Author Topic: dana 30/35 upgrades  (Read 3031 times)

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troysjeep

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dana 30/35 upgrades
« on: February 10, 2006, 10:23:46 AM »
I just purchased 4.88 ring and pinion gears, My next purchase will be lockers with the 30 spline upgraded shafts, I four wheel in mud and occasionally rock, will this set up be ok? I wnt with 4.88 because with 33" tires, I lost highway speed bad! I'm talking cruse 55 in thr'd. Anyway I hope I'm making the right move. Any suggestions? Thanks

SMC4WD

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dana 30/35 upgrades
« Reply #1 on: February 10, 2006, 10:28:26 AM »
So in the other post you asked about the differences between OX and ARB.  

You may be leaving yourself without a choice...  
Does OX make a 30 spline D30 locker?

By the way, I'm running 4.88's and 35's...   Very happy with hwy speeds...  So you'll love 4.88's and 33's!

troysjeep

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dana 30/35 upgrades
« Reply #2 on: February 10, 2006, 10:32:36 AM »
Darn, Good eye, Why wouldt they make it? Any way now Im limited...

SMC4WD

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dana 30/35 upgrades
« Reply #3 on: February 10, 2006, 10:39:31 AM »
No you're not.

Go ARB all the way!!

troysjeep

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dana 30/35 upgrades
« Reply #4 on: February 10, 2006, 10:53:32 AM »
I guess I was looking at the extra hardware that can create more work to keep using it, compressor failing, leaks, will it be there when I need it? Although I do like the idea of having air to use on tires when I need to air back up. Thanks,

SMC4WD

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dana 30/35 upgrades
« Reply #5 on: February 10, 2006, 11:01:49 AM »
It's the battle that's been going on for ages...  

OX has their issues too.   Everyone of them do.   Shop around, ask around then use your best judgement.

wildman4x4nut

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dana 30/35 upgrades
« Reply #6 on: February 10, 2006, 12:12:39 PM »
Quote from: "troysjeep"
I guess I was looking at the extra hardware that can create more work to keep using it, compressor failing, leaks, will it be there when I need it? Although I do like the idea of having air to use on tires when I need to air back up. Thanks,


You do not want to use the ARB compressor to air your tires back up. This is the #1 reason for failure of the compressor. If you want to air up tires then do a OBA system or a CO2 tank.

Offline Jeffy

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dana 30/35 upgrades
« Reply #7 on: February 10, 2006, 01:00:28 PM »
DTD/Superior offers a 30 spline Detroit, OX and ARB for the D35. For the Dana 30, there is only the ARB.

Honestly, the Dana 30 is better up to the task of larger tires then the Dana 35c.  You already have the larger 297x U-joints and no disconnects.  With 33's it shouldn't be a problem especially if you're not rockcrawling.

Honestly, if it was me, I'd probably get some HD 27 spline shafts and use the stock as spares.  The problem I see with going 30 spline, is if you do break, you better be carring your own spares.  Finding someone with a 27 spline shaft is a lot easier...
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SMC4WD

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dana 30/35 upgrades
« Reply #8 on: February 10, 2006, 04:25:10 PM »
I'm running 30 spline fronts, but also the Warn hub conversion kit.  

I'm running OX u-joints too

If something up there breaks...  I'll unlock the hubs and limp home...

I'm running Warn's small bolt pattern hub kit, so it uses those cheesy hubs.  I carry another one of those as a spare.  With 4.88 gears and my luck, I'll end up breaking the pinion gear.  :(

wildman4x4nut

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dana 30/35 upgrades
« Reply #9 on: February 10, 2006, 08:09:26 PM »
SMC,
The small hubs in the Warn kit really aren't that bad. I have been running them for over a year now and just now broke one. And I would rather break the hub than anything else. 15 minutes to replace a broken hub!!
I took out the hub due to a broken U-joint and you don't have that issue.

SMC4WD

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dana 30/35 upgrades
« Reply #10 on: February 10, 2006, 08:41:11 PM »
Ya, that's what I meant, just not what I typed.

I would much rather break one of those hubs than anything else up there.

There is such a thing as over-building.  By making one thing soo strong, it moves the weak link somewhere else.  Many philosophies are to keep the weakest part, the simplest part to fix.  

Adding up what I've got up there, the true weak linls are the hubs and the pinion gear.  So with Warn warranting the easiest thing to fix, the weak link is a 'no-brainer'.

Offline jagular7

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dana 30/35 upgrades
« Reply #11 on: February 11, 2006, 10:03:01 AM »
When modifying your Jeep, always consider what things will go wrong and the availability of spares, whether stock or aftermarket.

There has been a lot of talk about axle shafts which is a considerable weak link in the Jeeps Wranglers, same as the AMC 20 2-pce shafts in CJs. But their limits usually are consistent with weight, tire size, and hp.

One thing that hasn't been discussed is the output shaft of the 231 and/or rear ds. The rear output of the 231 is a slip yoke design and the rear ds is a single piece. Consider you go larger tires, regear the axles, and lock them, maybe add new brakes, add lift for larger tires, etc,  and didn't consider the rear ds and joints. That's probably the next archilles in the system. When the rear ds has to come out, you don't have a way of sealing the output shaft of the 231 due to the design of the output shaft. Slip Yoke Eliminators (SYE) kits fix that, but require a new rear ds. Cost is upwards of $400. Keeping someone's old rear ds as a spare could work, but only if you damage the rear ds. Consider a SYE and new rear ds. But also consider different pinion yokes. You'll prefer 'u' bolts over the straps. There is less deflection in the u-bolts and replacement is easier. Straps use a bolt that threads into the yoke. Breaking that and you could possibly not be able to get it out of the yoke. U-bolts are secured with a nut and are separate from the yoke.

