4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Jeffy on December 15, 2009, 02:23:15 PM
-
So anyway, after replacing the cowl seal I thought I was good. Light rain wasn't a problem. Well we had a downpour that lasted all might and into the next day. Went out to the Jeep and there is water on teh floor again. Not nearly as bad as before though. It wasn't pouring down my dash this time. It looks like it may be the cowl seam as it only seemed to be leaking on the driverside and against the side of the sheet metal. I had put some clear silicone down in the gap years ago but I think it needs to be redone with some polyurethane this time. Who was stupid enough to design the body so there is a seam at the cowl? They should get a sack of doorknobs. I'll try some duct tape and see if that stops it since it's supposed to rain again soon and the poly won't have time to cure in the cold...
-
For a while mine was leaking through the side seem. You might want to check that one too.
-
For a while mine was leaking through the side seem. You might want to check that one too.
Oh you mean the seam above the 'Jeep'? I'll have to check that but I think it's OK.
-
Yup, that one. I put a latex sealant in it. Good luck finding the leaks, they can be tricky.
-
I found the leak today. It's the damn cowl seal! So now I need to take the grill off and make sure the drain is clear. I don't really have the time to take the whole dash apart to put in a new seal.
-
I found the leak today. It's the damn cowl seal! So now I need to take the grill off and make sure the drain is clear. I don't really have the time to take the whole dash apart to put in a new seal.
At least you found it!
-
At least you found it!
Yeah, since I don't have as much carpet it was easy to spot dribbling down the firewall. Since I just replaced the Cowl seal, it had to be the HVAC cowl seal.
-
Ugh! I took the grill off and what did I find. Nothing... Well, that's not entirely true. The drain works fine. What I did discover is that there is a second vent! So when it rains really hard water floods the box and then makes it way into the cab through the driverside vent. What a stupid design! There is no catch can or drain after the flap. It just dumps onto the floor from there. So when I'm not driving, there is no pressure against the flap closing it. You can clearly see the gap it leaves. I'm not sure if there is a tension spring for it although I can see two cables controlling it. The one on the right goes to the lever while there is an unknown cable going to the right someplace. I'll have to check a FSM and see where that one goes... It all else fails I might have to buy a cowl scoop or maybe make a small duct for it.
As a quick fix I used some 3M molding tape to keep the flap closed at the bottom.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/Syqeam4PUWI/AAAAAAAAKj0/bz-3yJBWE5g/s400/20091217-DSC_0195-1.jpg)(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/SyqibS_H1qI/AAAAAAAAKkE/sNxaMTS1Ps0/s400/20091217-DSC_0201-7.jpg)(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/Syqea10PqAI/AAAAAAAAKj4/sK5_YWFflmU/s400/20091217-DSC_0197-3.jpg)
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/SyqebBE1XwI/AAAAAAAAKj8/rcvww9kgd1Y/s800/20091217-DSC_0204-10.jpg)
-
Mine used to leak through the threads of the screws that hold the vent gril on. Some latex sealant on the threads fixed that problem. The driver side vent on mine also stays a bit open but it hasn't caused any problems so far.
-
Mine used to leak through the threads of the screws that hold the vent gril on. Some latex sealant on the threads fixed that problem. The driver side vent on mine also stays a bit open but it hasn't caused any problems so far.
On the first clear day, I spend a good hour pouring water over the cowl. It definitely splashes inside when water starts to back up. It always happens after a big storm and not a small one. This also makes sense why the back of the gauges were drenched from the splattering. Although the cowl seal didn't help any as it was pretty crusty and needed replacing long ago.
**edit
I checked the FSM and it looks like the cable that's on the right goes to the vent door on the passenger side. The one on the left I guess takes a turn somewhere and goes back right, to the lever...
-
Thought of an idea on what to do. Make a plate that covers the opening some. The vent isn't really that useful since it's only 2.5x4" opening. Maybe reduce it to 1.75"...
-
I fought the fight then realized its prob a jeep thing and pulled drain plugs
-
I fought the fight then realized its prob a jeep thing and pulled drain plugs
I'd rather not have water running down the backside of my dash though. FYI: stock dashes aren't painted on the backside and rust easily. Also the gauges take a pretty big beating even though they still work. If you drive in water over the hood, I'd recommend sealing off the vent completely. I might eventually get a cowl scoop as well.
