Topic: Stop children what's that sound?

[Jeffy]

Does it matter if you have the clutch in or out?

Haven't really thought about that.  Not sure.

[Jeffy]

OK, I played around with shifting at around 35-40MPH.  Shifts fine into 5th and doesn't rattle even if I lug it.  So I'm thinking it might be the rear bearing in the transfer case and the driveshaft angle.  It's a bit steep though.  This also might be the squeaking I get.  (It's still a problem pin pointing it but it's from the rear-ish and the axle bearing is the only old bearing.)  I do get a little wobble in the driveshaft if I lift it at the T-case.  So what do you think?  Driveshaft/transfer case?  Am I gonna need a Atlas 4.0 now?

[neale_rs]

My guess it's the play in the driveshaft. Either a SYE or an Atlas and CV driveshaft.  Go for the Atlas!

[FourbangerYJ]

U joints are fairly cheap. Could start with them. Since your running a stock DS you could see it you could find a low mile take out for cheap if you think maybe the slip yoke is getting worn.

[Jeffy]

My guess it's the play in the driveshaft. Either a SYE or an Atlas and CV driveshaft.  Go for the Atlas!

Nope, not gonna put a SYE in there.  I've put it off for decades, literally.  I want a new transfer case eventually.  Either an Atlas II 5.0 or a Atlas 4 10.34:1.  The hanging point is if the AX-5 is OK and if I want to keep it.  I'd hate to swap it in then find I need to swap it for some reason then have to send the Atlas in to get the input shaft swapped. (I don't think they sell them separately.  It was around $200-300 to have done last I checked.)  I think my AX-5 is OK though.  Just gets tough to shift when the temp drop and it's not warmed up.  Typical for the transmission.  Also, I have to see how much work it will be to get a Atlas 4 in there and if I want to go with a flat skid plate.  I don't have the tools to do major fabrication right now.

U joints are fairly cheap. Could start with them. Since your running a stock DS you could see it you could find a low mile take out for cheap if you think maybe the slip yoke is getting worn.

U-joints are new.  And Spicers.  Whatever it is it's causing a vibration at 65-70 mph that's making the rattling noise.  I wonder if I rotated the slip yoke 180* when I put it back together.

[sharpxmen]

I wonder if I rotated the slip yoke 180* when I put it back together.

that can be checked if you lift one wheel off the ground, put the transmission in 3rd or 4th gear and watch the d/s spinning (given you have an open diff, if not then lift both wheels), should tell you if it's not centered.  I know the cv is timed (ayou s in put together 1 way and can't be switched around or will wobble, didn't know that regular u-joints are the same but it could but then it makes you wonder what about the yoke side).

I have a strange noise too and cannot figure it out, sounds like a big 18 wheeler when just touching the brakes (not as loud but similar sound), however is not the brakes as i can press them with my left foot and no changes - only happens once in a blue moon and it goes away quickly, it's also very quiet so i can't pinpoint if it's front or rear, drives me nutz

[Jeffy]

that can be checked if you lift one wheel off the ground, put the transmission in 3rd or 4th gear and watch the d/s spinning (given you have an open diff, if not then lift both wheels), should tell you if it's not centered.  I know the cv is timed (ayou s in put together 1 way and can't be switched around or will wobble, didn't know that regular u-joints are the same but it could but then it makes you wonder what about the yoke side).

I have a strange noise too and cannot figure it out, sounds like a big 18 wheeler when just touching the brakes (not as loud but similar sound), however is not the brakes as i can press them with my left foot and no changes - only happens once in a blue moon and it goes away quickly, it's also very quiet so i can't pinpoint if it's front or rear, drives me nutz

It's too cold to go do this stuff right now so I'll put it off till it gets warmer.

I'm really wanting an Atlas 4.0 10:34 though.  Have to look at neale's thread to see what's all involved.  An Atlas has been on the board ever since it came out.  I just didn't want to do anything till I've sorted out the axles and suspension.  Now the suspension is about where I want it and the axles, well, I might keep the D44.    I also don't want to move the engine forward as I might do an engine swap in the future(or not).  DS's and TC have been pretty high on the list though.  The rattling is definitely from the trans tunnel area.  The squeaking is faint but is heard better with the pass side window open.  I can't hear it on the driver side as well.  So that might not be the TC.

