Topic: 62 mm TB swap help needed

[karan]

Hi Family,

Today i started to swap the bored out TB.i had a positive attitude, 62 mm TB ,10 mm
socket, a screw driver and a 20 mm torx bit. and now i am a dumb jeeper with two dumber questions
how to take these two off
1)the throttle cable
2)the air intake tubing

[DOTSON53]

The throttle cable should pop off with a screw driver. If its the cruise control it will slide out. The intake will have a hose clamp around the throttle body.You might also want to buy a repair manual from autozone or napa they come in handy.

[karan]

Thanks Dotson53:)

Family,

i finally swapped it.  i cant believe i did it myself that too on the parking lot of my apartment building.

Now, my experience of 3 km of driving is::
jeeps very responsive now
i also feel it runs smoother
i could say i can notice some power gains.
i will drive on highway tonight and post my experience.

Problem: check engine light is on, although the rpm settled back to 800 rpm range at idle.
what to do with the check engine light now? please help.

[jfrabat]

You can simply disconnect the battery for about 5 minutes, and it will go away (if it comes back, it's because you really do have a problem, so check the connections to all the sensores, and make sure there are no accidentally disconnected vacuum lines).

[chardrc]

you can also check the code by fallowing the procedure in the link

http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,3419.0.html
 post the code and someone will interpret what it means... also do the computer reset like jfrabat suggested

[karan]

thanks guys,i will do it, just to add, i did disconnect the -ve battery terminal before starting the procedure and only connected after
i was done tightening the last screw.

[karan]

Ok now, i disconnected the battery -ve terminal for more than 5 minutes, reconnected started the jeep, check engine light on again.
i also took the jeep for a highway ride.

Issues noticed::

Jeep tries to die when i tried to accelerate fast.
like from a street with 45 m/h merging to a street with 65 m/h, the jeep dies/hesitates and after a couple of hiccups it gains desired speed.
its happening all the time on accelerating fast

check engine light is still on.

* The Throttle position sensor was jammed on my 2.5 body, one screw wont open, so i had to take that to the mechanic who some how
managed to take that out after doing everything {small hammering included}
coujld that be the culprit, i mean could the TPS be gone?

what else could be wrong.
I will look for the error codes now.

[sharpxmen]

what year Jeep do you have?

[karan]

what year Jeep do you have?

Its a 2000 Jeep TJ 2.5

[karan]

Ok so i googled and did 3 hours of research on internet, and every place i found the same info
a defective TPS seems to be the reason, all the indications and side effects that i am experiencing
match with the defective TPS behavior.

Now i want to know would it be ok to keep driving like this for 2-3 days before changing the TPS or shall i not touch my jeep till i
change the TPS? i dont mind the defective TPS for 1-2 days as long as i can drive my jeep and it doesnt hurt my jeep in anyway.
Thanks again to every body helping me out

[sharpxmen]

make sure that little rubber elbow for the MAP sensor on the t/b is not cracked or plugged.

What do the codes say?

[sharpxmen]

Ok so i googled and did 3 hours of research on internet, and every place i found the same info
a defective TPS seems to be the reason, all the indications and side effects that i am experiencing
match with the defective TPS behavior.

Now i want to know would it be ok to keep driving like this for 2-3 days before changing the TPS or shall i not touch my jeep till i
change the TPS? i dont mind the defective TPS for 1-2 days as long as i can drive my jeep and it doesnt hurt my jeep in anyway.
Thanks again to every body helping me out

it is very likely to be the TPS but doesn't hurt to get the codes, if it's the TPS that's the code you'll get and then you know for sure.

[karan]

make sure that little rubber elbow for the MAP sensor on the t/b is not cracked or plugged.

What do the codes say?

Thanks Sharpxmen, i checked the rubber elbow as you instructed, its good.
i did the code test, i dont think i got it right, i tried several times.
codes started with all 0000000s then went through all 11111s to 99999s
each time same thing, with all light goin on off and meters dancing.
after going from 0000000s all the way sequentially to 99999999s, it showed the odometer reading and kept showing it.

then i just appl;ied my own stupid formula and checked what series shows the check engine light on
that is:: 333333333 444444444 55555555 66666666 88888888
on 00000000 11111111 22222222 77777777 99999999 check engine light was off.
i dont think its helpful!

[Bounty Hunter]

Sounds like a bad TPS.

As for checking your own codes, the 0000000 11111111 etc. is the gauge cluster cycling through a diagnostic test and has nothing to do with trouble codes.  If you get this, you released the odometer reset button too soon, or your model jeep doesn't display diagnostic codes using the self-test.

Try this:
Key off.
Push and hold the odometer reset button.
Turn key to run (not start).
Turn key off.
Release odometer reset button.

Trouble codes should display in the odometer window.

[karan]

Sounds like a bad TPS.

As for checking your own codes, the 0000000 11111111 etc. is the gauge cluster cycling through a diagnostic test and has nothing to do with trouble codes.  If you get this, you released the odometer reset button too soon, or your model jeep doesn't display diagnostic codes using the self-test.

Try this:
Key off.
Push and hold the odometer reset button.
Turn key to run (not start).
Turn key off.
Release odometer reset button.

Trouble codes should display in the odometer window.

Thanks Bounty Hunter, i followed the steps and all that gets displayed doing your steps is
2.5
after displaying 2.5 nothing else is displayed, i waited and tried the same procedure many times but always 2.5 is displayed.
what would that mean?