-
When I take the grill off my 94 there is a plastic "bucket" thing in there, it catches the water and funnels it to the drain. It got out of place once and I had water all over...
Dave
-
When I take the grill off my 94 there is a plastic "bucket" thing in there, it catches the water and funnels it to the drain. It got out of place once and I had water all over...
Dave
The 'bucket's is what I'm calling the trough. Mine drains fine. At least it seems to be from that small opening. Strange that the rubber down pipe is HUGE in comparison to the opening. When it rains really hard here and the Jeep is sitting, is when it leaks. I assed sn aluminum plate which covers the lower half of the opening to the driverside and used 3M molding tape to attach it. It's semi-perminant. If I made it taller the water would just drain into the passenger side. I saw the vacuum controlled airdam but it was in the up position. I'm not sure if it's stuck or just left in the up position since the last time I drove it.I usually leave the heater on if it was running the time before. Maybe I should make sure everything is off so the air dam closes.
-
Well, guess what? It still leaks! Although not as bad. Most of the water is coming in though the vent. There is a minor amount that is coming in from where the windshield frame, body and door all meet together as well. I have resorted to sealing off the cowl vent completely although that also means my heaters blower has to work harder since gets it's air from the vent. ??? I ended up playing an order from Qtech for the vent scoop so hopefully that will keep 80-90% of the water out and allow the drain to actually drain.
Did I mention, I hate getting into Jeep that feels like you've just stepped into a swamp? :thumbsup:
-
Well, guess what? It still leaks! Although not as bad. Most of the water is coming in though the vent. There is a minor amount that is coming in from where the windshield frame, body and door all meet together as well. I have resorted to sealing off the cowl vent completely although that also means my heaters blower has to work harder since gets it's air from the vent. ??? I ended up playing an order from Qtech for the vent scoop so hopefully that will keep 80-90% of the water out and allow the drain to actually drain.
Did I mention, I hate getting into Jeep that feels like you've just stepped into a swamp? :thumbsup:
mine has a nice puddle in front of the driver's seat - so you're saying if i cover the cowl vent that will go away (not leak anymore)?
-
mine has a nice puddle in front of the driver's seat - so you're saying if i cover the cowl vent that will go away (not leak anymore)?
If the cowl bowl is filling up then closing off the cowl vent should solve it. I think the cowl scoop will help keep most of the rain off. If you look at the picts you can see that there is very little stopping water from pouring into the Jeep. There only needs to be a little more then an inch of standing water before it starts flooding in. The flap on the driverside doesn't close all the way and I'm sure it was designed this way so that when you're driving the positive air pressure would keep it closed.
-
Hey Jeffy,
I have been having the same issue (wet drivers floor board :brick:) and couldnt figure out where its leaking if my life depended on it. Is there any way you can explain to me where this drain is located.
When I remove my cowl, I see a slit in the middle that looks like a drain. I assume so since it is the lowest point under the cowl and everything leans downwards towards it. Then when I open the hood, i notice a plastic tube attached right under it that looks like it should be a way for it to drain out of the car.
I did not see anything other than this. Can you please post a pic or something so that I know where this door is located that seems to be leaking for you guys.
Thank you thank you thank you :bow: :biggrin:
***I have a TJ is that makes a difference ???
-
If the cowl bowl is filling up then closing off the cowl vent should solve it. I think the cowl scoop will help keep most of the rain off. If you look at the picts you can see that there is very little stopping water from pouring into the Jeep. There only needs to be a little more then an inch of standing water before it starts flooding in. The flap on the driverside doesn't close all the way and I'm sure it was designed this way so that when you're driving the positive air pressure would keep it closed.
i see what you mean - i was thinking to make a piece of alu sheet and fit it over the heater intake but from what you are saying it will still leak once there's enough water in there - although i did look and there is none when raining, seems to be draining out (could be that is actually draining inside :) - since my Jeep is standing still at this time i'm just going to block the cowl vent and see if that solves it - if it does i'm going to buy a scoop like you suggested - this has annoyed me since like forever.
-
I need to get a new windshield gasket for mine, it's leaking like mad in this weather. It SUCKS! The other morning it poured a steady stream down the dash from my driveway to the stoplight a mile up the road from my house. Since then it hasn't leaked nearly as bad, but still leaks...
And my soft windows don't work that well when it comes to sealing with the hard top to stop leaks... And my back window leaks...
