4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: huntingbuck101 on May 08, 2007, 07:30:45 PM
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I actually order gears last night off Ebay and they guy email me and asked me Rev CUT? standard short?
I have a 98 TJ. it's stock so it should be dana 30 front dana 35 rear right? I have no idea if it's Rev cut or standard short.
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You have a TJ so they need to be standard cut. Although TJ standard cut gears are not the same the the CJ standard cut gears. You need Standard cut gears with crush sleeves. Are you buying new gears?
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new 4.88 gears and both install kits for $380. shipped
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I think you should be ok then.
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hej buck i'll be around bemidji let me know how the swap goes i'm thinking about doing the same
Chad
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I know this is an old thread but I found it on the search. I want to install 4.88 gears in my YJ and don't know what to buy or where to even start. I was on another Jeep Forum and they said I can use the stock axles. So what should I look for/ask for when purchasing the new gears? Where is a good place other than Ebay to buy them? I did a seach for my model of Jeep and didn't find any on Ebay being sold. 1990 YJ Wrangler. Is there anything specific I need to look for?
I found these on craiglist but not sure which one i would need. I have to redo both front and back correct?
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/1537984505.html
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I know this is an old thread but I found it on the search. I want to install 4.88 gears in my YJ and don't know what to buy or where to even start. I was on another Jeep Forum and they said I can use the stock axles. So what should I look for/ask for when purchasing the new gears? Where is a good place other than Ebay to buy them? I did a seach for my model of Jeep and didn't find any on Ebay being sold. 1990 YJ Wrangler. Is there anything specific I need to look for?
I found these on craiglist but not sure which one i would need. I have to redo both front and back correct?
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/1537984505.html
Are you in sac? I'd go to West Coast Differentials or Rubicon Express in Rancho Cordova. They should be able to set you up with 4.88's.
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Carson City, NV but sac only about a 3 hour drive for me.
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Carson City, NV but sac only about a 3 hour drive for me.
Do you have a local installer? I'm sure there are places in NV to do gears. Although I dove up to RC, (3 hours away) but you'll be paying CA Sales tax which is 8.25%-9.75%.
You'll either have to go with Superior, Yukon or Alloy USA. I think they're the only ones who makes 4.88:1's. You will need a high-pinion gear set for the Dana 30 up front and a standard set for the Dana 35C. You will also need two Master install kits. Make sure they come with new carrier bearings, some install kits don't come with them. I'd also make sure they're Timken bearings.
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I know this is an old thread but I found it on the search. I want to install 4.88 gears in my YJ and don't know what to buy or where to even start. I was on another Jeep Forum and they said I can use the stock axles. So what should I look for/ask for when purchasing the new gears? Where is a good place other than Ebay to buy them? I did a seach for my model of Jeep and didn't find any on Ebay being sold. 1990 YJ Wrangler. Is there anything specific I need to look for?
I found these on craiglist but not sure which one i would need. I have to redo both front and back correct?
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/1537984505.html
don't go for genuine gear
go for the ones jeffy mentioned, motive gear is also nice.
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I was told to get 4.88's because I will notice alot more power and faster speeds uphills, etc... I look at http://www.wrangleryj.com/gear-ratio-guide and they say havin'g 31" tires is bad for that. Should I really upgrade to 35" tires or will the 31" be ok? I don't want factory that is why I am upgrading.
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would 3.73 be better for 31" tires? I do want to 4x4 but mostly trails like I said no heavy crawling, etc... Want to be able to drive up a hill faster than 50mph in 3rd gear.
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would 3.73 be better for 31" tires? I do want to 4x4 but mostly trails like I said no heavy crawling, etc... Want to be able to drive up a hill faster than 50mph in 3rd gear.
i think 4.56 and 31 would be stock like, but you should be fine with 4.88 (i would go for that). I know that 4.88 and 33s gives you the same as stock.