** Ooo, they have an 11.70:1 now...

[neale_rs]

I would recommend the 11.7, it's a better mix of ratios.   IIRC, you are running a body lift, in which case I'm pretty sure you could fit the Atlas 4 speed with a pretty flat skid plate, probably with about 1" depth if not completely flat.  Maybe your motor mount lift (IIRC) puts your drivetrain at a different angle so it might not work out the same way for you. Overall, I think the Atlas 4 speed install, with the stock skid plate, is easier than installing the Atlas 2 speed.  This is because the 2 sp fits right over the center rib on the skid plate and will require some fab work to cut down the rib and weld it shut again.  The 4 sp will fit behind the rib and require no skid plate mods (assuming it is straight, mine was bowed up in the middle).  Doing the install with the stock skid plate will make things cheaper and quicker until you decide to fab a custom skid plate.  Mine was replaced mainly because the mounting area where the tranny mount bolts go through was very rust damaged and it was pretty beat up in general.

[sharpxmen]

my D300 fits over the center rib and is clocked down, i only had to put a 1/4'' spacer under the transmission mount, i' don't think it's an issue with the Atlas since they are virtually the same as far as dimensions are concerned, i would think it's worthwhile to get the 4 speed though or go with a D300 & BlackBox-i combo for a cheaper but similar alternative. The nice thing about the Atlas is that it has synchros so you can shift it on the fly (to a certain extent of course, i wouldn't attempt that at 50mph )

[Jeffy]

I would recommend the 11.7, it's a better mix of ratios.   IIRC, you are running a body lift, in which case I'm pretty sure you could fit the Atlas 4 speed with a pretty flat skid plate, probably with about 1" depth if not completely flat.  Maybe your motor mount lift (IIRC) puts your drivetrain at a different angle so it might not work out the same way for you. Overall, I think the Atlas 4 speed install, with the stock skid plate, is easier than installing the Atlas 2 speed.  This is because the 2 sp fits right over the center rib on the skid plate and will require some fab work to cut down the rib and weld it shut again.  The 4 sp will fit behind the rib and require no skid plate mods (assuming it is straight, mine was bowed up in the middle).  Doing the install with the stock skid plate will make things cheaper and quicker until you decide to fab a custom skid plate.  Mine was replaced mainly because the mounting area where the tranny mount bolts go through was very rust damaged and it was pretty beat up in general.

Hmm, good to know.  I'll probably keep the stock skidplate for simplicity especially if it works without any modifications.  Would I want a CV 1310 front or just stick with the regular setup?  Not like it's really got an angle problem with the additional length.  I'm sure I'll need a 1310 CV for the rear though.  Actually I don't really need a MM lift if I have a CV joint at the rear.  Although it does allow me to go flat and still retain the stock angle...

my D300 fits over the center rib and is clocked down, i only had to put a 1/4'' spacer under the transmission mount, i' don't think it's an issue with the Atlas since they are virtually the same as far as dimensions are concerned, i would think it's worthwhile to get the 4 speed though or go with a D300 & BlackBox-i combo for a cheaper but similar alternative. The nice thing about the Atlas is that it has synchros so you can shift it on the fly (to a certain extent of course, i wouldn't attempt that at 50mph )

Yeah, Shift-On-The-Fly is nice.  The 231 4Hi is able to shift at 50-55MPH, IIRC.  nice feature so you don't have to rock back and forth to get it into gear.

[neale_rs]

Hmm, good to know.  I'll probably keep the stock skidplate for simplicity especially if it works without any modifications.  Would I want a CV 1310 front or just stick with the regular setup?  Not like it's really got an angle problem with the additional length.  I'm sure I'll need a 1310 CV for the rear though.  Actually I don't really need a MM lift if I have a CV joint at the rear.  Although it does allow me to go flat and still retain the stock angle...
Yeah, Shift-On-The-Fly is nice.  The 231 4Hi is able to shift at 50-55MPH, IIRC.  nice feature so you don't have to rock back and forth to get it into gear.