My Jeep sucks in wet weather
-
IŽll again suggest putting some sort of sealant on the screws that fasten the cowl vent. Mine kept leaking a bit until I did that and it can be pretty hard to tell if it is the screws of the vent since it can leak into the same general area.
-
Someone please help with some pics :'(
-
Hey Jeffy,
I have been having the same issue (wet drivers floor board :brick:) and couldnt figure out where its leaking if my life depended on it. Is there any way you can explain to me where this drain is located.
***I have a TJ is that makes a difference ???
TJ's actually had a TBS on the leaking issue from the cowl. You'll have to go to the Dealer and see if it was done though. They can look it up. IIRC, they cut the length of the drain tube off. But since there is a TSB, you might as well see if it was done.
i see what you mean - i was thinking to make a piece of alu sheet and fit it over the heater intake but from what you are saying it will still leak once there's enough water in there - although i did look and there is none when raining, seems to be draining out (could be that is actually draining inside :) - since my Jeep is standing still at this time i'm just going to block the cowl vent and see if that solves it - if it does i'm going to buy a scoop like you suggested - this has annoyed me since like forever.
The way I was able to tell were the leak was coming from was by looking at the firewall. After a good rain there is usually still some drops on the firewall. I'm sure it's not draining out into the floor but more like constant splashing Even with the addition of the little wall, I still get water in there. I'm not sure if it's getting into the passenger side duct but there is a vacuum controlled flap on that side. The duct height on the passenger-side is about the same as the driver side but it's a lot longer and doesn't spill right onto the floor. Sealing off the vent will help you localize the leak at least.
I need to get a new windshield gasket for mine, it's leaking like mad in this weather. It SUCKS! The other morning it poured a steady stream down the dash from my driveway to the stoplight a mile up the road from my house. Since then it hasn't leaked nearly as bad, but still leaks...
And my soft windows don't work that well when it comes to sealing with the hard top to stop leaks... And my back window leaks...
My Jeep sucks in wet weather
I did mine a few months ago. It's a bit of a PITA since the new seal is a lot thicker then the squished old one so you'll have to re-adjust jsut about everything to get it to fit. This is more of a PITA if you have a hardtop. Also, I think I get a little seeping where teh wiper motor cable is passed under the seal. It's not much like the HVAC duct but I do see traces of water on the instrument panel.
IŽll again suggest putting some sort of sealant on the screws that fasten the cowl vent. Mine kept leaking a bit until I did that and it can be pretty hard to tell if it is the screws of the vent since it can leak into the same general area.
My leaking is distinct and you can see the leaking on the wiring and firewall. It's not the screws as there would be leaking down the HVAC duct and onto the transmission hump. I'm getting water dripping above the throttle and there is moisture on the tab under the duct flap since that's the lowest place for water to travel.
-
i see what you mean - i was thinking to make a piece of alu sheet and fit it over the heater intake but from what you are saying it will still leak once there's enough water in there - although i did look and there is none when raining, seems to be draining out (could be that is actually draining inside :) - since my Jeep is standing still at this time i'm just going to block the cowl vent and see if that solves it - if it does i'm going to buy a scoop like you suggested - this has annoyed me since like forever.
can't put a scoop on the vent since the stupid windshield washer nozzles are right in front of it (YJ) :rant:
-
No kidding...
And the dealer would cover this even though the Jeep is 13 years old???
If so how do i go about doing this? Do i need some proof of this recall or do i just walk in and ask them to do it?
I've never dealt with the dealer as they are all a bunch of ignorant arrogant a**holes here by me. They dont want to do ANYTHING unless you are paying the big bucks.
-
can't put a scoop on the vent since the stupid windshield washer nozzles are right in front of it (YJ) :rant:
Hmm, the scoop I bought is supposed to be low enough.
-
No kidding...
And the dealer would cover this even though the Jeep is 13 years old???
If so how do i go about doing this? Do i need some proof of this recall or do i just walk in and ask them to do it?
I've never dealt with the dealer as they are all a bunch of ignorant arrogant a**holes here by me. They dont want to do ANYTHING unless you are paying the big bucks.
If you want to do it yourself then take the cowl off and take a look for yourself. If the cowl cover isn't on tightly it may leak at the corners which can cause water to leak into the vent. You can see the drain in the picture, it's the small white tube in the channel.