Just someplace else to think and plan about.
Jagular7
97 SE - Rubbered and locked for fun
94 SE - stock, collecting parts for 37s

troysjeep

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dana 30/35 upgrades
« Reply #12 on: February 19, 2006, 09:13:02 AM »
Good thinking on the u-joints, I noticed OX makes a 28 spline but that would also be hard to find in a pinch. I'm tempted to keep the 27 spline on the d30. I beleave the shafts are built stronger than stock? Also Id rather break the shaft and have a spare on board than to break the pinion. I hate the thought of breaking anything but it does happen. :x

Offline Jeffy

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dana 30/35 upgrades
« Reply #13 on: February 19, 2006, 01:41:36 PM »
Quote from: "jagular7"
When modifying your Jeep, always consider what things will go wrong and the availability of spares, whether stock or aftermarket.

There has been a lot of talk about axle shafts which is a considerable weak link in the Jeeps Wranglers, same as the AMC 20 2-pce shafts in CJs. But their limits usually are consistent with weight, tire size, and hp.

One thing that hasn't been discussed is the output shaft of the 231 and/or rear ds. The rear output of the 231 is a slip yoke design and the rear ds is a single piece. Consider you go larger tires, regear the axles, and lock them, maybe add new brakes, add lift for larger tires, etc,  and didn't consider the rear ds and joints. That's probably the next archilles in the system. When the rear ds has to come out, you don't have a way of sealing the output shaft of the 231 due to the design of the output shaft. Slip Yoke Eliminators (SYE) kits fix that, but require a new rear ds. Cost is upwards of $400. Keeping someone's old rear ds as a spare could work, but only if you damage the rear ds. Consider a SYE and new rear ds. But also consider different pinion yokes. You'll prefer 'u' bolts over the straps. There is less deflection in the u-bolts and replacement is easier. Straps use a bolt that threads into the yoke. Breaking that and you could possibly not be able to get it out of the yoke. U-bolts are secured with a nut and are separate from the yoke.

Just someplace else to think and plan about.


Well, I'd rahter have my 'fuse' be a U-joint then anything in the axle. (Non-FF).  The biggest problem with straps is people overtightening them.  They are only supposed to be tightened to 14lbs-ft I believe.  Overtightening the bolts stretches them and put them under tension.  U-bolts are a bit better since it's more difficult to stretch them.  If you make the U-joint the fuse then you'll probably want to bring a extra set of U-bolts.  Also, you'll probably want to keep U-joints on hand.  Using common standard U-joints sizes will be helpful if you need to ask for a spare.  YJ's sometimes ahve two different U-joints in the driveshaft so this can be a PITA.

I still run a stock driveshaft though.  It works and I'm not all that worried.  The driveshaft angles are fine and so are the U-joints.  Why haven't I changed it?  Well, I'm not one to dump money into a SYE and driveshaft just to change my mind and go with a complete T-case.  So, I make due with what I have for now.  I still haven't decided on what I'll be doing though.
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
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"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Offline Jeffy

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dana 30/35 upgrades
« Reply #14 on: February 19, 2006, 01:45:35 PM »
Quote from: "jagular7"
When modifying your Jeep, always consider what things will go wrong and the availability of spares, whether stock or aftermarket.

There has been a lot of talk about axle shafts which is a considerable weak link in the Jeeps Wranglers, same as the AMC 20 2-pce shafts in CJs. But their limits usually are consistent with weight, tire size, and hp.

One thing that hasn't been discussed is the output shaft of the 231 and/or rear ds. The rear output of the 231 is a slip yoke design and the rear ds is a single piece. Consider you go larger tires, regear the axles, and lock them, maybe add new brakes, add lift for larger tires, etc,  and didn't consider the rear ds and joints. That's probably the next archilles in the system. When the rear ds has to come out, you don't have a way of sealing the output shaft of the 231 due to the design of the output shaft. Slip Yoke Eliminators (SYE) kits fix that, but require a new rear ds. Cost is upwards of $400. Keeping someone's old rear ds as a spare could work, but only if you damage the rear ds. Consider a SYE and new rear ds. But also consider different pinion yokes. You'll prefer 'u' bolts over the straps. There is less deflection in the u-bolts and replacement is easier. Straps use a bolt that threads into the yoke. Breaking that and you could possibly not be able to get it out of the yoke. U-bolts are secured with a nut and are separate from the yoke.

Just someplace else to think and plan about.


Well, I'd rahter have my 'fuse' be a U-joint then anything in the axle. (Non-FF).  The biggest problem with straps is people overtightening them.  They are only supposed to be tightened to 14lbs-ft I believe.  Overtightening the bolts stretches them and put them under tension.  U-bolts are a bit better since it's more difficult to stretch them.  If you make the U-joint the fuse then you'll probably want to bring a extra set of U-bolts.  Also, you'll probably want to keep U-joints on hand.  Using common standard U-joints sizes will be helpful if you need to ask for a spare.  YJ's sometimes ahve two different U-joints in the driveshaft so this can be a PITA.

I still run a stock driveshaft though.  It works and I'm not all that worried.  The driveshaft angles are fine and so are the U-joints.  Why haven't I changed it?  Well, I'm not one to dump money into a SYE and driveshaft just to change my mind and go with a complete T-case.  So, I make due with what I have for now.  I still haven't decided on what I'll be doing though.
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
My Jeep: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=2783.0
"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."