Mine seems to be free of vibrations with the non CV front yoke.  The front DS was actually extended a bit, maybe about 1".

[sharpxmen]

Hmm, good to know.  I'll probably keep the stock skidplate for simplicity especially if it works without any modifications.  Would I want a CV 1310 front or just stick with the regular setup?  Not like it's really got an angle problem with the additional length.  I'm sure I'll need a 1310 CV for the rear though.  Actually I don't really need a MM lift if I have a CV joint at the rear.  Although it does allow me to go flat and still retain the stock angle...

there's no need for a CV in the front, the angles are just fine with mine and i have about 5'' of lift. You don't think you need a MM either with a cv rear d/s but i don't think will hurt, so if you have it might as well keep it (the Atlas 4speed or klune/blackbox and a D20 or 300 combo will result in a short rear d/s, in my case with just the d300 there is absolutely no problem, all my shaking and vibrations from a stop are gone once i got the CV rear d/s instead of the NP231 slip yoke crap).

Yeah, Shift-On-The-Fly is nice.  The 231 4Hi is able to shift at 50-55MPH, IIRC.  nice feature so you don't have to rock back and forth to get it into gear.

you can shift the front in Hi at that speed with the D300 as well, as long as the rear is in Hi and not in neutral, the syncro gears are used when shifting from Neutral to Hi or Lo , so problem is when you try to shift from hi to low or the other way around you go thru neutral you need to slow down (if not stop) to shift it, with the sychros the rotational speeds of the shafts will be equalized once you press the clutch, or if you're versed enough you could rev up the engine and try to match them. A syncro in the tcase won't be able to slow down or speed up the front axle output shaft if you have different tires or gear ratio, if these are the same then there's no problem, they are already spinning at the same speed if you're going straight. You don't need to rock back and forth either when shifting the D300, just release the clutch a tiny bit and will slide right in, same for 4Hi or 4Lo, but like i said not when rolling (i can shift it at about 3 to 5mph but nothing over that speed, tried once and it's noisy :)

I just remembered that the Blackbox does not have a 4:1 option which makes the combo with D300 short on ratio selections, otherwise i think it would be a fair alternative to the Atlas 4spd. Klune David is 4:1, but the combination is a bit longer than the blackbox (by about 2 or 3 inches if i remember correctly). If money is not an issue then Atlas is the way to go for sure.

[Jeffy]

Mine seems to be free of vibrations with the non CV front yoke.  The front DS was actually extended a bit, maybe about 1".

Are you using a stock shaft up front?

there's no need for a CV in the front, the angles are just fine with mine and i have about 5'' of lift. You don't think you need a MM either with a cv rear d/s but i don't think will hurt, so if you have it might as well keep it (the Atlas 4speed or klune/blackbox and a D20 or 300 combo will result in a short rear d/s, in my case with just the d300 there is absolutely no problem, all my shaking and vibrations from a stop are gone once i got the CV rear d/s instead of the NP231 slip yoke crap).

Well, the MM lift gives me the option to raise the transfer case up to gain more clearance but I don't really need more clearance, especially if I'm not crawling as much.  I'd probably run it as is and then see if I want to raise it up later.

If I was to get a Atlas 4.0, I'd have to figure out what the lead time is.  How long it will take to swap. How much fabrication if any is required and how much more will I need to spend on driveshafts.  I'll probably need $300 for at least the rear.  I need to research this some more and see if I can find some install posts.

[sharpxmen]

Are you using a stock shaft up front?
Well, the MM lift gives me the option to raise the transfer case up to gain more clearance but I don't really need more clearance, especially if I'm not crawling as much.  I'd probably run it as is and then see if I want to raise it up later.

unless you cut the floor i don't think there's much room to go up  (maybe 1'' or so and that's only if you keep the t-case clocked down on the drivers side) so i don' think you'd be willing to do that (just taking a wild guess here).

[Jeffy]

unless you cut the floor i don't think there's much room to go up  (maybe 1'' or so and that's only if you keep the t-case clocked down on the drivers side) so i don' think you'd be willing to do that (just taking a wild guess here).

I have a 1.25" body lift remember.  I'll probably jsut clock it close to stock though.  I don't want to have to reinvent the wheel.