(http://www.classictiger.com/wrangler/Cowl-Leak/WaterUnderTheCowlA.jpg) Otherwise, take to to the dealer and ask them if they can look up your VIN and see if the TSB was done.
-
I dont have that white little tube...i thought the drain was that slit in the middle
So what is that slit on the bottom? The one in between where the white little tube is sticking out and the wiper motor?
-
I dont have that white little tube...i thought the drain was that slit in the middle
So what is that slit on the bottom? The one in between where the white little tube is sticking out and the wiper motor?
Ok, now that I've looked at the TJ some more, the black thing is probably the drain. (TJ cowl is very different then YJ's).
(http://www.classictiger.com/wrangler/Cowl-Leak/WaterAroundCowlDrainA.jpg)
-
This leaking business is a strange thing mine leaked like a siff in front when new, Then I took the factory top off and ran a half top no more leaks. Installed a roll cage and after 2 years put the factory top back on and now with all the rain here not a drop inside go figure. I originally thought it leaked from the heater I guess I was wrong.
-
Damn thing STILL leaks! ...even after I taped up the cowl. So it's leaking from somewhere else and it's just spraying everything else. I think I'm just going to take the whole dash out, sans instrument panel and gauges, and then I'll be able to see where it's leaking from. There is a lot of water so it's not coming from any screws. It looks like there might be a leak at the cowl seal or maybe the windshield frame. What a PITA. I've got to pop the hard top off to get the dash pad out of the way.
Although once I do get it sealed up it's gonna be SEALED up. :lol: It will also give me a chance to see how I'm going to get the defroster working if I do a CJ style dash. :thumbsup:
-
My leak was from the super top retainer channel at the top of the windshield.
The bar is extruded aluminum, but the finish off the ends with plastic caps to get the curve in there...they are rivited to the aluminum. One of the rivits broke causing a slight gap between the plastic cap and the aluminum.
I didn't fix that really...I just adjusted the clamps for the bar so it would pull down tighter and straighter on the top of the windshield....closed the gap enough for now.
Actually buying a new bar today...less than $30 and I have a $50 gift certificate to 4WD.
On the TJ, you may want to run a bead of sealant around the vent cap under the cowl...looking at the front of the Jeep, it is on the way left side of the cowl area. If that seal is okay, nothing short of a flood coming over the hood would let water up high enough to get in there...unless the drain hole is plugged really bad.
-
My windshield was leaking at the top where the soft top channel screwed in.
Rain was pouring into those holes because I run a hardtop now. I plugged the holes with some screws and LOTS of silicone. Oddly enough, it hasn't rained in a few days (PAC NW) so I haven't been able to test it.
I've been chasing leaks since I bought my YJ 2.5 years ago.
-
I noticed water coming out from behind the torx screws that bolt the windshield to the dash. I think I'll silicone them and see if it helps. not that it will get rid of my ridiculous leak or anything, but at least it will fix 5% of the leak :pirate:
Oh and I was just thinking- What exactly would make it leak towards the drivers side in particular? With the wiper motor being behind the dash is it just easier for water to travel down through the drivers side?
-
IŽll again suggest putting some sort of sealant on the screws that fasten the cowl vent. Mine kept leaking a bit until I did that and it can be pretty hard to tell if it is the screws of the vent since it can leak into the same general area.
I think I found one of the multiple leaks I have and it looks like it is around the screws. I can feel moisture on top of the box when I reach up under the dash. It's dripping really close to the vent door BUT it's slightly behind it, against the firewall. It also might be leaking at the seam but there is no way it could be leaking as the box would have to actually fill up and at that point water would rush through the vent door. So I added some silicone to the screw holes and you can smell the sealant inside the cabin so that would suggest that it's inside. I doubt the smell is strong enough to get sucked in through the heater.
The other leak seems to be from the doors. It's right where the door meets the cowl seal. There is an angle where the seal on the window part of teh door bends and then goes straight down. It looks like the seal isn't as puffy there and it's letting the water come around the cowl seal then it flows into the instrument panel where it drains into the floor. I did notice moisture on the passenger side and I know water wasn't getting over there from the cowl vent as there were no markings on the firewall.
So the next step is to get some RTV silicone or maybe some weatherstripping and add it to the back of the windshield frame.
