Topic: Outside the box front end

[drunkencityworker]

Ok I am opening this up for discussion.
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I am looking for outside the box ideas on upgrading my front axle.
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Using this thread to log in ideas,pros,cons and cost of upgrading my front axle
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[drunkencityworker]

Scenario 1.

My current dana 30 has chromo in and out w 760 ujoint on drivers side and a lockrite. 1ton steering and tie rod flip.
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Continue to build the 30.
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Chromo other side $350
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Truss the crap out of it $50
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Lock out hub conversion to try and keep weak link on the outside $850

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Pros
keep my bolt pattern
keep my steering
Hub conversion will eliminate the unibearing to a rebuildable/servicable type bearing , keep week link(hub) on the outside, as well as ability to flip hubs and full float home.
Keeps dana 30 clearance.
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Cons
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Polishing a turd
even trussed axle tubes relativley weak
might be hard on pinion bearing then stuck investing even more into the 30
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Cost $1250

[DodgeMudder]

What size do you run/plan to run?

[neale_rs]

Everything except the hub conversion.  It just costs too much.

[jagular7]

If you had money, time, and a shop, I would look into a custom assembly of readily available components. Take a JK D44 front housing, shave around ring gear, attach thicker wall tubing, add Spider 60 knuckles/inner C's, RCV CV axles, 3-link the front axle, high steer, hydraulic assist, riding on 37-42s on 17's.  

There is some discussion on Pirate right now for something like this but using the shaved JK D44 with the tubes, knuckles, brakes, steering of TJ D30 to keep the Jeep strong, cheap and legal for some Euro country.

[FourbangerYJ]

With your new motor there is no way I would spend any more  money on your D30. What ever upgrades you do you can't make the ring gear any bigger.
D44 would be a minimum. IMO

[neale_rs]

X2...didn't notice the engine involved!

[Bounty Hunter]

It's a YJ so your front axle options are a much easier install than a TJ or XJ.

I'd recommend something similar to the two d44's I'm building.  Starting with a high-pinion d44 housing from a '78-'79 3/4t Ford, then cut the inner C's and narrow to Waggy width.  Assemble with Waggy axleshafts will keep the cost of custom shafts out of the equation and keep the width manageable.  Then assemble the outers with either Chevy knuckles (6x5.5") or Ford (5x5") depending on what wheel pattern you choose.  I chose the 6lug to match the Isuzu rear d44.

[Jeffy]

It's a YJ so your front axle options are a much easier install than a TJ or XJ.

I'd recommend something similar to the two d44's I'm building.  Starting with a high-pinion d44 housing from a '78-'79 3/4t Ford, then cut the inner C's and narrow to Waggy width.  Assemble with Waggy axleshafts will keep the cost of custom shafts out of the equation and keep the width manageable.  Then assemble the outers with either Chevy knuckles (6x5.5") or Ford (5x5") depending on what wheel pattern you choose.  I chose the 6lug to match the Isuzu rear d44.

That's what I'd do.  A lot cheaper then trying to screw around with JK stuff and a decent upgrade over a polished stock 30.  Except to be different, I'd go with a Toy 8" with a TRD locker.

[sharpxmen]

It's a YJ so your front axle options are a much easier install than a TJ or XJ.

I'd recommend something similar to the two d44's I'm building.  Starting with a high-pinion d44 housing from a '78-'79 3/4t Ford, then cut the inner C's and narrow to Waggy width.  Assemble with Waggy axleshafts will keep the cost of custom shafts out of the equation and keep the width manageable.  Then assemble the outers with either Chevy knuckles (6x5.5") or Ford (5x5") depending on what wheel pattern you choose.  I chose the 6lug to match the Isuzu rear d44.

how 'bout a writeup 

[Jeffy]

how 'bout a writeup 

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/yjrcdana44/

[drunkencityworker]

If you had money, time, and a shop, I would look into a custom assembly of readily available components. Take a JK D44 front housing, shave around ring gear, attach thicker wall tubing, add Spider 60 knuckles/inner C's, RCV CV axles, 3-link the front axle, high steer, hydraulic assist, riding on 37-42s on 17's.  

There is some discussion on Pirate right now for something like this but using the shaved JK D44 with the tubes, knuckles, brakes, steering of TJ D30 to keep the Jeep strong, cheap and legal for some Euro country.

I am subscribed to that thread...lol

[drunkencityworker]

That's what I'd do.  A lot cheaper then trying to screw around with JK stuff and a decent upgrade over a polished stock 30.  Except to be different, I'd go with a Toy 8" with a TRD locker.

Jeff....where can I get a good easy read on toy axles...do they make one that would fit up front and be an upgrade

[drunkencityworker]

Scenario 2

I FB Currie and got a quote on a custom axle.

For $3100 they would make me a "309" LOL

Pros

It would be driver drop 9 inch housing with dana 30 c's on it
It would have high pinion 3rd member with 3.73(to match) gears and an ARB
I would be able to keep my current 1ton steering set up
I would be able to keep the current bolt pattern of my marsh beadlocks
It would come with chromo 31 spline inner axles that use 760 size ujoints
9inch has better clearance than a 60 not sure compared to a 44
Would save some in not reconfiguring the rear bolt pattern ,new beads and steering

Cons

The uni bearing would become the week point
Add the hub conversion to keep the week link on outside of axle and easy fix and still be able to float home if no fix.
Price adding hub conversion would push it to $3900

[aw12345]

Dana 60 or an Dana 44 JK axle that is built up anything else for a V8 and a heavy foot will granate. Stock old dana 44 front axles have skimpy shafts and spicer 760 U joints then add 37" tires and a V8 and you do more wrenching than wheelin