Author Topic: 2.5L rebuild  (Read 2298 times)

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Kurt

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2.5L rebuild
« on: December 23, 2005, 12:27:01 PM »
Hello everyone, I am new to the forums and have come across a problem I hope someone can help me with or point me to some articles.

I have a 1993 Wrangler with a 2.5L MPI with about 130K miles on it, I had been getting aweful gas mileage (around 14-15 highway) and had a strange metallic knocking/pinging/clicking noise in the engine.

This past week on my way to work (it is my daily driver) I noticed I had no power and a quick gauge check showed no oil pressure, I turned down the radio and sure enough, the engine sounded horrible. I pulled over and got a tow back home. This morning I finished pulling the engine, and after getting it mounted on an engine stand, pulled the oil pan, there must be 1/4 cup of metal shards, although I havent found where it has all come from (I need to buy a deep well socket to finish removing the head) I am planning on just rebuilding the engine from the block up. While I am far from a mechanic, I am comfortable with pulling the engine and taking it apart (after taking some photos, buying a Haynes manual, and labelling everything)

I am mostly confused right now about what all I should plan on doing, I  do not want to pull the engine again for quite some time, so I am looking for opinions on what all should be replaced/done (clutch? bore the block? etc...) that is much easier now with the engine out. I have been told to replace head bolts during a rebuild? Should I have the block cleaned at a shop or can I do it with degreaser and a pressure washer? Should I plan to tap all the holes in the block? Replace freeze plugs? I am also wanting to install a 2" body lift so my 31-10.50s fit a little better, is this the time to do that or does it not matter? I also noticed while pulling the engine, the passenger side engine mount seems to be broken (it fell off while lifting the engine), should I replace this or just weld it back onto the frame rail?

Any advice or links to resources would be greatly appreciated! I have a truck I am driving now so I am not in a huge hurry but am on a budget  :D  Thanks!

jeepboy21

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2.5L rebuild
« Reply #1 on: December 23, 2005, 01:33:22 PM »
i know your on a budget but i would replace everything you can.  while your at it you might want to consider putting in performance parts.  check the FAQ for P/N's

jwrape

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Re: 2.5L rebuild
« Reply #2 on: December 23, 2005, 02:00:06 PM »
Quote from: "Kurt"
Hello everyone, I am new to the forums and have come across a problem I hope someone can help me with or point me to some articles.

I have a 1993 Wrangler with a 2.5L MPI with about 130K miles on it, I had been getting aweful gas mileage (around 14-15 highway) and had a strange metallic knocking/pinging/clicking noise in the engine.

This past week on my way to work (it is my daily driver) I noticed I had no power and a quick gauge check showed no oil pressure, I turned down the radio and sure enough, the engine sounded horrible. I pulled over and got a tow back home. This morning I finished pulling the engine, and after getting it mounted on an engine stand, pulled the oil pan, there must be 1/4 cup of metal shards, although I havent found where it has all come from (I need to buy a deep well socket to finish removing the head) I am planning on just rebuilding the engine from the block up. While I am far from a mechanic, I am comfortable with pulling the engine and taking it apart (after taking some photos, buying a Haynes manual, and labelling everything)

I am mostly confused right now about what all I should plan on doing, I  do not want to pull the engine again for quite some time, so I am looking for opinions on what all should be replaced/done (clutch? bore the block? etc...) that is much easier now with the engine out. I have been told to replace head bolts during a rebuild? Should I have the block cleaned at a shop or can I do it with degreaser and a pressure washer? Should I plan to tap all the holes in the block? Replace freeze plugs? I am also wanting to install a 2" body lift so my 31-10.50s fit a little better, is this the time to do that or does it not matter? I also noticed while pulling the engine, the passenger side engine mount seems to be broken (it fell off while lifting the engine), should I replace this or just weld it back onto the frame rail?

Any advice or links to resources would be greatly appreciated! I have a truck I am driving now so I am not in a huge hurry but am on a budget  :D  Thanks!



Sounds like your oil pump just gave out.  I would do what I plan to do and build the motor like this guy and get a little more power out o the old girl.
http://www.4bangerjp.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=662&highlight=

Yes, you can clean the block with a degreaser BUT the ideal way to clean it would be to have it vadded in Acid. This way it cleans out all the interanal oil and water ports, not just the outside. You will have to replace the freeze plugs if you have it vadded. The motor mount will defiantely need to be replaced. I really don't think it matters when you do the body lift. really doesn't affect your rebuild.

If you wanna get even more out of your build, go ahead and add a cam from this place with a healthy .470 lift. This is a VERY agressive cam. Should really give a nice boost to your low end performance. In turn when you are in 5th gear at 2k rpms you will be able to maintain highway speed better as well.
http://www.hescosc.com/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?7X364946

Kurt

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2.5L rebuild
« Reply #3 on: December 23, 2005, 08:01:15 PM »
Thanks for the info guys! This is exactly what I was looking for. I'll check out those links. I was actually considering doing some performance work on it while I have it out (header, cam, lose the mechanical fan and go with electric, etc...) so this advise is very helpful.