3.73 is too much even for stock tires, even with 4.10 is not quite right so you should at least go with 4.56 (and like i said 4.88 imo).
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would 3.73 be better for 31" tires? I do want to 4x4 but mostly trails like I said no heavy crawling, etc... Want to be able to drive up a hill faster than 50mph in 3rd gear.
If your Jeep has a stick shift tranny it came with 4.10's. The auto's came with 3.73.
Another vote for 4.88's. It might be a bit on the lower side but you don't want to go to a larger tire down the road then say :fish: I shoulda gone with 4.88's.
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new 4.88 gears and both install kits for $380. shipped
where did you get a price like that..I am very intereasted
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I was told to get 4.88's because I will notice alot more power and faster speeds uphills, etc... I look at http://www.wrangleryj.com/gear-ratio-guide and they say havin'g 31" tires is bad for that. Should I really upgrade to 35" tires or will the 31" be ok? I don't want factory that is why I am upgrading.
Before we start, you should give up some idea of what we/you are starting with. Year, Model, Transmission, tire size...
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don't go for genuine gear
go for the ones jeffy mentioned, motive gear is also nice.
Just out of curiosity, why not G2? I'm just asking because, IIRC, that's what I got in mine (I know the axles are G2; dont remember if the gears were as well).
I was told to get 4.88's because I will notice alot more power and faster speeds uphills, etc... I look at http://www.wrangleryj.com/gear-ratio-guide and they say havin'g 31" tires is bad for that. Should I really upgrade to 35" tires or will the 31" be ok? I don't want factory that is why I am upgrading.
I used 31's and 4.88 and it was GREAT! I could cruise in 5th without having to downshift on overpasses and slight upgrades. The RPM's will be on the high side, but the 4 banger can handle high RPM's without much issues. Also, you will be cruising at around 3~3.5K, which means you will be well into the powerband of your engine...
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Just out of curiosity, why not G2? I'm just asking because, IIRC, that's what I got in mine (I know the axles are G2; dont remember if the gears were as well).
they repackage items manufactured by others. set of axles i purchased were out of specs, one was thicker and one was smaller, had them returned and they (4wd.com) send me Alloy USA for the trouble at no extra cost - these are right on the money. Did some research and turns out G2 buys their parts and package them in G2 boxes - i had my gears ordered as G2 from 4wd, and after the experience with the axles I called them and asked to cancel and order Motive Gear instead. As a matter of fact i wanted to order Motive to begin with but the sales person on the phone talked me into the G2 - not sure if there is any affiliation between G2 and 4wd but it might. But that's just my experience, you seem to have had a different one so i guess depends on the batch (mine was a bad one).
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they repackage items manufactured by others. set of axles i purchased were out of specs, one was thicker and one was smaller, had them returned and they (4wd.com) send me Alloy USA for the trouble at no extra cost - these are right on the money. Did some research and turns out G2 buys their parts and package them in G2 boxes - i had my gears ordered as G2 from 4wd, and after the experience with the axles I called them and asked to cancel and order Motive Gear instead. As a matter of fact i wanted to order Motive to begin with but the sales person on the phone talked me into the G2 - not sure if there is any affiliation between G2 and 4wd but it might. But that's just my experience, you seem to have had a different one so i guess depends on the batch (mine was a bad one).
The reason I asked is because my rear gear DID in fact fail (there was a whine/houl coming from it, and they had to replace it at no charge to me). In any case, apart from that issue, I have had no more trouble from my gears/axles shafts.
I think there IS an afiliation between G2 and 4WD/4WheelParts, as they are the only ones that sell them.
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The reason I asked is because my rear gear DID in fact fail (there was a whine/houl coming from it, and they had to replace it at no charge to me). In any case, apart from that issue, I have had no more trouble from my gears/axles shafts.
