4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: neale_rs on June 14, 2010, 04:41:24 PM
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I emailed both Currie and Dynatrac today asking for prices on front Dana 44s. I asked for stock YJ width and the ability to use off-the-shelf Rubicon D44 axle shafts. They both replied that this is really hard to get to work on YJ with leaf springs. It seems the diff housing would interfere with the driver side perch. It looks like the WMS to WMS would need to be wider (maybe close to a wagoneer axle) for it to end up centered. Their responses really surprised me.
Has anybody here seen a Rubi D44 front axle on a leaf sprung YJ?
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Which Rubicon D44 are you talking about? TJ or JK? I've seen the JK used on YJ's. Not sure about the TJ but you could probably grind some of the housing out of the way.
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http://jeepspace.jeepforum.com/paultyler
This guy is running Rubi axles and leafs. Even a 4 banger. He is a member on here too.
I shortened both sides of my F250 to Waggy inner length. With the F150 knuckles it's about 61.5 WMS-WMS pretty close to stock.
You could have them make it to Waggy inners if that's what they think will work better. Not sure what the width would be since you would be using the unit bearings.
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Which Rubicon D44 are you talking about? TJ or JK? I've seen the JK used on YJ's. Not sure about the TJ but you could probably grind some of the housing out of the way.
The TJ stock width.
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http://jeepspace.jeepforum.com/paultyler
This guy is running Rubi axles and leafs. Even a 4 banger. He is a member on here too.
I shortened both sides of my F250 to Waggy inner length. With the F150 knuckles it's about 61.5 WMS-WMS pretty close to stock.
You could have them make it to Waggy inners if that's what they think will work better. Not sure what the width would be since you would be using the unit bearings.
So the TJ Rubicon d44 front can be made to work.
Currie was saying they could get the width close but could not guarantee being able to use off-the-shelf TJ Rubicon axle shafts. Dynatrac said they had yet to mount their front 44 on a YJ. I suggested making it so Waggy stock Waggy shafts could be used. Let's see what they say in their next email.
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To fit a SJ axle on a YJ, you'll need to bring the stock perches in 1/2" which requires grinding into the housing a bit. Even if it's a custom axle. the housing and the spring perch width are the same so I suspect you'll have to do the same.
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If the pinion could be shifted a bit to the passenger side then the driver side tube can be made longer and the passenger side tube shorter. This would eliminate the need to grind the housing but would require custom axle shafts and might create other problems (driveshaft clearance?). Using off-the-shelf axles has a definite advantage so it's probably worth doing a little grinding.
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You could also just outboard the springs a bit seems like a better solution than grinding away at the axle housing.
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If the pinion could be shifted a bit to the passenger side then the driver side tube can be made longer and the passenger side tube shorter. This would eliminate the need to grind the housing but would require custom axle shafts and might create other problems (driveshaft clearance?). Using off-the-shelf axles has a definite advantage so it's probably worth doing a little grinding.
You can't move the diff to the passenger side to much or you will have D-shaft issues with the oil pan. Ya you don't want custom shafts.
See what Currie gets for a HP9. Not sure if it would be cheaper or easier to set up with the leafs. They have been doing them for years so it shouldn't be issue.
You could also just outboard the springs a bit seems like a better solution than grinding away at the axle housing.
I think the tires would rub the springs on tight turns. Mine do a little. But to much can cause problems.
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Why even consider a Rubi fake44? The SJ d44 is so much better, and if you're gonna spend the time and money, find a HP44 and have it narrowed for Waggy shafts. You gain the high pinion and very beefy 3/4t axletubes.
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Why even consider a Rubi fake44? The SJ d44 is so much better, and if you're gonna spend the time and money, find a HP44 and have it narrowed for Waggy shafts. You gain the high pinion and very beefy 3/4t axletubes.
Good points.
Neale are you looking for unit bearings or old school hubs type bearings?
Staying with the unit bearings is a bit cheaper since you keep your current wheels. Going to 5 on 5.5 would mean new rear dual pattern shafts plus wheels.
Finding a F150 or 250 HP D44 and having it narrowed would be cheaper in the long run then a new custom built one. Dynatrac has nice stuff but their prices are huge compaired to other axle builders.
