Topic: Interesting info from Currie and Dynatrac

[neale_rs]

I emailed both Currie and Dynatrac today asking for prices on front Dana 44s.  I asked for stock YJ width and the ability to use off-the-shelf Rubicon D44 axle shafts.  They both replied that this is really hard to get to work on YJ with leaf springs.  It seems the diff housing would interfere with the driver side perch.  It looks like the WMS to WMS would need to be wider (maybe close to a wagoneer axle) for it to end up centered. Their responses really surprised me.

Has anybody here seen a Rubi D44 front axle on a leaf sprung YJ?

[Jeffy]

Which Rubicon D44 are you talking about?  TJ or JK?  I've seen the JK used on YJ's.  Not sure about the TJ but you could probably grind some of the housing out of the way.

[FourbangerYJ]

http://jeepspace.jeepforum.com/paultyler
This guy is running Rubi axles and leafs. Even a 4 banger. He is a member on here too.
I shortened both sides of my F250 to Waggy inner length. With the F150 knuckles it's about 61.5 WMS-WMS pretty close to stock.
You could have them make it to Waggy inners if that's what they think will work better. Not sure what the width would be since you would be using the unit bearings.

[neale_rs]

Which Rubicon D44 are you talking about?  TJ or JK?  I've seen the JK used on YJ's.  Not sure about the TJ but you could probably grind some of the housing out of the way.

The TJ stock width.

[neale_rs]

http://jeepspace.jeepforum.com/paultyler
This guy is running Rubi axles and leafs. Even a 4 banger. He is a member on here too.
I shortened both sides of my F250 to Waggy inner length. With the F150 knuckles it's about 61.5 WMS-WMS pretty close to stock.
You could have them make it to Waggy inners if that's what they think will work better. Not sure what the width would be since you would be using the unit bearings.

So the TJ Rubicon d44 front can be made to work. 
Currie was saying they could get the width close but could not guarantee being able to use off-the-shelf TJ Rubicon axle shafts.  Dynatrac said they had yet to mount their front 44 on a YJ.  I suggested making it so Waggy stock Waggy shafts could be used. Let's see what they say in their next email.

[Jeffy]

To fit a SJ axle on a YJ, you'll need to bring the stock perches in 1/2" which requires grinding into the housing a bit.  Even if it's a custom axle. the housing and the spring perch width are the same so I suspect you'll have to do the same.

[neale_rs]

If the pinion could be shifted a bit to the passenger side then the driver side tube can be made longer and the passenger side tube shorter.  This would eliminate the need to grind the housing but would require custom axle shafts and might create other problems (driveshaft clearance?).  Using off-the-shelf axles has a definite advantage so it's probably worth doing a little grinding.

[aw12345]

You could also just outboard the springs a bit seems like a better solution than grinding away at the axle housing.

[FourbangerYJ]

If the pinion could be shifted a bit to the passenger side then the driver side tube can be made longer and the passenger side tube shorter.  This would eliminate the need to grind the housing but would require custom axle shafts and might create other problems (driveshaft clearance?).  Using off-the-shelf axles has a definite advantage so it's probably worth doing a little grinding.

You can't move the diff to the passenger side to much or you will have D-shaft issues with the oil pan. Ya you don't want custom shafts.
See what Currie gets for a HP9. Not sure if it would be cheaper or easier to set up with the leafs. They have been doing them for years so it shouldn't be issue.

You could also just outboard the springs a bit seems like a better solution than grinding away at the axle housing.

I think the tires would rub the springs on tight turns. Mine do a little. But to much can cause problems.

[Bounty Hunter]

Why even consider a Rubi fake44?  The SJ d44 is so much better, and if you're gonna spend the time and money, find a HP44 and have it narrowed for Waggy shafts.  You gain the high pinion and very beefy 3/4t axletubes.

[FourbangerYJ]

Why even consider a Rubi fake44?  The SJ d44 is so much better, and if you're gonna spend the time and money, find a HP44 and have it narrowed for Waggy shafts.  You gain the high pinion and very beefy 3/4t axletubes.

Good points.
 Neale are you looking for unit bearings or old school hubs type bearings?
Staying with the unit bearings is a bit cheaper since you keep your current wheels. Going to 5 on 5.5 would mean new rear dual pattern shafts plus wheels.
Finding a F150 or 250 HP D44 and having it narrowed would be cheaper in the long run then a new custom built one. Dynatrac has nice stuff but their prices are huge compaired to other axle builders.

[Jeffy]

If the pinion could be shifted a bit to the passenger side then the driver side tube can be made longer and the passenger side tube shorter.  This would eliminate the need to grind the housing but would require custom axle shafts and might create other problems (driveshaft clearance?).  Using off-the-shelf axles has a definite advantage so it's probably worth doing a little grinding.

Then you're stuck using custom shafts.  Centering the diff a bit isn't really a problem.  Early Bronco's are like this and they were swapped into Jeeps before the whole SJ craze started.  They do become a problem with some setups though.  Auto's are usually a problem because the pan is rather wide.  Some engine swaps will have problems as well.  You can fix this by using a smaller dia. front driveshaft or cutting up the trans pan to clear.  Honestly though, I don't see why you'd bother doing all of that.  Just use a SJ D44 or cut down a F250 D44 HP and use a SJ shaft on the long side.

You could use a Rubicon D44 too.  I'm sure Currie and DT don't want to have to mill the housing to fit a perch on there.  I'd probably go with JK D44's as they seem to be more prevalent

http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/tech/0808_4wd_jeep_wrangler_yj_dana_44_axle/index.html.

[FourbangerYJ]

Looks like Solid is not a cheap builder!
http://www.solidaxle.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=81&idcategory=18#details
I'd be curious how price compares to DT or Currie.

[neale_rs]

Good points.
 Neale are you looking for unit bearings or old school hubs type bearings?
Staying with the unit bearings is a bit cheaper since you keep your current wheels. Going to 5 on 5.5 would mean new rear dual pattern shafts plus wheels.
Finding a F150 or 250 HP D44 and having it narrowed would be cheaper in the long run then a new custom built one. Dynatrac has nice stuff but their prices are huge compaired to other axle builders.

I was hoping to keep the 5 on 4.5 to avoid further mods to the rear axle and wheels.  An HP front is definitely what I'm looking for.  Maybe the cheapest way is like a friend of mine did and just buy a big ford truck and swap the axles over full width.  The funny thing is he never broke his D35 (open with 33s) and just recently snapped a shaft in the 9" (Detroit with 35s).

I'll post the prices once they send them.

[Jeffy]

I was hoping to keep the 5 on 4.5 to avoid further mods to the rear axle and wheels.  An HP front is definitely what I'm looking for.  Maybe the cheapest way is like a friend of mine did and just buy a big ford truck and swap the axles over full width.  The funny thing is he never broke his D35 (open with 33s) and just recently snapped a shaft in the 9" (Detroit with 35s).

I'll post the prices once they send them.

It really depends on what 9" he's using.  There are 28 spline, 31 and 35 spline shafts.  Small and big bearings as well.  Car housing as truck housings.  I'm gonna bet that he pushes his Jeep harder with the 9 then with the D35.