Topic: Is this a super 35 with arb or just dana 35 with arb

[freedommachine]

 My tj has a dana 35 with an arb locker. When I bought the tj it came lifted with the arb. I know for a fact it has the arb locker but  is it a super 35. Would somone put a arb locker in with out doing the super 35. I just did the diff fluid change but did not have the time to pull out one of the axle shafts,and wont again for a while. It just seems weird to me that somone would put money into a dana 35  arb locker and not do somthing about the axle shafts. I driven the heck out of it and not broke a shaft it seems strong so far.  So do you think it is a super 35 or just arb locker with stock shafts?

[sharpxmen]

a super 35 would have Superior 30 spline chromoly axles, there should be a sticker on the end of the axle where it sticks out of the drum, also I think a p/n number would be stamped (you should be able to see it if you remove the drum).

it is possible to have chromoly axles which are 27 spline, they would be better than stock. or 30 spline axles that are not chromoly, still better than stock in this case as well. The super 35 combines the both worlds. In general the Super 35 kits come with a locker, so it is possible that's what you have.

[freedommachine]

I have taken both rear wheels off and drum and there isnt any stick but some number on the shaft that I cant figure out what they mean I could post the number if that would help?

[FourbangerYJ]

About the only way to tell is to pull a shaft and count the splines or measure the shaft. The super has more splines and is larger dia. 1.30 VS. 1.27
From what I have seen all the aftermarket shafts have a sticker on the flange where the wheel bolts to it for advertising. They could of come off or were taken off. But I would guess they are stock shafts.

[Jeffy]

I have taken both rear wheels off and drum and there isnt any stick but some number on the shaft that I cant figure out what they mean I could post the number if that would help?

Not all shafts have stickers but they look a lot different then OE's.  Aftermarket shafts usually have a smooth milled surface while OE's aren't.  I seem to think that most if not all of the Super 35's are drilled for both 5 on 4.5" as well as 5 on 5.5" now.  Only the early ones would have only 5 on 4.5" patterns.

I would think the numbers are superiors part numbers.  One should end in a L and the other R, IIRC.

[freedommachine]

The flange part where the  number are is smooth  black  like powder coating, if that also makes a difference and the picture i have i am looking at isnt clear but it looks like a L on the side.  I dont know what a stock shaft looks like, I think it would be more rust than powder coating.

[Jeffy]

The flange part where the  number are is smooth  black  like powder coating, if that also makes a difference and the picture i have i am looking at isnt clear but it looks like a L on the side.  I dont know what a stock shaft looks like, I think it would be more rust than powder coating.

You can see there are two lugs in the center of the shaft. *note this isn't a D35 but should be similar enough



Here's what a Superior shaft looks like.  Notice no sticker.  Didn't come with one.

[freedommachine]

Mine looks just like the top picture. Thanks for posting the pics

[freedommachine]

Mine looks just like the top with the two lugs in the center so that means its is stock?

[FourbangerYJ]

Mine looks just like the top with the two lugs in the center so that means its is stock?

  As far as I know.

[Jeffy]

Mine looks just like the top with the two lugs in the center so that means its is stock?

Yes.  Most aftermarket axles are flush on the flange end.

[freedommachine]

So that means that since  I have stocks shafts I probably shouldnt run the locker locked?

[sharpxmen]

So that means that since  I have stocks shafts I probably shouldnt run the locker locked?

don't run it locked if you have strong grip, if you're in mud or snow or loose gravel and you need wheels locked you can run it.

[freedommachine]

don't run it locked if you have strong grip, if you're in mud or snow or loose gravel and you need wheels locked you can run it.

In the snow or mud for a short distance would be the only time I would want to run it locked. Ive ran it before but never more than just 30 feet at the most when i was a little stuck in the snow and didnt want to shovel or pull winch. For my type of wheeling I dont see needing to run locked in rocks or solid traction areas.

[jfrabat]

As far as I understand, the breaking of axles comes when you dont have traction (and the wheels are spiining), and, suddenly, you get traction.  Knowing this, if you take it easy on the skinny pedal, you should be able to avoid breaking it.  In other words, dont just gun it.  Go slow and try to crawl over obstables instead of overpowering them.