I think there IS an afiliation between G2 and 4WD/4WheelParts, as they are the only ones that sell them.
so probably like in my case your first set was a bad one, and the second came out of a good batch. I know for sure Motive has their own factory, i did speak with a G2 tech rep at the time i had the issue with the axles and he admitted that they only repackage parts and not manufacture or have a dedicated manufacturer.
to explain how i even thought of measuring the axles: one of them was not sliding into the spider gear in the diff - i measured it and it was too big in diameter at the splines, then i put the other one in the diff and was quite loose - measure them both and they were way out of specs (can't remember exactly how much but i know it was quite a bit as the tech kept asking me if i measured them correctly and to do it again - turned out the same every time). so that's the story + finding out that all their parts are rebranded bulk bought items i decided to stay away from G2.
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thats why I love this board...good info..Thanks
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Before we start, you should give up some idea of what we/you are starting with. Year, Model, Transmission, tire size...
Sorry about that. Should have stated this at the start. I have a 1990 YJ 5speed manual 4cyl. I have 31" tires on it right now. No high end mod's yet. Looking at doing a engine swap if the gears don't cut it. I hate having to shift to 3rd gear and go up hills (at) 50miles and hour. Feel like an ass getting passed by 80 year old's. I mainly use it for my daily driver but would like to do trails if my vehicle can handle it. Want to put a 2.5" lift on it and electric fan along with the gears and maybe 33's some day (if the lift is big enough). Just not sure what i need to get gear wise to give to my mechanic. I would rather buy the parts myself since they have such a huge profit margin on the parts if they get them.
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My best advice, do the 4.88 on 31's. 33's will not fit with 2.5" of lift unless you do some cutting (TJ flares, for example), but if you do light wheeling, 31's should be more than adecuate (especially if you go to an MT). With 31's and 4.88, you will be able to drive against the wind and slightly uphill in 5th. Plus, by keeping the lift low (2.5") and the tires at 31", you will not have to alter the rest of the driveline (CV Shaft, adjusting rear pinion angle, etc.) and you will put less stress on the driveline, which means you can keep the D35 on the rear without fear (unless you have a very heavy right foot!).
I put my 4.88's in when I still had 31's, and now that I run 33's, I miss the low (numerically high) gearing. I would put the Jeep in 5th, activate the cruise control (I have an after market one that worked at that time, but has since stopped working!) and just drive... I wish I could go to 5.13 with 33's, to be where I was at with 4.88 and 31's, but that would mean 2 new axles for me, so it's not happening.
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The reason I asked is because my rear gear DID in fact fail (there was a whine/houl coming from it, and they had to replace it at no charge to me). In any case, apart from that issue, I have had no more trouble from my gears/axles shafts.
I think there IS an afiliation between G2 and 4WD/4WheelParts, as they are the only ones that sell them.
The G2 line is 4WP/4WDH's line.
Genuine gear = Genuwhine gear. Lots of complaints on that brand.
There are only a few companies that make R&P sets. They have their own brand and private label their products for other companies. Or build other companies stuff to their specks.
Personally I think you get what you pay for in gears. There is NO free lunch! I'd stay with the major brands...Richmond,Precision,Dana,Ford,U.S.Gear,Superior, ETC.
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Well, as I said, I did have a problem, but once fixed, I have not had any more issues with mine. Since it was taken care of properly by 4WheelParts, I have no complains with my G2 rings/Pinions/axles as of today. Mind you, I have only about 10~15K miles since I had the axles done, so there may be issues down the line, but so far, there are none.
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Precision Gear as well as Alloy USA are now owned by Omix Ada.
For 31's, I would go with 4.88's. It doesn't really make sense to go with anything less unless you have an Automatic. 4.88's will allow you to go up to 33's if you want to as well. It will be downright peppy with 31's though.
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Precision Gear as well as Alloy USA are now owned by Omix Ada.
For 31's, I would go with 4.88's. It doesn't really make sense to go with anything less unless you have an Automatic. 4.88's will allow you to go up to 33's if you want to as well. It will be downright peppy with 31's though.