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If the pinion could be shifted a bit to the passenger side then the driver side tube can be made longer and the passenger side tube shorter. This would eliminate the need to grind the housing but would require custom axle shafts and might create other problems (driveshaft clearance?). Using off-the-shelf axles has a definite advantage so it's probably worth doing a little grinding.
Then you're stuck using custom shafts. Centering the diff a bit isn't really a problem. Early Bronco's are like this and they were swapped into Jeeps before the whole SJ craze started. They do become a problem with some setups though. Auto's are usually a problem because the pan is rather wide. Some engine swaps will have problems as well. You can fix this by using a smaller dia. front driveshaft or cutting up the trans pan to clear. Honestly though, I don't see why you'd bother doing all of that. Just use a SJ D44 or cut down a F250 D44 HP and use a SJ shaft on the long side.
You could use a Rubicon D44 too. I'm sure Currie and DT don't want to have to mill the housing to fit a perch on there. I'd probably go with JK D44's as they seem to be more prevalent
http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/tech/0808_4wd_jeep_wrangler_yj_dana_44_axle/index.html.
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Looks like Solid is not a cheap builder! :yikes:
http://www.solidaxle.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=81&idcategory=18#details
I'd be curious how price compares to DT or Currie.
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Good points.
Neale are you looking for unit bearings or old school hubs type bearings?
Staying with the unit bearings is a bit cheaper since you keep your current wheels. Going to 5 on 5.5 would mean new rear dual pattern shafts plus wheels.
Finding a F150 or 250 HP D44 and having it narrowed would be cheaper in the long run then a new custom built one. Dynatrac has nice stuff but their prices are huge compaired to other axle builders.
I was hoping to keep the 5 on 4.5 to avoid further mods to the rear axle and wheels. An HP front is definitely what I'm looking for. Maybe the cheapest way is like a friend of mine did and just buy a big ford truck and swap the axles over full width. The funny thing is he never broke his D35 (open with 33s) and just recently snapped a shaft in the 9" (Detroit with 35s).
I'll post the prices once they send them.
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I was hoping to keep the 5 on 4.5 to avoid further mods to the rear axle and wheels. An HP front is definitely what I'm looking for. Maybe the cheapest way is like a friend of mine did and just buy a big ford truck and swap the axles over full width. The funny thing is he never broke his D35 (open with 33s) and just recently snapped a shaft in the 9" (Detroit with 35s).
I'll post the prices once they send them.
It really depends on what 9" he's using. There are 28 spline, 31 and 35 spline shafts. Small and big bearings as well. Car housing as truck housings. I'm gonna bet that he pushes his Jeep harder with the 9 then with the D35.
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It really depends on what 9" he's using. There are 28 spline, 31 and 35 spline shafts. Small and big bearings as well. Car housing as truck housings. I'm gonna bet that he pushes his Jeep harder with the 9 then with the D35.
I was wondering that myself.
I would bet that Currie could do a HP9 front with TJ inner C's and you could use unit bearings. On some of the D60's they build for TJ's they do the same thing. Sorta D60/30 ???
Back when I was shopping for D44 fronts I was getting the mid 4K's with hubs VS unit bearing.
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He's mostly running the same trails but trying individual obstacles and lines that are much harder. He was running the original shafts at the time. He might have alloys now.
So far we have
Solid $5145
Currie $3600 (without the D30 outer knuckles)
and still waiting on Dynatrac.
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I was wondering that myself.
I would bet that Currie could do a HP9 front with TJ inner C's and you could use unit bearings. On some of the D60's they build for TJ's they do the same thing. Sorta D60/30 ???
Back when I was shopping for D44 fronts I was getting the mid 4K's with hubs VS unit bearing.
Currie sells an off the shelf 9 that takes YJ/TJ inner knuckles (C-ends). I don't really like the idea of keeping the outers though.
I think it would still be cheaper to just locate a TJ Rubicon D44 and use that. You'll have to weld perches on and might have to weld to the tube and housing (which axle builders don't like to do) but it's pretty common. Has to be cheaper then getting an axle shipped then having to pay tariffs on it?