-
I noticed water coming out from behind the torx screws that bolt the windshield to the dash. I think I'll silicone them and see if it helps. not that it will get rid of my ridiculous leak or anything, but at least it will fix 5% of the leak :pirate:
Oh and I was just thinking- What exactly would make it leak towards the drivers side in particular? With the wiper motor being behind the dash is it just easier for water to travel down through the drivers side?
That won't happen with my Jeep since I replaced the instrument panel years ago. When I did that I sealed the panel to the body with silicone so water isn't able to get behind it anymore. I recommend doing this if you ever find yourself replacing your instrument panel. It's also good to check the panel under the windshield frame as they tend to rust out there.
-
Found yet another way water is getting in. If your YJ came with a softtop then you will have plastic gutters that are screwed through a lip on the windshield frame. When you put a hard top on you have to remove these. This leave 8 holes that pass through the gutter and will allow water to enter the windshield frame. So I used silicone to seal the holes. I also ran some truck cap tape on the inside of the area where the door seals against the windshield frame. I need to get some one sided adhesive weatherstripping to get a more permanent solution. It doesn't look like the cowl is leaking anymore.
-
Well at least the cowl isn't leaking anymore. Your making progress. :clap:
-
Well at least the cowl isn't leaking anymore. Your making progress. :clap:
I still keep losing screws to the dash someplace. At least most of the missing screws are non crucial parts that are hidden behind the plastic. Also figured out that my front hoops will have to come out if I want to replace the instrument panel. :brick:
-
Well, I sealed the doors with some 1/4" D weatherstripping I found at the hardware store for boats and autos. I think it will work as the area I need sealed is about that size. I also ran some RTV between the windshield frame and the cowl seal since I see some traces of water between there. It's been raining lightly so it's hard to tell if it still leaks or not. That's one of the problems. The storms we've been having here are ending.
Oh and because of all of the moisture my rear view mirror fell off. Had to fix that as well.
-
Glad to hear you are getting it solved.
How did the moisture affect the rear view mirror? Did it rust and thus expand and pry itself off?
-
Glad to hear you are getting it solved.
How did the moisture affect the rear view mirror? Did it rust and thus expand and pry itself off?
It fogged up the window something fierce and that loosened the glue to allow it to vibrate enough from the engine to break off. The whole tab came off the windsheild.
I was able to drive around with the weatherstripping lastnight and it definitely is more sealed. You can hear it when you close the door as well hear it as the noise from the engine is a bit less as well. I haven't been able to check and see if it's actually sealing the water out though.
-
Well, it hasn't been raining hard but it was raining constantly for a few days and the Jeep has been dry. I got the Cowl Scoop in and installed it. I made sure to reapply RTV to the screws again. Looks nice but I do wish they used recessed screws and not have the buttons just sticking up. Might have to change them out for Allen head screws and countersink the holes.
Since this is an ongoing struggle for us with older Jeeps. I think I'm going to do a write-up.
Next big storm is supposed to roll in tomorrow and then again on the weekend.
-
Round; I don't know what... It's still leaking some someplace I think. It doesn't seem to be from the doors or the cowl from what I can tell... It's not leaking a lot though. Maybe a few ounces.
-
Well, it's raining again and... it still leaks. I fixed the cowl vent leak, the cowl weatherstripping leak, the door leaks and now the cowl seam leaks again. I think I fixed it this time. At least I was able to see where the leak was coming from and didn't have to guess.
-
You think you fixed it?? :lol:
-
You think you fixed it?? :lol:
There are only a finite number of places for it to leak from so I'm getting there. I'll know tomorrow.
-
This is a Jeep..."finite" could just as easily be "one million"....I can't believe mine was as easy as the windshield header (especially after tearing into the cowl...twice..).
That stupid water found its way all the way down the windshield frame and would drip either from the underside of the dash or inside of the door....never could see it actually happening or where it was coming from....just dumb luck that I tracked mine down.
-
Like I said when I did my cage I moved the windshield back a hair has never leaked since. Before it would leak pretty bad with the factory top now same top no leaks.
I would have sworn it came from the heater but nope, the rubber under the windshield frame just needed to be pinched a hair more
-
Like I said when I did my cage I moved the windshield back a hair has never leaked since. Before it would leak pretty bad with the factory top now same top no leaks.
I would have sworn it came from the heater but nope, the rubber under the windshield frame just needed to be pinched a hair more
I thought I was up early...or are you up very late?? ???