Last question for you guys, guess it is a 2/3 part.
What the hell do I order? I am going to go with the 4.88 gears (you guys all talked me into it), but is there a kit or do I just buy the gear, or are there all these extra parts I need to know about? Lastly. Electric fan I hear is a good mod. Anyone have a link (as well as a link to what I need for gears) so i can just click it, order and make a time to have it installed :D
If so thanks and :clap:
*edit's (What is a good brand of snorkel and are they easy to install? I like the looks of them and if I can get these gears I want to play in the mud and water ponds out here).
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Last question for you guys, guess it is a 2/3 part.
What the hell do I order? I am going to go with the 4.88 gears (you guys all talked me into it), but is there a kit or do I just buy the gear, or are there all these extra parts I need to know about? Lastly. Electric fan I hear is a good mod. Anyone have a link (as well as a link to what I need for gears) so i can just click it, order and make a time to have it installed :D
If so thanks and :clap:
*edit's (What is a good brand of snorkel and are they easy to install? I like the looks of them and if I can get these gears I want to play in the mud and water ponds out here).
You want two sets of 4.88:1 gears and two Master Install kits. Like I said before, just make sure the Master Install kits come with carrier bearings or else you'll need to buy 4 of them. You'll also need to find someone to install the gears. Local mechanic should be able to do them but I'd consider a speed shop who does them regularly. They can usually do them fast as well as cost less.
As for your snorkel questions, there is only one commercial snorkel and that's the ARB/Safari. Drill a large hole then pop-rivet a plate to the box...
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You guys have been a lot of help, thank you I appreciate it.
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Bammerman,
My advice, find somebody to do this for you; dont try it yourself. Changing rings and pinions requires some knowledge and use of special tools, which, based on your questions, I am assuming you dont have. Now, since I assume you will have this done, sometimes it is cheaper to get the parts from the shop doing the work. If you have a person (as in not a shop) or in some shops, they let you bring the parts without charging you extra for installing parts not bought at the store, then buy the parts Jeffy mentioned, but not all shops install parts that you have not bought from them... Just a heads up.
Regarding the fan, it is a good mod, and this one is very easy to do yourself. Basically, go to the nearest junkyard, locate a Ford Taurus from the mid 90's with a V6, and pull the fan and shroud. Should be less than $30 (mine was $28). Make sure it is the fan with the 3 wires, and grab the connectors as well... You will also need to get a switch, and a relay or controller (or both, depending on what you want to run). You will also need some wire (I used the same gage as the ones in the fan; dont remember what it was, though).
In the fan, there are 3 wires; a ground, a positive for the high speed, and a negative for the low speed. The way I hooked up mine (there are many ways to do this!), is that I used a 3 position switch. The middle position turns the fan OFF. The top position goes to a relay, which turns the fan on at low speed (more than enough to cool down the 4 banger!), and the bottom position goes to the Delta Current Control box, which means the box automatically controls the fan through the high speed wire. Basically, the hotter the temp at the return side of the radiator, the faster the fan will turn automatically. The relay was something like $40, the fan was $28, the swithc was something like $20 (it's a lighted, labeled switch which I use for all my applications so all the switches are the same - OBA, Front Locker, Rear Locker, Fog Lights, Hi Beam lights, and fan), about $5 in wires, some water proof connectors, and an extra fuse box (I dont like a ton of wires coming out of my battery, but you can do without this), and about $120 for the DCControl box.
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Precision Gear as well as Alloy USA are now owned by Omix Ada.
I didn't know this. I am glad I got my gears and shafts BEFORE they sold.
If I need gears I'm gonna go with Richmond. Shafts either the new Birfield style or 10 Factory. I like Ron a lot. I talked with him a lot on the phone right after he started A USA.
