Topic: Stop children what's that sound?

[sharpxmen]

I have a 1.25" body lift remember.  I'll probably jsut clock it close to stock though.  I don't want to have to reinvent the wheel.

i have a 1'' body lift, this is what it looks like (actually a bit higher with the skid installed, don't have a picture of that)


with the Atlas you can go another inch up probably since the VSS output is not up top like with the D300 flipped. it might work with a flat skid and a stepped transmission mount like the ones on the 6 cyl, i am thinking of doing that but for now it's fine (maybe when the 6spd adapter is ready).

[Jeffy]

i have a 1'' body lift, this is what it looks like (actually a bit higher with the skid installed, don't have a picture of that)


with the Atlas you can go another inch up probably since the VSS output is not up top like with the D300 flipped. it might work with a flat skid and a stepped transmission mount like the ones on the 6 cyl, i am thinking of doing that but for now it's fine (maybe when the 6spd adapter is ready).

Yeah, it looks pretty tight in there.  As long as it clears the stock skid plate and body, I'll be happy even with the stock plate.  The Jeep's not going to be a dedicated rock crawler so I can live with a few compromises.

neale or anyone else, how much of a difference was the yoke to pinion distance between the Atlas 4.0 and the NV231?  I'm wondering if I can use my stock driveshaft or not.

[FourbangerYJ]

Yeah, it looks pretty tight in there.  As long as it clears the stock skid plate and body, I'll be happy even with the stock plate.  The Jeep's not going to be a dedicated rock crawler so I can live with a few compromises.

neale or anyone else, how much of a difference was the yoke to pinion distance between the Atlas 4.0 and the NV231?  I'm wondering if I can use my stock driveshaft or not.

I think you are talking about the 4speed Atlas right? Not the 2 speed.

I would think the front would need to be made longer and since you don't have a CV shaft of the rear a new one made.

[Jeffy]

I think you are talking about the 4speed Atlas right? Not the 2 speed.

I would think the front would need to be made longer and since you don't have a CV shaft of the rear a new one made.

From the pics it doesn't look that much larger then a 231.  The 4:1 box looks a little larger then the planetary on the front of the 231.  The Atlas II doesn't have the planitary so it's a lot closer.

[sharpxmen]

i think the atlas 4 spd is 1'' shorter than the np231 with sye, the klune + D300 (or D20 like Scott's) is about the same length as the 231 if i remember correctly

you can't reuse the stock d/s since you'll need a cv one and you also need splines between the yokes to address the up/down movement of the axle (so that's a whole new d/s like he ^ said).

my d/s came to 21'' long between yokes (or 21.5, can't remember exactly, i had both lengths written down but dunno what it came to, I have 7'' travel splines so not really important), i think the klune is 6 or 7'' long, the atlas 4 spd is probably an extra 4'' compared to the D300 but i think they have the super short output (I have the long one due to the VSS gear) so depending of what you go with you're looking at a d/s between 15 and 18'' long from yoke to yoke.

[neale_rs]

Are you using a stock shaft up front?
Well, the MM lift gives me the option to raise the transfer case up to gain more clearance but I don't really need more clearance, especially if I'm not crawling as much.  I'd probably run it as is and then see if I want to raise it up later.

If I was to get a Atlas 4.0, I'd have to figure out what the lead time is.  How long it will take to swap. How much fabrication if any is required and how much more will I need to spend on driveshafts.  I'll probably need $300 for at least the rear.  I need to research this some more and see if I can find some install posts.

It is a new shaft (the old one had a lot of side to side play) but it is the same type as stock, single cardan.

I didn't find any install posts for Atlas 4 speeds in YJs, but you are better at finding stuff on the internet than me.

[neale_rs]

neale or anyone else, how much of a difference was the yoke to pinion distance between the Atlas 4.0 and the NV231?  I'm wondering if I can use my stock driveshaft or not.