-
I thought I was up early...or are you up very late?? ???
He works graveyard shift.
-
Like I said when I did my cage I moved the windshield back a hair has never leaked since. Before it would leak pretty bad with the factory top now same top no leaks.
I would have sworn it came from the heater but nope, the rubber under the windshield frame just needed to be pinched a hair more
Well, I can saw without a doubt it's not the windshield cowl gasket. It's leaking from a body seam (which the TJ doesn't have). I can pour water in at the top and catch it when it drips into the floor. I know I have several leaks is less water on the floors and there are less signs of water running down the firewall. This time there is no water on the firewall or the wiring under the dash. I've got to check it today and see if there is any water on the foor. If not then it's sealed up. Although I should probably redo the seal job with something that doesn't stay tacky like silicone.
-
Well, I can saw without a doubt it's not the windshield cowl gasket. It's leaking from a body seam (which the TJ doesn't have). I can pour water in at the top and catch it when it drips into the floor. I know I have several leaks is less water on the floors and there are less signs of water running down the firewall. This time there is no water on the firewall or the wiring under the dash. I've got to check it today and see if there is any water on the foor. If not then it's sealed up. Although I should probably redo the seal job with something that doesn't stay tacky like silicone.
i had the same problem at the body seam - used ureathane to seal it, had to remove the old sealant (whatever that was, something rubbery and if i remember correctly tan color) - it's tedious process, clean it all off and use a degreaser/solvent - i used masking tape about 1/16'' around the seam afterwards, filled with urethane, ran my finger over just like when you caulk the bathtub for example (had rubber gloves on) and removed the masking tape right away. next day i masked again another 1/16 from the edge of fthe urethane and then paint it with a spray can, you can hardly tell it was done.
-
The OEM sealant looks white or turned white. I didn't bother picking it out but I probably should have considered it although, it's still rainy season and I want to just stop it from leaking till I can address it better next time. The OEM sealant is not rubbery at all. It's hard and shrank in a few areas where it's leaking from. I was thinking about using epoxy to just filling the areas. I just used black RTV which I had on hand. It was that or clear Silicone. Need to pick up some grey urethane sealant when the rain stops. Problem with repainting it is that my paint is a one off ('92 only) so I have to special order it. I don't really care about how it looks right now though. I didn't bother to even mask it but the Jeep is no where near new and you don't notice it with the mismatched doors and other accessories. :lol:
Oh and it doesn't seem to be leaking anymore. It rained all last night and the floors were dry.
-
The OEM sealant looks white or turned white. I didn't bother picking it out but I probably should have considered it although, it's still rainy season and I want to just stop it from leaking till I can address it better next time. The OEM sealant is not rubbery at all. It's hard and shrank in a few areas where it's leaking from. I was thinking about using epoxy to just filling the areas. I just used black RTV which I had on hand. It was that or clear Silicone. Need to pick up some grey urethane sealant when the rain stops. Problem with repainting it is that my paint is a one off ('92 only) so I have to special order it. I don't really care about how it looks right now though. I didn't bother to even mask it but the Jeep is no where near new and you don't notice it with the mismatched doors and other accessories. :lol:
Oh and it doesn't seem to be leaking anymore. It rained all last night and the floors were dry.
the urethane i got was black - i think i still have the tube somewhere - it held up very good and i did it 4 years ago if not more. don't use epoxy, the body "works" there, it's not solid so it needs something somewhat flexible to "give" - this one i put on it's getting hard but you can still press it a little (if i put my nail in it, but it's very solid otherwise, something of the consistency of a floor rubber mat, way harder than the silicone), it's similar to the windshield one but it's specified to be for seams (guy at the store recommended this one when i wanted to get the windshield one).
-
Well the last time I used clear silicone it lasted over 10 years. So it was about due. Did you pick out the old stuff or just fill in where it separated? I only have two places where the sealant pulled away, maybe 1/2" or so. It would be a real PITA to pick out the whole seam and redo it.