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Bammerman,
My advice, find somebody to do this for you; dont try it yourself. Changing rings and pinions requires some knowledge and use of special tools, which, based on your questions, I am assuming you dont have. Now, since I assume you will have this done, sometimes it is cheaper to get the parts from the shop doing the work. If you have a person (as in not a shop) or in some shops, they let you bring the parts without charging you extra for installing parts not bought at the store, then buy the parts Jeffy mentioned, but not all shops install parts that you have not bought from them... Just a heads up.
I am trying to do a barter. I am a webmaster and will to do free work for trade. i have one guy who might be willing his rates are $60.00 and hour where mine are 125 so I am not sure who is getting the better deal :puzzled:
On the fan thing does anyone have or wrote up a manual on how to do this with pictures? I am a computer guy so when it comes to parts and mechanic stuff it all looks foreign to me.
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I am trying to do a barter. I am a webmaster and will to do free work for trade. i have one guy who might be willing his rates are $60.00 and hour where mine are 125 so I am not sure who is getting the better deal :puzzled:
On the fan thing does anyone have or wrote up a manual on how to do this with pictures? I am a computer guy so when it comes to parts and mechanic stuff it all looks foreign to me.
The controller part of it you can get from DCControl's (http://www.dccontrol.com/) website. Take a look at their installation sheet (http://www.dccontrol.com/fk50p.htm) for details on the controller.
As for the install, youst google it; there are TONS of articles out there. Trust me here, this is not rocket science, and as long as you have the most basic hand tools and some common sense, you should be able to install it no problem. Just doing a quick search, I found this (http://www.jeepz.com/forum/cj-yj-tj-jk/16497-yj-electric-fan-install-tutorial-pics.html) article, and although not a Ford fan, it's similar to install (I have not read the article, so I dont know if it is good or not!).
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Well now, talked with a rep at a 4x4 customization shop today and this is my exact conversation.
Me: hi i live in the mountains and can't go up hills faster than 50miles per hour in 3rd gear with my 4cyl. I would like to be able to do it at 65mph at least, i do go play in the mud but don't do any climbing. I was told going to a 4.88 gear ratio in my 90 YJ would fix this problem. (he stops me right there)
him: you do not need to re-gear just get an auto locker for the rear for around 4-5 hundred, this will accomplish what you want and save you time and money.
Me: Are you sure about that because everyone I have spoken with and infomation I have looked up pointed to re-gearing to 4.88.
Him: unless you want to throw in a v8 for a ton of money go with the auto locker in the rear and maybe redo your throttle body.
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This is an option that was never given to me, I do not know what a locker even does (did look it up though), and if he is right.
* you guys have been more help than the other forums I have been on, thanks
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Well now, talked with a rep at a 4x4 customization shop today and this is my exact conversation.
Me: hi i live in the mountains and can't go up hills faster than 50miles per hour in 3rd gear with my 4cyl. I would like to be able to do it at 65mph at least, i do go play in the mud but don't do any climbing. I was told going to a 4.88 gear ratio in my 90 YJ would fix this problem. (he stops me right there)
him: you do not need to re-gear just get an auto locker for the rear for around 4-5 hundred, this will accomplish what you want and save you time and money.
Me: Are you sure about that because everyone I have spoken with and infomation I have looked up pointed to re-gearing to 4.88.
Him: unless you want to throw in a v8 for a ton of money go with the auto locker in the rear and maybe redo your throttle body.
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This is an option that was never given to me, I do not know what a locker even does (did look it up though), and if he is right.
* you guys have been more help than the other forums I have been on, thanks
Don't spend a dime with this guy! A locker gives your better traction that is all. And on a 90 there is no throttle body upgrade. Regearing is what you need. If you want to add a locker than do it while you are having it regeared. It would save on labor.
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Well now, talked with a rep at a 4x4 customization shop today and this is my exact conversation.
Me: hi i live in the mountains and can't go up hills faster than 50miles per hour in 3rd gear with my 4cyl. I would like to be able to do it at 65mph at least, i do go play in the mud but don't do any climbing. I was told going to a 4.88 gear ratio in my 90 YJ would fix this problem. (he stops me right there)
him: you do not need to re-gear just get an auto locker for the rear for around 4-5 hundred, this will accomplish what you want and save you time and money.
