Topic: good price for a dana 44

[neale_rs]

The Waggy d44s (swapping in both front and rear) are a tried and true swap that works.  The Ford 8.8 is also fully tested by many Jeepers.  Very few Cherokees and Comanches had the D44 so they may be hard to find.  My D44 seems to be from a late 70s or early 80s dodge truck, I've never been able to pinpoint the exact year.  Also, the D44 is much stronger than the D35, there are some strange numbers posted around but the real world experiences speak for themselves.  If you really get into fabbing you could get almost any D44 and have it narrowed so that Cherokee axle shafts fit in it.

[C.Redbeardd]

I run both front and rear D44's from an '89 grand wagoneer. Pretty simple swap. Driver side diff in the front. Had it regeared. Had to cut and weld new spring perches and shock mounts. They use the same u-joints, so I didnt have to change the driveshafts or have them modified. They are six lug though, but I had a pretty simple fix for that.. Six lug wheels. :D However, I think they are about an inch or a little over an inch wider. Not too shabby..

[C.Redbeardd]

Oh, and it only cost me $100 bucks to convert the front into using manual hubs :P

[stan98tj]

The Waggy d44s (swapping in both front and rear) are a tried and true swap that works.  The Ford 8.8 is also fully tested by many Jeepers.  Very few Cherokees and Comanches had the D44 so they may be hard to find.  My D44 seems to be from a late 70s or early 80s dodge truck, I've never been able to pinpoint the exact year.  Also, the D44 is much stronger than the D35, there are some strange numbers posted around but the real world experiences speak for themselves.  If you really get into fabbing you could get almost any D44 and have it narrowed so that Cherokee axle shafts fit in it.

if the d44 from the waggy doesnt have a center mounted diff, how will i get it to bolt up on the rear end?

[Jeffy]

if the d44 from the waggy doesnt have a center mounted diff, how will i get it to bolt up on the rear end?

Extend the driveshaft and bolt it up?  The offset doesn't really matter as long as the U-joint is still working within it's spec.

[4BangerTJ]

I can tell yoy from personal experience the ford 8.8 is the best route IMO. I had the same questions for these guys just two months ago they gave me the info and I ran with it. Got the 8.8 for 200 brackets for 200 welding was 200 master gear and overhaul kit with new seals and bearing for 469 for front and rear rubi parking brake cables and put it in. Runs great. Cheap and easy to get parts for. Stronger than a 44. Rear disk brakes. Yes it is 5/8 inch shorter on each side. I just got a set of 3/4 inch spacers for the rear and it looks just like the front. Really easy setup and you will be happy.

[neale_rs]

if the d44 from the waggy doesnt have a center mounted diff, how will i get it to bolt up on the rear end?

It is just slightly to the side, not enough to cause a problem.

[Bounty Hunter]

The Wagoneer equipped with Quadratrac has a rear diff that is as offset as the front diff.  Many Waggy's came without Quadratrac 4wd and have centered rear diffs.

If you go 8.8 in the rear you may be limiting a future front axle upgrade due to the smallish lug pattern.

[Bounty Hunter]

Isuzu & Honda d44's are not c-clip axles.  The mid 90's that I run are about 58", a tad narrower than stock axles. I run 1" wheel spacers.  I've read that late '90s Zu d44's are wider, like 61"-63", but I haven't verified it.

The nice thing about the Zu & Waggy combo is 4whl disc brakes & 6lug wheels are super common.  Great opportunity to upgrade the front axle at the same time.

[Jeffy]

If you go 8.8 in the rear you may be limiting a future front axle upgrade due to the smallish lug pattern.

They are also prone to spinning axle tubes.  I've also heard the bearing caps can loosen but I don't think I've ever heard of one actually doing it.  Ford as well as some aftermarket companies make a girdle to preload the diff bolts which helps prevent some of the carrier flex to the housing.  The 8.8" also uses C-clips.  Although most use the Explorer 8.8" which has disc brakes that help keep the axle in place so the axle shaft isn't walking out right away.

The other nice thing about the Isuzu axle is the gearing 4.56:1 is fairly common from what I've been told.  They also have that vented cast diff cover which is kinda neat as well.

Another axle I'd consider is the Toyota 8".  Pretty robust axle for it's size.  The removable third member is also a plus.  Disc brakes and a electric locker are available stock as well.  Same 6 on 5.5" bolt pattern as the SJ and Isuzu.

[Bounty Hunter]

The last 8.8 I used (MJ) I welded the tubes to the center chunk due to the history of spinning axle tubes.  Easily done with 55% nickel rods.

'Zu d44's are 4.30 or 4.10 gears.  Both are 'thick' gears that use a numerically lower carrier (2.72-3.73).  They also have one oddball size pinion bearing but it's commonly available, just doesn't come in master install kits.

[No Luck]

I can tell yoy from personal experience the ford 8.8 is the best route IMO. I had the same questions for these guys just two months ago they gave me the info and I ran with it.

Really than why were you just asking about this about three weeks ago.

[RatherBeJeeping]

I run a Tacoma rear axle in my Jeep.  60" wide, factory 4.56 gears, 5 on 4.5" pattern, and 30 spine shafts. Same clearance as the D35, and as strong as the D44.
I did my own disc brake swap with WJ calipers and Explorer rotors.
Just another option for you to consider.

[stan98tj]

quite honestly, one of the main issues i have (and this might not seem that big) is running a shorter (more narrow) axle. My rear wheels are tucked in kind of close and although i can fix this with a spacer i would rather not due to the well known dangers of running them. Of course this could be blown out of proportion, given that i dont know anyone who has ever lost a wheel due to spacer failure and im fairly certain i dont have any friends who know anyone who has had that misfortune. But i've read about it plenty online...
So the fear is if i go to an Isuzu 58" d44, i will need to run spacers because it will really tuck in the rear wheels.
Jeffy mentions breaking the 8.8....is my 4banger really putting down enough power to break it?

what if i ask this: If given the option between an isuzu d44,wagoneer d44 or a ford 8.8 what are you guys opting for?

[neale_rs]

Limiting the choices to only those you mention:

1) If you only want change only the rear axle, go with the 8.8

2) If you change both, get the Waggy front D44 and the Isuzu rear D44 (this would be a better choice long term)