-
Well the last time I used clear silicone it lasted over 10 years. So it was about due. Did you pick out the old stuff or just fill in where it separated? I only have two places where the sealant pulled away, maybe 1/2" or so. It would be a real PITA to pick out the whole seam and redo it.
i used a dremel and one of the deburring thin and pointed bits - went fairly fast. I used a thin screwdriver with a cloth and some solvent to clean it really well. after the last post i went and looked - there's about a 4'' portion right in the center where i left the old stuff as it was hard to reach and it was looking good (i was actually taking out good stuff) - well I just saw that it is cracked (at least the paint on top is and i know for sure it wasn't), so i'll have to do that portion as well, the urethane is nice and still has a bit of elasticity. i remembered one thing - it shrinks, so you can leave it a bit higher and once it dries will recess nicely, i didn't know and i did it like the silicone, it shrunk a bit and now there's a small radius under the level of the sheetmetal - no biggie but just keep that in mind, you can leave it a bit higher and just where it meets the metal have it levelled (just so there's no edge).
-
Watch out with RTV and body work, certain kinds give off acids that cause can cause rust when curing.
Dave
-
Watch out with RTV and body work, certain kinds give off acids that cause can cause rust when curing.
Dave
Clear Silicone uses citric acid when it dries but this vaporizes as it cures.
-
Some flavors, cure by reacting with the humidity in the air, and the byproduct
is acetic acid, it gets trapped under the silicone and does bad things...
I have used the windsheild black sticky stuff to seal body joints before
when bolting them together. Works well and does not harden completely.
I use a razor blade to cut the stuff that oozes out when you tighten the joint.
Dave
-
Some flavors, cure by reacting with the humidity in the air, and the byproduct
is acetic acid, it gets trapped under the silicone and does bad things...
I have used the windsheild black sticky stuff to seal body joints before
when bolting them together. Works well and does not harden completely.
I use a razor blade to cut the stuff that oozes out when you tighten the joint.
Dave
Whoops, got my acids wrong. Still, Black RTV is fine. I haven't had any issues with clear which had the acetic acid although I've only used it then both metal surfaces were painted. I haven't even bothered to clean it up any. I'll probably wait till the summer to fix it with something like urethane so it's not tacky then maybe repaint it.
-
I found yet another leak someplace. This time I think it's the PS low pressure line. Something is wet up there and it's dripping onto the lower radiator hose... What a PITA. I just topped off my transfer case as it was low as well.
-
It's a constant battle to keep these Jeeps from leaking!
-
It's a constant battle to keep these Jeeps from leaking!
Mines basically a giant green colander... :lol:
-
Well, it turns out the PS leak is probably just the thermostat housing leaking a bit. At least that's a cheap fix!
Carpet went back in. Actually it's the OEM carpet which only covers the front floors and trans hump. I'm liking the black carpet again.
-
OK, I'll revive this since it's STILL happening! Rained again and yet again, the floor was wet. I don't think I compressed the windshield cowl enough although there are no signs of where the water came in from. I'll have a few days of sun to fix this then it rains again. At least either didn't rain long enough or it didn't leak as much. Not quite sure which.
-
After living in Oregon for 38 years, I consider myself fairly well versed in leak stoppage. I really don't have a very high opinion of silicone in that type of application. You should try a butyl rubber caulking - it always worked best for me. Not the stuff from Home Depot either. Get it from a marine supply house like West Marine.
-
After living in Oregon for 38 years, I consider myself fairly well versed in leak stoppage. I really don't have a very high opinion of silicone in that type of application. You should try a butyl rubber caulking - it always worked best for me. Not the stuff from Home Depot either. Get it from a marine supply house like West Marine.
I don't believe the seam is leaking though. I had clear silicone on there before and that lasted 10 years with no problems other then having that silicone feel. I'll clean it out once summer comes and then I'll use something like 3M's Body Sealer which is clear and can run into the cracks a bit. I don't really feel like digging all of the old sealer out to reapply new stuff although that might be what's going to happen. In any case, the last few leaks have been from the cowl which wasn't seated tight enough. I can tell from the gap with the VIN plate. The OEM left maybe a 1/4" of a gap while now it's a little over 1/2".
-
how do you adjust the amount of pressure on the cowl seat? do you have to mess with that security torque on the roll-bar parts that go to the windshield ( i think that was slotted)or what. :confused:
-
how do you adjust the amount of pressure on the cowl seat? do you have to mess with that security torque on the roll-bar parts that go to the windshield ( i think that was slotted)or what. :confused:
you can release the bolts on top of the windshield first and then shorten the length of the bar going between the rollbar and the windshield (like you mentioned), then loosen the 2 top bolts on the windshield brackets on passenger and drivers side (those are slotted), tighten the bolts on top of the windshield frame and you are pressed in more on the cowl gasket. You could also loosen the bolts on the rollbar that hold the horizontal bars for more "range" but i think at some point you might need some more room on the slots in the brackets. I had to do that on the drivers side about 6 years ago as the windshield frame was away from the door more than i can compensate from the door hinges, this is what i remember that i had to do, worked ok for what i needed at the time.
