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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: freedommachine on January 26, 2011, 11:13:58 PM
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My tj has a dana 35 with an arb locker. When I bought the tj it came lifted with the arb. I know for a fact it has the arb locker but is it a super 35. Would somone put a arb locker in with out doing the super 35. I just did the diff fluid change but did not have the time to pull out one of the axle shafts,and wont again for a while. It just seems weird to me that somone would put money into a dana 35 arb locker and not do somthing about the axle shafts. I driven the heck out of it and not broke a shaft it seems strong so far. So do you think it is a super 35 or just arb locker with stock shafts?
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a super 35 would have Superior 30 spline chromoly axles, there should be a sticker on the end of the axle where it sticks out of the drum, also I think a p/n number would be stamped (you should be able to see it if you remove the drum).
it is possible to have chromoly axles which are 27 spline, they would be better than stock. or 30 spline axles that are not chromoly, still better than stock in this case as well. The super 35 combines the both worlds. In general the Super 35 kits come with a locker, so it is possible that's what you have.
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I have taken both rear wheels off and drum and there isnt any stick but some number on the shaft that I cant figure out what they mean I could post the number if that would help?
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About the only way to tell is to pull a shaft and count the splines or measure the shaft. The super has more splines and is larger dia. 1.30 VS. 1.27
From what I have seen all the aftermarket shafts have a sticker on the flange where the wheel bolts to it for advertising. They could of come off or were taken off. But I would guess they are stock shafts.
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I have taken both rear wheels off and drum and there isnt any stick but some number on the shaft that I cant figure out what they mean I could post the number if that would help?
Not all shafts have stickers but they look a lot different then OE's. Aftermarket shafts usually have a smooth milled surface while OE's aren't. I seem to think that most if not all of the Super 35's are drilled for both 5 on 4.5" as well as 5 on 5.5" now. Only the early ones would have only 5 on 4.5" patterns.
I would think the numbers are superiors part numbers. One should end in a L and the other R, IIRC.
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The flange part where the number are is smooth black like powder coating, if that also makes a difference and the picture i have i am looking at isnt clear but it looks like a L on the side. I dont know what a stock shaft looks like, I think it would be more rust than powder coating.
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The flange part where the number are is smooth black like powder coating, if that also makes a difference and the picture i have i am looking at isnt clear but it looks like a L on the side. I dont know what a stock shaft looks like, I think it would be more rust than powder coating.
You can see there are two lugs in the center of the shaft. *note this isn't a D35 but should be similar enough
(http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/superior02/DSCN0906.jpg)
Here's what a Superior shaft looks like. Notice no sticker. Didn't come with one.
(http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/superior02/DSCN0915.jpg)
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Mine looks just like the top picture. Thanks for posting the pics
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Mine looks just like the top with the two lugs in the center so that means its is stock?
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Mine looks just like the top with the two lugs in the center so that means its is stock?
:nod: As far as I know.
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Mine looks just like the top with the two lugs in the center so that means its is stock?
Yes. Most aftermarket axles are flush on the flange end.
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So that means that since I have stocks shafts I probably shouldnt run the locker locked?
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So that means that since I have stocks shafts I probably shouldnt run the locker locked?
don't run it locked if you have strong grip, if you're in mud or snow or loose gravel and you need wheels locked you can run it.
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don't run it locked if you have strong grip, if you're in mud or snow or loose gravel and you need wheels locked you can run it.
In the snow or mud for a short distance would be the only time I would want to run it locked. Ive ran it before but never more than just 30 feet at the most when i was a little stuck in the snow and didnt want to shovel or pull winch. For my type of wheeling I dont see needing to run locked in rocks or solid traction areas.
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As far as I understand, the breaking of axles comes when you dont have traction (and the wheels are spiining), and, suddenly, you get traction. Knowing this, if you take it easy on the skinny pedal, you should be able to avoid breaking it. In other words, dont just gun it. Go slow and try to crawl over obstables instead of overpowering them.
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Thats my plan stay off the skinny pedal keep rpms super low. I dont like to gun it I am not only afraid of breaking axles shafts but drive shafts tranny etc. More so now that I know I have stock shafts.
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As far as I understand, the breaking of axles comes when you dont have traction (and the wheels are spiining), and, suddenly, you get traction. Knowing this, if you take it easy on the skinny pedal, you should be able to avoid breaking it. In other words, dont just gun it. Go slow and try to crawl over obstables instead of overpowering them.
i think you can brake it on pavement as well with big tires if you're turning tight circles, or something else like the driveshaft if the axles hold.
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As far as I understand, the breaking of axles comes when you dont have traction (and the wheels are spiining), and, suddenly, you get traction. Knowing this, if you take it easy on the skinny pedal, you should be able to avoid breaking it. In other words, dont just gun it. Go slow and try to crawl over obstables instead of overpowering them.