Me: Are you sure about that because everyone I have spoken with and infomation I have looked up pointed to re-gearing to 4.88.
Him: unless you want to throw in a v8 for a ton of money go with the auto locker in the rear and maybe redo your throttle body.
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This is an option that was never given to me, I do not know what a locker even does (did look it up though), and if he is right.
* you guys have been more help than the other forums I have been on, thanks
:roflol: - your question and his answer are absolutely unrelated. As a matter of fact an autolocker will "eat" some power compared to an open diff (just a little, but still) so the result will actually be the opposite.
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Glad you guys started this site, I thought it seemed odd.
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Don't go to a 4x4 shop! Find a speed shop which works on race cars like oval or dirt track. They do gears all the time and know what they're doing.
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Took your advice and went to a off road racing shop
verdict.
8.8 axels in rear with 4.88 gears (2k but bearings, etc... full replaced)
snorkel with electric fan on a toggle to shutoff
stick with current 2.5 lift but put 33's and they will get me some custom tube fenders
New springs to get the flex.
4.0 throttle body to replace my current one
add an exhaust and air filter...
3-4k total for all mods
sound like it can make some ponies instead of the squirrels?
might even get labor reduced to redo their website :)
http://www.shaffersoffroad.com/site/
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Took your advice and went to a off road racing shop
verdict.
8.8 axels in rear with 4.88 gears (2k but bearings, etc... full replaced)
snorkel with electric fan on a toggle to shutoff
stick with current 2.5 lift but put 33's and they will get me some custom tube fenders
New springs to get the flex.
4.0 throttle body to replace my current one
add an exhaust and air filter...
3-4k total for all mods
sound like it can make some ponies instead of the squirrels?
might even get labor reduced to redo their website :)
http://www.shaffersoffroad.com/site/
It would be worth going with the 8.8 VS spending money on that D35. Good choice!
With a 90 you can't do the 4.0 TB swap. You have 3 holes on the intake manifold where the 4.0 has 4 holes.
Remember you need to regear the front to match the rear.
Shaffers has a good image from what I hear.
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For that much coin I might consider going with two D44's and foregoing some of the other things.
Shaffers does have a good reputation.
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snorkel with electric fan on a toggle to shutoff
what's a snorkel with electric fan? or you meant electric fan for the rad and a snorkel for intake (so the 2 are unrelated) - just making sure you're not getting one of those electric superchargers
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Based on the IM's, I think he means a snorkel and a FoMoCo or similar fan for the radiator...
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where did you get a price like that..I am very intereasted
Note the date. It is 3 yrs old and the discussion stopped.
I wouldn't choose ebay for purchasing gear sets unless it is a mfr. Look at 4wd.com, 4wheelparts.com, vendors section under pirate4x4's bb, pull a magazine off the rack and look over the ads, look at your local truck parts supplier (not auto parts store - truck!), check your local 4wd clubs. There are lots of places to review for parts availability and warranty. For gears, you also best look for install capabilities and warranty on that as well.
Do note: be concerned with the ease of breaking axle shafts from insuperior designed stock differentials, gear ratio dividers within specific diffs which may require a case change, locker choices, upgrade shafts, brakes, etc. Since you will have the diff open, look into adding lockers (lots of levels to choose). If case swap is required, a case locker is an option.
