

[chrisfranklin]

Dont know about the headers, but I would defenetly regear.  I did.  33's with 4.88 is not really bad, but after you've had 31's and 4.88, you kind of like being able to accelarate on the highway.  I still run 33's and 4.88, and I am happy with it, but I wish I could go lower on the R&P.

With me, I do 4:88s and 31s and I'll get used to the drive-ability and probably never move up to 33s/35s.   

Then again, maybe that's not such a bad thing.  I just keep my current 4banger on 4:88s and 31s and use it mostly on-road, then buy a second rig that's already built out quite a ways for trail runs.   I was looking at this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1993-Jeep-Wrangler-YJ-/130429416663?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item1e5e32f4d7#ht_871wt_1165  but I don't have the dough and I'm not looking to make payments on a loan for a trail rig

[jfrabat]

With me, I do 4:88s and 31s and I'll get used to the drive-ability and probably never move up to 33s/35s.   

Then again, maybe that's not such a bad thing.  I just keep my current 4banger on 4:88s and 31s and use it mostly on-road, then buy a second rig that's already built out quite a ways for trail runs.   I was looking at this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1993-Jeep-Wrangler-YJ-/130429416663?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item1e5e32f4d7#ht_871wt_1165  but I don't have the dough and I'm not looking to make payments on a loan for a trail rig

The problem with buying a built rig is that it was most likely used (read: ABUSED!), as very few people spend the dough to build a rig and not use it...  A stocker is ussually not taken off road often, so it is more likely to be in better conditions (especially all the things you CANT see!).

[Wheezer]

I have a complete Borla system in my '95 YJ.  It was a bear to get it in, it contacted the bellhousing, the transmission, and the bellypan. After several calls to Borla to try and resolve the fitment issues they stopped taking my calls.  I ended up dimpling the pipe where it hit the bellhousing, notching the bellypan, and just living with the pipe against the bottom of the transmission.  It's still very close to several places along the run to the point that when the engine lugs and vibrates it "clangs" annoyingly.  The other aspect of the design that I have come to despise is that all of the joints are slip type.  So if you have to work on your vehicle in an area where the exhaust is in the way you have to start at the tip and work your way forward until you have dismantled the exhaust system enough to access the area that needs work.  It is very frustrating. I am not alone in this experience; George "Moab Man" Pandoff of Moab Jeeper magazine had the very same experience when he installed a Borla system on his '97 TJ.  You can read about it online at moabjeeper(dot)com. and he even told them that he was installing the pipe for an article in a magazine and they still stopped taking his calls.  I just wanted to let you hear about my experience in installing this exhaust, your results may differ.

Wheezer

[chrisfranklin]

I have a complete Borla system in my '95 YJ.  It was a bear to get it in, it contacted the bellhousing, the transmission, and the bellypan. After several calls to Borla to try and resolve the fitment issues they stopped taking my calls.  I ended up dimpling the pipe where it hit the bellhousing, notching the bellypan, and just living with the pipe against the bottom of the transmission.  It's still very close to several places along the run to the point that when the engine lugs and vibrates it "clangs" annoyingly.  The other aspect of the design that I have come to despise is that all of the joints are slip type.  So if you have to work on your vehicle in an area where the exhaust is in the way you have to start at the tip and work your way forward until you have dismantled the exhaust system enough to access the area that needs work.  It is very frustrating. I am not alone in this experience; George "Moab Man" Pandoff of Moab Jeeper magazine had the very same experience when he installed a Borla system on his '97 TJ.  You can read about it online at moabjeeper(dot)com. and he even told them that he was installing the pipe for an article in a magazine and they still stopped taking his calls.  I just wanted to let you hear about my experience in installing this exhaust, your results may differ.

Wheezer

that's a bummer.  Sorry to hear that.   Hate that BS

Maybe now's the time for me to throw an 8.8 with discs in the back end along with 4:88s front/rear

[Bounty Hunter]

I run Borla's header only, the rest of the exhaust is custom. The header was cut just below the collector and o2 bung in order to route the exhaust in front of the oil sump.  I had no fitment issues with my install.

[chrisfranklin]

The problem with buying a built rig is that it was most likely used (read: ABUSED!), as very few people spend the dough to build a rig and not use it...  A stocker is ussually not taken off road often, so it is more likely to be in better conditions (especially all the things you CANT see!).

You have a point there, Felipe.  I figure its hit or miss on buying used, "built" Jeeps. 

On the one hand, you may spend 10-15k and get a rig in good condition that has 30k+ worth of parts/shop-time in it.  On the other hand you may spend 10-15k and discover you've got a rig with a dying engine, expensive drive-train components that'll need major repair, if not replacement, and a bunch of hidden problems that went unmentioned by the seller and unasked about by you.

Still, if for example, somebody was buying my jeep, they'd for sure get a ride that's been used on a few trails and has a dent or two and plenty of under-body scrapes.  But they'd also be getting a ride that's been fairly meticulously maintained for the last 11 years. 

But I have heard of guys who thrash rides and don't take maintenance seriously and will just lay all that up on the next owner.

[jfrabat]

Still, if for example, somebody was buying my jeep, they'd for sure get a ride that's been used on a few trails and has a dent or two and plenty of under-body scrapes.  But they'd also be getting a ride that's been fairly meticulously maintained for the last 11 years. 

But I have heard of guys who thrash rides and don't take maintenance seriously and will just lay all that up on the next owner.

Exactly my point...  You don't know which one you are getting when you buy.  If I ever decide to buy mine, the buyer will also be getting a good deal; I do wheel my rig in mud, but I have the underbody proffessionally cleaned after each ride with pressure washers and also use a graphite lubricant to avoid rust.  Also, all parts and mods are made thinking of longevity, as I drive this thing 600 miles between Panama and Costa Rica every 3 months.  But then again, once in Panama, it gets driven twice a month (maybe 10 miles each time) and that's it...  And all maintenance is done with more regularity than what the manual says (every time I cross a river, for example, I replace the diff oil, and that happens a couple of times a year).

But some fellow club members are not so careful, so if you were to buy their rigs, your luck would not be as good... 

So like you said, it's a toss up.  You can get with a rig that's worth A LOT more than if you were to buy the parts (God knows my rig would NEVER sell for what I have put into it!), but you can also easily get a Lemon.  I think an important question is always to ask WHY the seller is selling the rig...

Felipe