This is where I've seen all of the D35's break. It's that shock load they receive.
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So I guess that maybe if money permits I should look at 27 spline chromolly? Make so of a lesser form of a super 35 sort of a super 35 with 27 splines instead of 30. The 27 spline chromoly say they are suposed to be 30% stronger than stock and put in with my arb should be a nice set up with spare shafts
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So I guess that maybe if money permits I should look at 27 spline chromolly? Make so of a lesser form of a super 35 sort of a super 35 with 27 splines instead of 30. The 27 spline chromoly say they are suposed to be 30% stronger than stock and put in with my arb should be a nice set up with spare shafts
Maybe because you already have the ARB, but it is a better choice to go to D44 or F8.8... Alkthough, having said that, I have yet to have a problem with my Super D35 and ARB. Mine is 31 spline (IIRC; it's defenetly more than 27) though.
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It really depends on what trails you do. If the are difficult then get some aftermarket shafts. Then use your stock shafts as spares. Otherwise buy a used set of stock shafts and use those as spares.
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Otherwise buy a used set of stock shafts and use those as spares.
I would go with that option; D35 shafts are typically cheap to find, as most people tend to take them out anyway.
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Mine is 31 spline (IIRC; it's defenetly more than 27) though.
30, the C-clip groove doesn't count as a spline :lol:
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Buying stock shafts for spares sounds good to me. I wheeled the heck out of it when I bought it, because I didnt know anything about dana 35s. I towed trailers weighing over 1000 pounds,drove it on some rocky roads for miles to the middle of nowhere,taken it through creeks, even ran the locker in deep snow but havent broke the shafts yet. I know they can break, so I stay off the skinny pedal. So a spare set of stock shafts should do me good.
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The more I look into it I think I will go with superior 27 spline c-clip eliminators. How well do you think that set up would work. The 4340, 27 spline c-clip elims on 33 mtr/kevlar
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The more I look into it I think I will go with superior 27 spline c-clip eliminators. How well do you think that set up would work. The 4340, 27 spline c-clip elims on 33 mtr/kevlar
you would spend something like $500+ but still can't drive it if you break a shaft (they are not full floaters).
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Wow, $500 for spline eliminators? Pre-91's don't have C-clips. ARB back in the day invented the eliminators because of that very reason. They then redesigned their locker and sold off the mfg of the kit. Still for $500, is a lot of money on something that that's bring any additional strength over Superiors C-clip axle kits.
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Still for $500, is a lot of money on something that that's bring any additional strength over Superiors C-clip axle kits.
I dont understand what you are saying in that line?
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Wow, $500 for spline eliminators? Pre-91's don't have C-clips. ARB back in the day invented the eliminators because of that very reason. They then redesigned their locker and sold off the mfg of the kit. Still for $500, is a lot of money on something that that's bring any additional strength over Superiors C-clip axle kits.
make that $600+ http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=42680 but can probably be around 500 on sale.
I dont understand what you are saying in that line?
he meant $500 is a lot of money for something that doesn't bring any extra strength (compared to a set of c-clip chromolly axles)
not to mention that you still can't drive it when the axle breaks, probably move it around a bit but that's about it.
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make that $600+ http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=42680 but can probably be around 500 on sale.
he meant $500 is a lot of money for something that doesn't bring any extra strength (compared to a set of c-clip chromolly axles)
not to mention that you still can't drive it when the axle breaks, probably move it around a bit but that's about it.
They c-clip elims are chromolly 4340 not like the stock 1050 or what ever it is. So it is c-clip elims with superior chromolly shafts
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They c-clip elims are chromolly 4340 not like the stock 1050 or what ever it is. So it is c-clip elims with superior chromolly shafts
i understand that, what we're saying is that a set of c-clip chromolly axles are cheaper and as strong as the eliminator ones, that's all. They are both stronger than stock.
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i understand that, what we're saying is that a set of c-clip chromolly axles are cheaper and as strong as the eliminator ones, that's all. They are both stronger than stock.
okay now I got it. Well I just to me seems a little safer if I was to break a shaft at least it would not walk out on me if I was climbing a hill or driving on the road
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okay now I got it. Well I just to me seems a little safer if I was to break a shaft at least it would not walk out on me if I was climbing a hill or driving on the road
that's true, but...
you would still have to fix it before you can drive it home, and since you have the eliminator bearings a stock replacement axle would not fit (you can't just move the bearing over to the stock axle unfortunately)
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I have thought about just the 27 spline chromollies with c-clip so I would have my stocks as spares but it seems like it would take a lot to break the chromolly shafts.
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I have thought about just the 27 spline chromollies with c-clip so I would have my stocks as spares but it seems like it would take a lot to break the chromolly shafts.
That is the wise choice. BUT I wouldn't spend any money on a D35 other than a oil change. They are weak.
Save the money and put it towards a stronger axle!