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where did you get a price like that..I am very intereasted
this is what i did: i found a store on eBay that sold Motive Gear 4.88s for front and rear for something like $135 and $145 - i made sure they have an online store not on eBay - then i called 4wd.com and asked them to do price matching on them (whatever you ask them to price match needs to have a website they can verify the price from, they will not do eBay). You can wait for a deal time when they have free shipping, if they say they won't do both (free shipping and price match) then order them and after they ship it call them and ask for a price match, worked for me couple of times - they will refund the difference on your credit card. An install kit is about $50 i believe so that would get you to about the $380 in total (i think even cheaper if you go with separate seal/gasket, shim and bearing kits as i found that the install kit is more expensive than buying these separate - Rock Auto has good prices on bearings, G2 are good on seal/gasket & marking compound kits, shims are spicer i think in all the sets or omix-ada which is the parent company i believe)
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Shaffers does have a good reputation.
That's good, there shop is about 5miles from me, which is convenient.
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They are a rock crawling family. They were heavy into competition rock crawling.
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3-4k total for all mods
For that much coin I might consider going with two D44's and foregoing some of the other things.
$3000-$4000 for those mods?
Dude, for THAT kind of coin, if I were you I'd sell the 2.5L Wrangler and buy a 4.0L Wrangler. All of that just to get a little more speed on hills is definitely overkill.
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Well it is parts and labor. Plus it is for looks too (lift, bigger tires, the wheel extenders) Plus I have rhino lined it and taken care of most of the engine problems seems to be a waste to sell it now.
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Plus I have rhino lined it and taken care of most of the engine problems seems to be a waste to sell it now.
Since you've already put some wrench-time into it, you could probably get more than what you paid for it... should definitely be enough to get a YJ with a good 4.0L already in it. And then you can spend the money on your more powerful 4.0L that you would have spent on your 2.5L.
Don't get me wrong, I have nothing against the 2.5L, it's a strong engine. But if my YJ wasn't a Rio Grande edition, I'd probably swap it for the first 4.0L YJ in good condition that came along. It's just a thought, that's all.
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Since you've already put some wrench-time into it, you could probably get more than what you paid for it... should definitely be enough to get a YJ with a good 4.0L already in it. And then you can spend the money on your more powerful 4.0L that you would have spent on your 2.5L.
Don't get me wrong, I have nothing against the 2.5L, it's a strong engine. But if my YJ wasn't a Rio Grande edition, I'd probably swap it for the first 4.0L YJ in good condition that came along. It's just a thought, that's all.
what are the extras in the rio grande (i figured that "grande" is in regards to displacement :)
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/begin threadjack
what are the extras in the rio grande (i figured that "grande" is in regards to displacement :)
From Wikipedia:
The Rio Grande Edition (Available in champagne gold, moss green and white, with a Pueblo themed interior trim package, this trim was only available in 1995 and was added to spice up the base model Wrangler 'S' hence this trim was only available with the 4-cylinder models)
This is what I learned from talking to some people at Chrysler after I bought the Jeep; For starters, you got Spicer 297x U-joints. Supposedly, the Rio Grande was the first and last time a factory YJ ever had them. The body and frame are galvanized, which helps prevent the onset of rust, but I think all '95 YJs were galvanized. In addition, the Rio Grande could be customized with every factory option that could be bolted onto the 2.5L at the time, so the vast majority of them had a hard top, A/C, and the automatic trans (but not mine :D ) All of the rear windows were tinted black from the factory, including the soft windows if you opted for the soft top. You also got a slightly two-tone Black & Tan (Spice)-colored interior with a special design on the seats, as well as a black spare cover to offset the spice top, as can all be seen on mine here:
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd275/darkusedius/Jeep/General%20pics/Jeep016-1.jpg)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd275/darkusedius/Jeep/General%20pics/Jeep017-1.jpg)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd275/darkusedius/Jeep/Out%20of%20Body%20Shop/DSCN2062-2.jpg)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd275/darkusedius/Jeep/Out%20of%20Body%20Shop/DSCN2064-1.jpg)
And finally, a Rio Grande badge on the rear quarter panels, as seen here:
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd275/darkusedius/Jeep/General%20pics/Jeep014-1.jpg)
But that stuff isn't the best part. The real reason I'm so happy I ended up with a Rio Grande in awesome condition... Jeep only offered the Rio Grande trim package in 1995. Out of that, only 4200 were ever produced, making it one of the rarest mass-production trim packages in history. It's really not any better than any other '95 YJ, just way harder to find one in decent condition. I like the fact that many people, lots of them Jeepers, ask me what the Rio Grande package is all about because they've never seen one before.