The Atlas 4 speed (current redesigned version) is 18.8 inches long, about 2 inches longer than an NP231 with SYE.  This will give you a rear drive shaft about 2" longer than stock (with slip yoke).  It might be a bit much for the stock shaft.

[neale_rs]

Here is a pic of the Atlas 4 speed installed.  As you can see the vertical dimensions are pretty big, but the 1.25" body lift should make it pretty easy.

[Jeffy]

The Atlas 4 speed (current redesigned version) is 18.8 inches long, about 2 inches longer than an NP231 with SYE.  This will give you a rear drive shaft about 2" longer than stock (with slip yoke).  It might be a bit much for the stock shaft.

What about the front?  I'm not too worried about teh back since I'm going to have to get a CV driveshaft anyway.  Just wondering if I can get by with the stock front.

[neale_rs]

I never got the exact additional length that was added but I think it was about 1" or 1.5".  It is close.

[Jeffy]

I never got the exact additional length that was added but I think it was about 1" or 1.5".  It is close.

Hmm, that's what I thought.  It looked pretty close.  The Atlas 2 is a lot closer which would require having the front cut down but with the Atlas 4, it seems pretty close.

I'm also wondering about the shifter for the doubler.  Is there enough room or length to put it next to the two other sticks?  You mentioned putting it in front and running is L/R instead of fore/aft.  How about on the passenger side?  I have a console in the middle that I'd like to keep so running it in the middle isn't possible.  I've heard there is also an electronic solenoid available?

Oh and which tail housing did you get?  Standard or HD?

[sharpxmen]

I've heard there is also an electronic solenoid available?

if it has a neutral (not sure if it has for the doubler box or not) then you'd lose it with the solenoid. I would think that a pneumatic actuator would be better than the solenoid though (you have a york so that wouldn't be an issue in your case you can probably fab something easily), but would be the same regarding neutral (not that you really need it since you can have the front/rear shifters in neutral if needed).

[Jeffy]

if it has a neutral (not sure if it has for the doubler box or not) then you'd lose it with the solenoid. I would think that a pneumatic actuator would be better than the solenoid though (you have a york so that wouldn't be an issue in your case you can probably fab something easily), but would be the same regarding neutral (not that you really need it since you can have the front/rear shifters in neutral if needed).

Well, I don't need to make it overly complicated, either.     The doubler holds the 2.72:1 planetary.

[neale_rs]

Hmm, that's what I thought.  It looked pretty close.  The Atlas 2 is a lot closer which would require having the front cut down but with the Atlas 4, it seems pretty close.

I'm also wondering about the shifter for the doubler.  Is there enough room or length to put it next to the two other sticks?  You mentioned putting it in front and running is L/R instead of fore/aft.  How about on the passenger side?  I have a console in the middle that I'd like to keep so running it in the middle isn't possible.  I've heard there is also an electronic solenoid available?

Oh and which tail housing did you get?  Standard or HD?

I didn't want it in front of the other TC levers because I thought I might have to yank on it once in a while but it is actually very easy to move the lever.  It would probably work fine sideways in front of the other levers.  another possibility is to put it on the left side of the driver's seat.  The lever could be made so it is not as tall as the seat and probably wouldn´t be much in the way.  On the passenger side next to the tranny shifter, I don't think there is enough space there underneath but if you fab an angled mount you could put it over the floor near there.

I got the standard tailhousing so that the speedometer would work like stock.  If you get the short, you would need to figure out some other way to run your speedometer.  For the front output the 4 speed comes standard with the HD 32 spline output, the 2 speed has that as an option but it costs extra.

[Jeffy]

There seems to be an option for the HD tail housing that's a $245 option on the 4-speed.  Both have provisions for the speedometer gear.

Optioned out it's going to be $3,361.00 and $78.88 to ship it.  Pretty expensive piece.

• 11.70:1
• LHD
• 21 Spline
• HD Tailhousing
• Rear 1310 CV
• Front 1310 Non CV
• Shifter Universal