-
how do you adjust the amount of pressure on the cowl seat? do you have to mess with that security torque on the roll-bar parts that go to the windshield ( i think that was slotted)or what. :confused:
You need to remove the spreader bars that go from the main hoop to the windshield frame. (Since I have a 6pt. cage, I do not have this.) You loosen the main windshield frame bolt as well as the two smaller ones on each side. This allows the bracket to be moved. Then you pull down on the windshield frame and set where you need the bracket to be. Tighten the top ones first then pull and lock down the frame with the big bolt.
You really shouldn't have to do this unless you have replaced the cowl seal as it will be very stuff and push the frame forward.
Oh and to get the spreader bar back on you would need to use a tamper-proof torx and adjust the length of the tube.
-
i had replaced the cowl seal when i got it and it never seemed tight enough after i changed it... and we got a tamper proof torques set now so i can actually adjust the top bars now.. ill have to adjust that this summer, although it isn't as big of a deal now since its stored inside now.
-
I still can't see where it's leaking from but there was a wet spot on the drivers footwell again. I'm going to reattach the upper windshield brackets so all of the stress isn't on the bottom bolts when it gets sunny again. I think the other leak stopped though. It was dripping down the face of the speaker before.
-
In all honesty, what I did with mine was use silicone on the outer windshield lip and seal it that way. I just got too tired of water coming in...
-
In all honesty, what I did with mine was use silicone on the outer windshield lip and seal it that way. I just got too tired of water coming in...
I've done that as well with my original. When it came to replacing it it was a bit of a PITA with the silicone. It's kind of a dumb design to have the big flange area sticking out and catching water. Might end up having to apply a little RTV to the backside though.
-
In all honesty, what I did with mine was use silicone on the outer windshield lip and seal it that way. I just got too tired of water coming in...
i did the same thing but it turns out it leaks from somewhere else.
I still can't see where it's leaking from but there was a wet spot on the drivers footwell again. I'm going to reattach the upper windshield brackets so all of the stress isn't on the bottom bolts when it gets sunny again. I think the other leak stopped though. It was dripping down the face of the speaker before.
i get the same thing, by the driver's feet - didn't get around to cover the vent to see if that's where the issue is.
-
i get the same thing, by the driver's feet - didn't get around to cover the vent to see if that's where the issue is.
I noticed on mine that when it rained sideways, I did get some water on my feel. Turned out that the little dent that I made when I routed the Daylighter's cables was enough to let water in. The water would go all the way to the wiper wires hole, and drip on my feet. A little silicone on the edge and around the aforementioned hole, and I have not had leaks since (of course, I also keep the Jeep in a garage now, which helps, as the side rain was only an issue when parked, not when driving).
-
Jeffy,
when you replaced the seal, did you reuse the plastic buttons (if i remember correctly that's how it is secured to the windshield frame) or did you buy new ones? if the latter what did you get and where did you buy them from? thanks in advance.
-
Jeffy,
when you replaced the seal, did you reuse the plastic buttons (if i remember correctly that's how it is secured to the windshield frame) or did you buy new ones? if the latter what did you get and where did you buy them from? thanks in advance.
Plastic buttons? For the cowl seal, there are 6 screws that attach it to the bottom of the windshield.
-
Plastic buttons? For the cowl seal, there are 6 screws that attach it to the bottom of the windshield.
ok, that's better - for some reason (just the picture i had in mind) i thought they are those plastic plugs like the ones that hold the rubber screens on the inner fenders (it's been quite a while since i lowered the windshield).
-
ow look what you did start talking about this leak and now my drivers side is leaking.. Not to worried about it for now as I just have sound deadener on the floor and no carpet. The drain holes are open so as soon as I move it they will drain. Its parked on a hill right now.
Supposed to have bad fog in the Morning so was checking the jeep out to take to work. Fog lights on my truck are not that good. Just put new lights on the jeep and it should be no problem. Put on a cheap set of fog lights, then put in a set of Hid Bulbs into them. Sure does light up the area.