/end threadjack
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your's is in a very good condition indeed. Mine is also galvanized, but i don't think the frame is (pretty sure it isn't) and i'm wondering if my frame was ever replaced or that was one of the differences (RG vs regular YJ Sport)
i have the same center console - good choice :)
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i have the same center console - good choice :)
Bestop Trailmax FTW! :hump:
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Think I found a deal. I found a Ford 8.8 from a 94-95 mustang selling for 150.00. He has 3.55 gears in it I believe which I will put in the 4.88. But if he still has it I think I am going to get it.
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:'( Nope I guess it is a set of gear he is selling for a 8.8 not the rear end. damn misleading posts!
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With a 90 you can't do the 4.0 TB swap. You have 3 holes on the intake manifold where the 4.0 has 4 holes.
I was just going back through the thread to read up on the advice you all gave me and saw this! I must not have seen it before! What MOD can I do to the TB if I cannot do teh 4.0L TB conversion swap? I checked the search but really didn't come up with any answers.
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I was just going back through the thread to read up on the advice you all gave me and saw this! I must not have seen it before! What MOD can I do to the TB if I cannot do teh 4.0L TB conversion swap? I checked the search but really didn't come up with any answers.
i didn't see any write-ups on the tbi throttle body, but next time i'm at a junkyard i'll have a look at one to see if it can be bored out larger (i don't think it can but i'll have a look). You can try to find a larger one that will fit, but you're in research territory with that.
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i didn't see any write-ups on the tbi throttle body, but next time i'm at a junkyard i'll have a look at one to see if it can be bored out larger (i don't think it can but i'll have a look). You can try to find a larger one that will fit, but you're in research territory with that.
It wouldn't be that hard though. Look up the gasket for the TB. Then cross-reference that to what other vehicles use that same gasket. Then look up the specs for those TB's.
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Ive done some light investigation online (when im bored) to do that and have found nothing so far. if you got to an auto-parts website you can search the gasket by part number to find other applications, but after that its hard to find any info on the other vehicles. my only idea right now is that the tbi basically has 2 major parts the upper half that has the fuel injector fpr and whatnot. then there is the bottom half that just has the throttle plate like the mpi buys. so if that bottom half has a tapper to it i would thin you could get that bored out to match the top (if you look at the top half you will see why boring that part would be impractical if not impossible with the injector in there.) problem being i can't find any dimensions online and don't want to take mine apart. good luck with the search :thumb: (info for the jeep tbi is few and far between but every time i search i find something new)
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I doubt you'll find all your information at one site. Onve you know the additional applications, you'll have to search on those specific engines.
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Ive done some light investigation online (when im bored) to do that and have found nothing so far. if you got to an auto-parts website you can search the gasket by part number to find other applications, but after that its hard to find any info on the other vehicles. my only idea right now is that the tbi basically has 2 major parts the upper half that has the fuel injector fpr and whatnot. then there is the bottom half that just has the throttle plate like the mpi buys. so if that bottom half has a tapper to it i would thin you could get that bored out to match the top (if you look at the top half you will see why boring that part would be impractical if not impossible with the injector in there.) problem being i can't find any dimensions online and don't want to take mine apart. good luck with the search :thumb: (info for the jeep tbi is few and far between but every time i search i find something new)
i think easiest would be to find a larger tbi and transplant the Jeep injector over and adjust the fuel pressure to be the same as the Jeep one (if the FPR is on the t/b or use an external FPR if not). as far as the gasket being the same you can always cut a seat off 1/2'' aluminum plate and get it welded to the intake. next time you guys take your t/b off take some pics top and bottom with the butterfly open.