I'll reply with the final changes made when Im done (and may be back with more questions while im doing it) :D

Also, is there an easy way to determine what transmission and axles my jeep has? (number stamps or something on them) I'm curious as to what I have exactly. I also assume this is the perfect time to replace the clutch since they are only about $150 or so, mine loks fine but has 130K miles on it and would be REALLY easy to swap out right now.

thanks again!

Gearhead2.5

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2.5L rebuild
« Reply #4 on: December 24, 2005, 07:46:18 PM »
I'll answer a few more of your questions  and add a few comments / suggestions.............................................

First , .... you'd be better off with a factory service manual , the haynes manual doesn't do it for me , not even close . Order a factory manual while you are at the dealer buying new motor mounts.

Choose a machine shop which has a good reputation , you can then trust them to do the work properly and on time. Many machine shops will do a " machine package ' , this is , you deliver to them , your block , crank , rods and pistons , cylinder head , ............ they do all the cleaning , inspection , reconditioning and machining . Once they have that completed , you pick up the parts and assemble it yourself.

Once you finish dis-assembly , the cleaning and inspection of parts begins , based on your description of metal particles in the oil pan , there is a good chance the crank will need to be re-ground , if it's real bad ...... replaced.
The machine shop will make that decision at the time it is inspected and measured.



Head bolts can only be used twice.

Plan on replacing the following................... the machine shop should be able to supply  every thing needed.

Timing chain and sprockets
Chain tensioner
Oil pump
Camshaft and lifters
Pushrods ( optional )
Rocker arms and pivots ( optional )
Valve springs ( optional )
Main bearings
Rod bearings
Freeze plugs
Pistons and rings

Plan on the machine shop doing the following.........

Hot tank block and cylinder head
Check all parts for cracks or defects
Recondition rods and install  new pistons
Bore cylinders
Supply and install cam bearings
Resurface block and or cylinder head as reqd.
Grind crankshaft
Re-condition cylinder head as reqd.

The machine shop should be able to provide all necessary supplies at a competitive price , such as gaskets  or any items required to finish up an engine rebuild , many even sell clutches , radiators , belts and hoses too ( hint) , when discussing the machine work and booking the job in , at the machine shop , inform them of your needs so the parts can be ready and picked up as a package with your freshly machined engine block and other parts.

I just went thru this on my 94  ,  replacing all wearing internal parts listed above , additionally ,  the water pump , the radiator and hoses , the exhaust system and O2 sensor , both engine mounts , a rebuilt distributor all got replaced at the same time.

This 94 was a hurtin unit when I brought it home  , I'm no stranger to restoration , overhaul / rebuilds , having done it numerous times ,  being set up to do cylinderhead work at home helps too.

Here's the rebuilt long block just before being dropped back in ......




The cylinderhead ......... once I found one that wasn't cracked ! , ..... got re-conditioned here at home w/ three angle valve job and new springs , I lucked out and found a head that did not need valve guides. The grinding was done outside ,  it was a nice day , and the block , crank n' stuff was all laid out inside , the grinding work is kinda dirty.


Offline Jeffy

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2.5L rebuild
« Reply #5 on: December 24, 2005, 07:58:44 PM »
Hmm, with some tweaking this could be used for a 'how-to'.
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
My Jeep: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=2783.0
"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Gearhead2.5

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2.5L rebuild
« Reply #6 on: December 24, 2005, 08:16:35 PM »
If only I had taken better pics , or ..... was a better photographer.

Offline Jeffy

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2.5L rebuild
« Reply #7 on: December 24, 2005, 08:18:48 PM »
Pictures are fine.  You can do it one of two ways.  One is to keep everything general and explain the overall process.  Then go into a bit more detail on captions for the pictures.
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZNlr60GXH5OlKIFrT7P6mg
My Jeep: http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=2783.0
"If the motor car were invented today, there is absolutely no way that any government in the world would let normal members of the public drive one."

Kurt

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2.5L rebuild
« Reply #8 on: December 26, 2005, 12:37:06 PM »
Excellent post Gearhead, I think im ready dive in now. Everyone has been very helpful with this project and I greatly appreciate it!

I will plan to document the entire process (with any problems of course) I'll post back when I'm all done.

Once again, many, many  thanks for all the helpful answers!

jwrape

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2.5L rebuild
« Reply #9 on: December 28, 2005, 12:11:14 PM »
Nice Pics Gearhead. That's what I hope my rebuild will end up like.

BK2LIFE

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2.5L rebuild
« Reply #10 on: June 05, 2006, 11:09:19 PM »
good post