Topic: body lift question, going from 3.25 to 4.25

[stan98tj]

I have 3.25" lift and i'd like to do a 1" body lift to get a little bit more clearance over the tires. I would actually settle for a .75" spacer but i looked and couldn't find any.
What modifications will i need to do to the jeep once i'm over 4"? Will the brake lines be affected? Does any of the drivetrain need to be adjusted? My t-case is already dropped from when i did the 2.5" lift. I'm unsure if body lifts affect drivetrain components, i wouldn't think they would. Lastly, what about the shifter mechanism?

[DodgeMudder]

Only drivetrain issue w/ a body lift will be the shift bracket for the t-case, from everything I have heard on a TJ you can either do a drop case or 1" BL w/o issue, but when doing both things get screwwy.

[sharpxmen]

if you install a body lift
- you don't need to get longer brake flex lines (they are bolted to the frame)
- you don't need longer driveshafts or transfer case drop or sye (you need only when you do a suspension lift), everything here is bolted to the frame so that height does not change
- for 1''  B/L you would only need to worry about your shifters (for a TJ you need a bracket that usually comes with a kit).

[stan98tj]

thanks for the replies guys.

[jagular7]

I have 3.25" lift and i'd like to do a 1" body lift to get a little bit more clearance over the tires. I would actually settle for a .75" spacer but i looked and couldn't find any.
What modifications will i need to do to the jeep once i'm over 4"? Will the brake lines be affected? Does any of the drivetrain need to be adjusted? My t-case is already dropped from when i did the 2.5" lift. I'm unsure if body lifts affect drivetrain components, i wouldn't think they would. Lastly, what about the shifter mechanism?

Yep body lift has no effect for the suspension. If you want a coil spacer, add another stock coil isolator. They are 3/4" tall. But really, if you need that much more clearance, look into trimming the inside of the flare. How the plastic wraps under and around the well opening is probably just that. Another thing to look at would be the shock length and the bump stops. Are the bump stops the correct length when collapsed, the tires are not in contact with the body and the shocks still have another 3/4"-1" of rod showing? This is for the static measurement of the bump stop. Dynamic the bump stop collapses more.

For the bl, the drop bracket for the bell crank for the shifter mechanism gets installed to the original setup. THe bell crank sits between the bracket off the trans and a bracket of the floor. I have a 1.25 bl and I couldn't use the bracket. So I went with a Skyjacket bracket that eliminates the body bracket all together. Since its been like 6 yrs now, the aftermarket has come out with other ways of 'shifting' the tcase into gear. Check into those.

What is real nice about having a small body lift, you can eliminate the tcase drop by adding a motor mount lift. With the tcase drop, you are lowering the back of the driveline to minimize the driveline vibe you get with lifting a Jeep and the rear stock ds. With keeping the tcase in its original location, you lift the front of the driveline to get similar results in the angle of the driveline to minimize the vibes. Lower the back or lift the front? I went with a mml and still use the stock skid plate.

[stan98tj]

Thanks for the reply, Jagular. I appreciate the all the info you presented. I am already running a coil spacer-that is what the RC 3.25" lift is (2.5" kit with .75" coil spacer). I am def going to have to extend the bump stops because the tire is bitting up into the flare when flexing-usually under moderate flex. I think ill end up getting an inch body lift and extend my bump stops.