Topic: Innovate LC-1 Install

[melbill]

I am getting ready to install my Innovate Motor Sports LC-1.  Right now I am just using it to measure AFR, and send it to a gauge so I can make sure my fuel pressure regulator is adjusted properly. 

First, I am wondering how to connect the stock O2 sensor wiring to the second analog out (first is going to a AFR gauge), or is there a better way to get the sensor to "talk" to the computer. 

Secondly, where in the cab should I connect to a switched hot wire protected by a minimum of a 5 amp fuse? 

Lastly, The instructions say to mount the LC-1 unit under the vehicle and run most of the wires inside.  Is there a reason not to mount the unit inside and run the O2 sensor wires out?  I know they are bigger, but I could seal the hole it makes sense to be that having the unit inside would protect it better.  I am in upstate NY and there is a lot of salt on the road all winter not to mention off road hazards.

Any other information anyone has learned from installing/using this unit would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
Bill     

[sharpxmen]

the wideband O2 wires (the ones that go to the actual LC-1 unit) are too short to install it inside the cab, so have it as high as you can somewhere in the engine bay, in my case it ended up on the driver side inner fender.

Did you welded the bung that comes to the unit to your downpipe? If you're planning to use the stock mounting hole for the wideband O2 then you don't have an option so you'll have to use the second analog out for the O2 input to the PCM, if you added the second mount location for the wideband then for now leave the stock O2 for the PCM. If you read the instructions you'll see that they recommend using the sensor ground for the green wire sensor ground going to the LC-1, so that is the first thing to keep in mind if you'll want to use this for O2 input to the PCM in the future.

I used a relay to power the LC-1 and these are my connections, my analog outs are used the other way around compared to yours so keep that in mind. ECU referred in this table is the Jeep PCM



EDIT: last line in the bottom table is the 12v power that goes to the LC-1 and not to the ECU/PCM and is the same as the first line in the top table (just to clarify and avoid confusion). (87) is the relay pin. W-Pin column in top table is for the weatherpack connector i used (something i added and not part of vehicle or LC-1)

If you want to use one of the Analog out connections from the LC-1 to replace the stock O2 output you will need to disconnect the stock O2 sensor.

[melbill]

Sharp-

Thank you for all that information.  It will make it much easier to wire.  I want to make sure I got it straight. You used 1 weatherpack connector and 1 relay.  What amperage relay did you use?  I haven't put a second bung in my header yet, I am using a Clifford header.  Is there  a reason not to use the one that is already there?  I don't know what else I will use it for in the forseeable future, but I do not know my options either.

As always, thanks for your help.

Bill

[sharpxmen]

you can use the stock location, i didn't know what your plan is that's why i asked.

i used a 30 amp relay but i cannot remember what the recommendation was, to ballpark it use one at least the value of the recommended fuse, larger won't hurt.

I used 2 weatherpack connectors as i have an SSI-4 and the split second unit as well. for the O2 signal i used a 2 prong one, in and out from the stock o2 on one side which i can jump in case i want to go back to stock, the other side is only one connected to the LC-1. For the rest of them i used another connector, for power and grounds mainly which went with the other connections (it was a 10 prong one since i needed a lot of things to be jumped). I cut the stock harness right above the clutch master (somewhere in that area) about where it bends down towards the PCM - in my case i planned it so i can unplug all the devices and plug the harness back in just as stock.

in your case you can use 1 connector and since the only thing you'll need to cut is the o2 signal wire going to the PCM - you can have both ends connected there (the one coming from O2 and the one going to the PCM) along with vehicle ground, sensor ground, power, etc - you can then use another connector to jump the wire you cut to go back to stock if you want at some point (not necessary but you never know) - i have that just hanging there on the harness so i can plug it back in if needed.

since the innovate wires are so darn thin i used a large heatshrink tubing to go over the connector and the wire and make it more sturdy (actually i put 2 one on top of the other).

[melbill]

Thank you very much.  I read the instructions that came with it, but I was nor sure how to make it all work.  This helps me understand much better.  I was feeling like I was getting way over my head, but that never stopped me before. 

The instructions said to wire it to a fuse of at least 5 amps.  Using the relay seems like a much better way to go.  Also the weatherpack connectors beats my idea of soldering each wire.  I like to be able to return things to stock if needed.

I am sure I will have more questions.

Thanks again
Bill

[sharpxmen]

you need to use a relay regardless, the switched 12v+ off the ignition won't hold to add the O2 heater to the circuit but that's when it needs to power the LC-1 so i used it for the command of the relay - can't remember exactly but i think that's the way they recommend it in the manual as well. I used the Red/White wire for the power side of the relay just because of the location so i didn't need to run another one from the battery but you can do that if you don't want to splice that one - since you're removing the stock O2 you can use that to power the LC-1 (at least that was my logic of using it).