For comparison, I've looked at J8 axles. This is the export Jeep for several foreign militaries. The front is a HP Dana 44 and the rear is a custom Dana 60, which happens to be made by Dynatrac. They do use 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern and are 5" wider. You're looking at $3000 and $4500 and you'd need to change the gears as they are 4.10's.
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Here's another altenative that also uses the D30 outers:
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?jeep-sid=353&plID=354&partID=53068
Much cheaper too ($2538). This seems to be a low pinion d44 so then the comparison would have to be vs a Waggy front d44.
The local Jeep shops often get stuff from the 4wd catalog shipped here at the catalog price (they must get huge dealer discounts) and they might be able to do it with this too.
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Here's another altenative that also uses the D30 outers:
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?jeep-sid=353&plID=354&partID=53068
Much cheaper too ($2538). This seems to be a low pinion d44 so then the comparison would have to be vs a Waggy front d44.
The local Jeep shops often get stuff from the 4wd catalog shipped here at the catalog price (they must get huge dealer discounts) and they might be able to do it with this too.
I believe that company, G2 is associated with 4WPW.
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I believe that company, G2 is associated with 4WPW.
Yep they are one and the same. As with 4WD hardware. Pretty sure the parent company owns other brands as well.
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Yep they are one and the same. As with 4WD hardware. Pretty sure the parent company owns other brands as well.
It was a sad day when they took over 4WD Hardware. I like them more then Qtec. The parent company was Trans-something. I believe they own Pro-Comp Explorer as well as some other companies. The patent company is a parts distributor I think.
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It was a sad day when they took over 4WD Hardware. I like them more then Qtec. The parent company was Trans-something. I believe they own Pro-Comp Explorer as well as some other companies. The patent company is a parts distributor I think.
TransAmerica
http://www.ripoffreport.com/car-parts-accessories/4-wheel-parts-transa/4-wheel-parts-transamerican-f2466.htm
There is a lot of stuff like this^^ on the web.
Pro-comp is another of their brands.
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Quite a report there. The local shops here order directly from TransAmerica (that's what I see on the labels) and any returns are handled by the shop so it works out well for the customer. Most likely an individual customer (non-dealer) is more likely to be treated poorly.
It's also interesting the Quadratec is also selling G2 axles.
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It's also interesting the Quadratec is also selling G2 axles.
Qtec sells many brands, G2 is just another product to sell.
Any updates from Currie or DT?
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Currie already quoted their price ($3600). Seems too high based on the recent JP article where they build a Currie fabricated 9" housing. JP reports spending only about $2700 for about the same thing (actually more with the TJ brackets on it). Maybe a fabricated 9" is the way to go then!
DT still hasn't gotten back to me. I'll send them another email and see what they say.
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I wonder if they were using one of Currie's CRATE axles. That's Currie's off the shelf axle.
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A friend of mine is selling front and rear rubicon axles with 4.88 gears, rear has a arb, front the stock locker comes with currie steering, compressors, superior axle shafts front and rear and a fulltraction tri link bracket. $3500 takes it away
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Dynatrac emailed that they did some research on stock axle lengths and found no combination that would avoid the clearance problem with the housing at near stock width. And so they preferred not to quote a price.
So far the best alternatives are junkyard HP D44 or alloy shafts for the D30. A friend recently snapped both front shafts at the same time with a Waggy D44, stock shafts, and 35s. So he says stock D44 shafts are not good enough. His Tj has a 4.0, automatic and he is usually easy on the gas.
I'm going to put the front axle upgade on hold and concentrate on reducing vehicle weight for now.
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I had good luck with Warn shafts in the front of my D30 when I had it. Others I wheel with have had good luck with Superiors I know 1 that is running 37's with no failures yet. On 33's you should be fine with superiors and good joints.
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Something to think about. Here is a set from Nitro. Not sure who is making them.
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-159906-nitro-dana-30-chromoly-axle-shaft-kit.html
Here is a set from 10 factory. I think this is what I would do.
http://extremeaxlesales.com/87-96yjstockspline.aspx
If you fully plan on staying on 33's one of the above will last a long time and give you some peace of mind. Check around prices vary on brands. Personally I would stay away from the Yukon axles. But that's me.
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Thanks for the links. Some alloy shafts in the D30 sure seems like the fastest way at reasonable cost.